Yes another 2JZGTE

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

I am following these footsteps I have a lead on a w58 but not sure what year it is does it matter he said it was rebuilt two years ago and that its still in the supra and i can drive and test it then hell pull it out in a day.

[Laodicea]

I am following these footsteps I have a lead on a w58 but not sure what year it is does it matter he said it was rebuilt two years ago and that its still in the supra and i can drive and test it then hell pull it out in a day.

 

I suggest an r154...so it can handle the power...however the w58 is much easier to install and cheaper...so I won't argue. I dished out $800 for the r154 setup...not including the clutch.

[serpentkilla]

I am following these footsteps I have a lead on a w58 but not sure what year it is does it matter he said it was rebuilt two years ago and that its still in the supra and i can drive and test it then hell pull it out in a day.

 

Are you doing the 2jz swap also? If so, it depends on how you drive or your plans are for the car. If you drag race alot then i would say go for the r154 if not then the w58 is just fine. The w58 will go in with no cutting or banging also.

[pancake88]

how much cutting and bangging do you have to do with R154 trans

[serpentkilla]

how much cutting and bangging do you have to do with R154 trans

 

Check out out Matts thread, i think he has a pic of what he cut out and explained what he used the BFH on lol.

[AzStar]

I suggest an r154...so it can handle the power...however the w58 is much easier to install and cheaper...so I won't argue. I dished out $800 for the r154 setup...not including the clutch.

 

If I recall correctly you were going to try and retain your A/C. Did you manage to work out the install and keep the A/C?

[pancake88]

Check out out Matts thread, i think he has a pic of what he cut out and explained what he used the BFH on lol.

Thanks man i will check it out.

[Laodicea]

I hope I am not thread jacking...Yes I need to make my own 2JZ build thread but I don't want to put the other 2jz builds to shame..LOL...J/K.. moderators you can move to a new thread. Mind you I have no one helping in all this..I do all the work. Here is some banged/cut up tunnel of mine. I put smeared some black roofing polyurethane (tough stuff) over the holes I made and the rough edges (not shown in pics)

 

Yes I am keeping the A/C...The pics are not finished yet but you have to cut a notch in the brace (see pic) so the pulley will not hit. The condenser will go in front of radiator with about 1" space between. You have to move the intercooler ( I used stock) and cut re-tigged the inlets/outlets so it can mount straight...this gives you about 3-4 more inches of room between the radiator and the intercooler/bumper. You will have to make some custom hoses but you can use the supra/lexus fittings coming out of the compressor...not sure if I will use the conquest condenser...but it seems like an easy fit. Not worried too much about the A/C now cause it is cold outside...will make that a summer project. I just wanted to mount it in so the belt will go around the pulley.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01090.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01086.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01088.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01087.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01085.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00996.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00999.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00997.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01002.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01001.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01000.jpg

Edited December 16, 2009 by Laodicea

[AzStar]

Man,

 

You are getting it done! Please document the parts you use... heck... while you are there build TWO sets of motor mounts! : )

 

I really want to do this and it helps a TON if someone can spell out the way forward so I don't have to "learn" or "find" all the pitfalls.

 

How soon do you think you will done? I'm not above running over to Texas to check it out.

[Laodicea]

Did you get the tach to work?....I might need an aftermarket tach is not. I was told that going from a 4 cyl to 6 cyl that the tach will be 33% off. Edited December 17, 2009 by Laodicea

[serpentkilla]

Did you get the tach to work?....I might need an aftermarket tach is not. I was told that going from a 4 cyl to 6 cyl that the tach will be 33% off.

 

I heard that as well, thats why i left it alone. I'm using a proparts tach aka spek.

Edited December 17, 2009 by serpentkilla

[serpentkilla]

I hope I am not thread jacking...Yes I need to make my own 2JZ build thread but I don't want to put the other 2jz builds to shame..LOL...J/K.. moderators you can move to a new thread. Mind you I have no one helping in all this..I do all the work. Here is some banged/cut up tunnel of mine. I put smeared some black roofing polyurethane (tough stuff) over the holes I made and the rough edges (not shown in pics)

 

Yes I am keeping the A/C...The pics are not finished yet but you have to cut a notch in the brace (see pic) so the pulley will not hit. The condenser will go in front of radiator with about 1" space between. You have to move the intercooler ( I used stock) and cut re-tigged the inlets/outlets so it can mount straight...this gives you about 3-4 more inches of room between the radiator and the intercooler/bumper. You will have to make some custom hoses but you can use the supra/lexus fittings coming out of the compressor...not sure if I will use the conquest condenser...but it seems like an easy fit. Not worried too much about the A/C now cause it is cold outside...will make that a summer project. I just wanted to mount it in so the belt will go around the pulley.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01090.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01086.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01088.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01087.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01085.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00996.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00999.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00997.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01002.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01001.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01000.jpg

 

 

your not thread jacking at all, Lets try to make this as informative as possible for other folks wanting to do this. It's looks really nice so far, keep the pics coming i can just change the thread name

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

The Pictures are great. if i see correctly the tunnel is cut and then sheet metal sides are "stuck" on??

