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Yes another 2JZGTE


serpentkilla
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I've thought about this some... perhaps too much. It would seem that when a bar is designed for a car, many things play into the correct ratio etc. The location of the frame mounts with respect to the lower A arms etc. all have an effect. I just have to believe that to just "drop it" would change the equation significantly. What the end result of that change is, who knows, but I don't think it would be the same as stock.

 

I drove one of these with out one and with.. The one with out seemed really loose compared to the one with it.

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I would expect there would be a different feel. I could speak about driving a 67 Fairlane with and without and really feeling a difference but that is apples and oranges.

 

Not saying just lowering the bar won't work, but I just wonder what difference that really makes on the design. I guess we need a suspension engineer type to answer that.

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<img src="http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s285/pgoombay/DSCN0972.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />

 

 

Does the control arm adjuster/brace that is bolted to the frame down under the radiator interfere with the outlet pipe? Or is the outlet far enough to the right to miss the bracket? Reason is I have a chevy 19x26 aluminum rad. but the outlet is as you may have seen is on the tank on the left and even up about 2 inches from the bottom of the radiator...so i think I need to get the style you have or tig a 90 degree to the bottom of the radiator tank and try to clear that bracket. I actually want to take those bracket/bars off.....bad idea right?

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Does the control arm adjuster/brace that is bolted to the frame down under the radiator interfere with the outlet pipe? Or is the outlet far enough to the right to miss the bracket? Reason is I have a chevy 19x26 aluminum rad. but the outlet is as you may have seen is on the tank on the left and even up about 2 inches from the bottom of the radiator...so i think I need to get the style you have or tig a 90 degree to the bottom of the radiator tank and try to clear that bracket. I actually want to take those bracket/bars off.....bad idea right?

 

The radiator i got is for the actual supra, i have a link posted on the first page. the way it sits it's not in the way of the bracket. You would have to put the rad in to check for fitment, yes very bad idea to take those brackets of

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I took the car out to get it inspected in pa today. I was kinda nervous being that this was my first major drive. It was almost an hour drive to get there, Everything was beautiful no issues. After that i drove to proparts in md to get my guages software updated, that was another hour to get there and another to get back home. The car runs and sound like a dream i'm so excited, i kept on looking in the rear veiw mirror for white or blue smoke like the last motorsssssss i'm still paranoid. Everything is all good, oh i still need a clutch and that should be it for now. I aint doing shyt else, i'm just gonna drive and maintain for now until i get the money to get it painted.
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I took the car out to get it inspected in pa today. I was kinda nervous being that this was my first major drive. It was almost an hour drive to get there, Everything was beautiful no issues. After that i drove to proparts in md to get my guages software updated, that was another hour to get there and another to get back home. The car runs and sound like a dream i'm so excited, i kept on looking in the rear veiw mirror for white or blue smoke like the last motorsssssss i'm still paranoid. Everything is all good, oh i still need a clutch and that should be it for now. I aint doing shyt else, i'm just gonna drive and maintain for now until i get the money to get it painted.

 

 

Serpent,

 

Ok.. for the electrical hookups...

 

The ECU gets its power through the engine harness and all that is necessary is to make sure the alternator/starter are connected to the battery or was it more complex than that? Did you have a wiring schematic to tell you where these connections went?

 

Is it possible to use the factory gauges in the car with this setup?

 

Does any of this effect the factory HVAC (short of the A/C which you say you didn't use?)

 

Did you actually relocate the sway bar?

 

Do you have drawings or such for the motor mounts that you made?

 

This whole idea is keeping me awake nights......

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Serpent,

 

Ok.. for the electrical hookups...

 

The ECU gets its power through the engine harness and all that is necessary is to make sure the alternator/starter are connected to the battery or was it more complex than that? Did you have a wiring schematic to tell you where these connections went?

 

Is it possible to use the factory gauges in the car with this setup?

 

Does any of this effect the factory HVAC (short of the A/C which you say you didn't use?)

 

Did you actually relocate the sway bar?

 

Do you have drawings or such for the motor mounts that you made?

 

This whole idea is keeping me awake nights......