 

well aside from maybe three race events a season my car will be a street car. I was in the past looking for 400HP but i wish to double that( if the rear end holds).

 

that notch on the rail looks great do you think to box it would give it strength or is it not needed.

 

when I actually get the engine (a mid milage export from one of those jdm sites) should i wait or just rebuild it right off the bat? so far since this week end ive been doing all the reasearch i can on the 2jz.

 

In your opinion which is better keeping the twin turbo set up or one big turbo?

 

Do i have to also buy the stock ecu (im assuming the AEM unit takes the place of the ecu).

 

lastly I have a 3 inch manderal bent pipe with a cherry bomb at the tip from an old Quest i have. I assume ill have to get rid of the cherry bomb for a magnaflow or something.

 

thanks Serpent and Co. for paving the way for us.

[Laodicea]

The Pictures are great. if i see correctly the tunnel is cut and then sheet metal sides are "stuck" on??

No that sheet metal is what i left on there thinking I might be able to reuse those bolt holes.

 

well aside from maybe three race events a season my car will be a street car. I was in the past looking for 400HP but i wish to double that( if the rear end holds).

Rear end will not hold when launched... at 800hp?? no way

 

that notch on the rail looks great do you think to box it would give it strength or is it not needed.

I think it will hold fine without adding to it...we will see.

 

when I actually get the engine (a mid milage export from one of those jdm sites) should i wait or just rebuild it right off the bat? so far since this week end ive been doing all the reasearch i can on the 2jz.

You mean install first? then later rebuild? You can get away with not rebuilding...but how do you know really how good the engine is...mind you I have read about lots of NA-T (Naturally Aspirated -> Turbo) swaps at 100k miles and they seem to drive them fine at 450-550 hp...These are the 2jz-ge non-turbo version.

 

In your opinion which is better keeping the twin turbo set up or one big turbo?

Get rid of those twins and get a single...less weight...cleaner look....more power....spool almost the same...just plain Hawtness....what else? I may go with a 67mm for street.

 

Do i have to also buy the stock ecu (im assuming the AEM unit takes the place of the ecu).

ECU will come with the front engine clip....I bought the GE engine out of a Lexus GS300...for $200 and put the turbo pistons in it...some minor differences and the head flows more CFMs than the GTE motor unported!...They do have a distributor unlike the coil packs on the GTE making for aftermarket cams harder to find....but I need the dizzy for my setup.

 

lastly I have a 3 inch manderal bent pipe with a cherry bomb at the tip from an old Quest i have. I assume ill have to get rid of the cherry bomb for a magnaflow or something.

Up to you on that..

 

thanks Serpent and Co. for paving the way for us.

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

Thanks Lao,

 

 

update:: was diggin in my huge collection of Turbo magazine, S3 and Import tuner and found some interesting things. A supra pulling 1010HP ran this system AEM management, HKS 272 cams, surgetank intake,100mm throttle body, Greddy type R BOV, a HKS turbo (3240 I think but it makes no difference that thing was almost 3 grand lol )

 

obviously im not going to run 1000HP (but the notion does feel nice in my tummy lol) but the TB spec is what was interesting. The Surgetank... nessasary? and what size turbo would be ideal for 800hp?

 

Lastly lol, Lao what rear (dare i think it the supra rear too)

Edited December 17, 2009 by OBSESSIVE_ENT.

[Laodicea]

Thanks Lao,

 

 

update:: was diggin in my huge collection of Turbo magazine, S3 and Import tuner and found some interesting things. A supra pulling 1010HP ran this system AEM management, HKS 272 cams, surgetank intake,100mm throttle body, Greddy type R BOV, a HKS turbo (3240 I think but it makes no difference that thing was almost 3 grand lol )

 

obviously im not going to run 1000HP (but the notion does feel nice in my tummy lol) but the TB spec is what was interesting. The Surgetank... nessasary? and what size turbo would be ideal for 800hp?

 

Lastly lol, Lao what rear (dare i think it the supra rear too)

 

There is a "over 1000hp" thread here with like 40 or more people...Become a member...and read read read like I did.....or just talk to me...because I know now. You want a 76mm turbo to around 900hp...full boost may not hit til 5-5500rpm. A 67mm is a great street turbo for the 2jz. It is a very wierd feeling to read about someones build and they say at 80mph they can break the tires loose...

You can easily get 600hp on pump gas too....to much to say to little time.

 

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/index.php

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

thanks Lao ill read read read, before nagging you (if you dont mind email tag)

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

Lao what rad is that. I went to the autopwr site and only saw nissan stuff

[Laodicea]

Cause i got it on ebay.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=370264772497&view=all&tid=183351577024

 

prolly can't see

 

370264772497

 

Autopwr aluminum radiator TOYOTA SUPRA/SOARER 1986-1992

 

you are bidding on brand new radiator for TOYOTA SUPRA/SOARER 300CC MZ20 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992

 

Core size: 375*632*52mm

 

Overall size 465*660*61mm

 

Row: 2

 

 

MSN: asi-canada@hotmail.com

 

[Warranty]

 

- 1 Year Warranty Against Manufacturing Defect!

 

[Condition]

 

- 100% Brand New

 

- All genuine

[serpentkilla]

The Pictures are great. if i see correctly the tunnel is cut and then sheet metal sides are "stuck" on??

 

well aside from maybe three race events a season my car will be a street car. I was in the past looking for 400HP but i wish to double that( if the rear end holds).

 

that notch on the rail looks great do you think to box it would give it strength or is it not needed.

 

when I actually get the engine (a mid milage export from one of those jdm sites) should i wait or just rebuild it right off the bat? so far since this week end ive been doing all the reasearch i can on the 2jz.

 

In your opinion which is better keeping the twin turbo set up or one big turbo?

 

Do i have to also buy the stock ecu (im assuming the AEM unit takes the place of the ecu).

 

lastly I have a 3 inch manderal bent pipe with a cherry bomb at the tip from an old Quest i have. I assume ill have to get rid of the cherry bomb for a magnaflow or something.

 

thanks Serpent and Co. for paving the way for us.

 

 

It's up to you really if you want to rebuild the motor. I ran it the way it came to save money.

 

Keeping the stock turbo, again this comes down to money. If you have the money then drop em an slap a single on there. I'm gonna keep mine until they start to smoke, then i will replace them.

 

You can keep your cherry bomb if you like the way it sounds, it will sound alot better with this motor. I kept my aero chamber and i love the sound.

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

Economic wisdom is the key Serpent thanks. It makes sense though, shake it down and get used to it before going nuts.

 

Lao instead of three bars to support the Rad on the bottom, what if i make it one wide "L" bracket? I know you will say its a personal choice but im asking because is that an ara that dosent need the bulkyness of that type of bracket (I dont kno Jack about structure) also had a thought to use the oil coolers from my 89 in addition to the relocated oil cooler in the nose. Annnnnnnnnnnnd maybe a c02 spray on the stock intercooler (if i dont need the bigger one, lol besides where is that gona fit)

 

point of information is all. if reply just sound like i am babbleing forive my excitement. if its not needed for the post you could just snip this reply

 

[Laodicea]

The reason I used the 3/8" T6061 is because I had a 6' rod of it and it is cheap for me to get and strong....and so I could tap/thread a place for that leg you see on the front of it that goes strait up to support the hood latch. I can also tap/thread on the bottom of it for the p/s cooler or the oil cooler(still not sure where I want that). That Z brace for the radiator when bolted on will make the stock sheet metal radiator support flex in turn causing the Z brace to flex about 1/2" if you force it up and down. So the radiator, full of fluid and going over bumps in the road, may over time start to sag the brace. To fix that I made the hood brace leg I put on there to actually put a tention on it(the hood brace is a little longer so I have to push the Z brace down and hold under pressure in order to thread those bolts in) thus done to keep it from flexing. A 1/8" x 2" steel strip welded to the underside of that stock cross radiator support would have solved that, but I can't Tig weld upside down on something that thin...my skills are limited.....now a Mig welder I can do all day long upside down...but all I have is a Tig welder.

 

I am starting my build thread today....brought to you by http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/Mad_Dax_Modsico.jpg watch for it.

Edited December 18, 2009 by Laodicea

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

Lao hot progress.

 

check it out I kno i have to relocate the oil cooler but where? i was thinking of by the fog light hole in the skirt like the 89 has for its transmition coolers?

[serpentkilla]

Lao hot progress.

 

check it out I kno i have to relocate the oil cooler but where? i was thinking of by the fog light hole in the skirt like the 89 has for its transmition coolers?

 

 

Are you using an auto if not your not then u dont need the oild cooler. The oil is cooled from the coolant, it runs at the base of the oil filter housing.

[JustPaus_88TSi]

Are you using an auto if not your not then u dont need the oild cooler. The oil is cooled from the coolant, it runs at the base of the oil filter housing.

 

 

Oh god..

 

A bar and plate type oil cooler is far better than the craptastic OEM "cooler" integrated into the oil filter housing. Not to mention the added oil capacity. Just using a remote filter setup with 30" lines will give you 7qts, and it'll be close to 9qts if you add the front mount cooler.

 

 

Check supraforums, those things are often tossed out or used in conjunction with front mount coolers.