 

When u get to the point of hooking up the ecu let me know and i can tell u exactly which wires u need

I would say yes u can use the factory guages, the speedo will work cuz the stock cable fits the supra tranny, the tach you might need a tach adapter to get that to work, and all the others u just have to wire them accordinally.

You do not have to relocate the sway bar.

The motor mounts were made from the stock brackets and a 4X8 plate of steel.

The only way i see you keeping your ac is to cut the fire wall so the engine sits further back. That way u can leave the rad and everything else in the front of the motor.

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When u get to the point of hooking up the ecu let me know and i can tell u exactly which wires u need

I would say yes u can use the factory guages, the speedo will work cuz the stock cable fits the supra tranny, the tach you might need a tach adapter to get that to work, and all the others u just have to wire them accordinally.

You do not have to relocate the sway bar.

The motor mounts were made from the stock brackets and a 4X8 plate of steel.

The only way i see you keeping your ac is to cut the fire wall so the engine sits further back. That way u can leave the rad and everything else in the front of the motor.

I'll post some pics of the exact dimensions of the motor mounts.

 

You don't need to move the engine back to fit the A/C. You do need to cut a notch out of the brace taht goes from the lower control arm to the bottom of the radiator support so the pulley wont hit on the a/c compressor. I am actually modding up the front bumper and taking about 1 1/2 inches off the back so the intercooler will scoot forward more along with opening up the intercooler opening like Burton shows on some of his cars he did. That gives me 10 1/2 inches from the back of the bumper to the radiator support. So 3.5" for radiator 1" for condensor, 3" for intercooler = 7.5" with 3 to spare. I'll put some pics of it up too...with what I will cut out of the bumper...doing that in the next few days.

 

The sway bar just needs to be dropped down about what 2-3" with spacers under where it mounts to the rails. The bolt mounts on the lower control arm can actually be shortened as well. Mine stands about 4" with long bolts. If I have to i can get shorter bolts and cut the bushing spacer about 2-3" so when the spacers at the rails are in it won't be tweaked down so far. So basically it will have stock location but just dropped 2-3" at all 4 mounting locations. I say 2-3" because I have not fit it yet to see what will actually be the best drop of inches to lower it to.

Edited by Laodicea
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When u get to the point of hooking up the ecu let me know and i can tell u exactly which wires u need

I would say yes u can use the factory guages, the speedo will work cuz the stock cable fits the supra tranny, the tach you might need a tach adapter to get that to work,

 

I found the perfect tach adaptor and its cheap I plan on using it with my swap. Still trying to sort out the speedo because my trans has electronic speed sensor and no cable hookup.

Tach adaptor info: http://tunertools.com/proddetail.asp?prod=GZM-G0903

post-2990-125476357354_thumb.jpg

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The radiator i got is for the actual supra, i have a link posted on the first page. the way it sits it's not in the way of the bracket. You would have to put the rad in to check for fitment, yes very bad idea to take those brackets of

man the link doesn't tell me anything...what brand is it? How much?...I'll look for a similar one..who sold it to you?

Edited by Laodicea
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Do these motors come with a MAF? I see some vendors state NO MAF in their adds and others don't mention a MAF at all (either in the parts list or state it isn't included).

 

If it doesn't come with a MAF where do you source one and what is the cost?

 

Tks

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Do these motors come with a MAF? I see some vendors state NO MAF in their adds and others don't mention a MAF at all (either in the parts list or state it isn't included).

 

If it doesn't come with a MAF where do you source one and what is the cost?

 

Tks

 

The jdm motors are map and the usdm are maf.

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  • 1 month later...
Just an update, the car is running great still. The issues i've had was the power steering hose, and bad clutch. The motor has about 2k miles on it now, iv'e ran the s*** outta this thing and it just sits there with it's legs open wanting more lol. My temps are between 195 to 205, this is with flogging the crap out of it. I can drive this car everyday, beleive it or not with the same exhaust set up it is actually quiter than the g54b. The car starts everyday with no probs, all my fears of breaking down on 83 are gone lmao. I'm in the process of changing the clutch, i will prob go with the stage 4 competition clutch. I took the tranny out today, i also fixed the reverse. The problem was when i change the shifter from an external to internal, the shift fork from the donor tranny i used was wrong. i was supposed to use the stock one, i think i was drinking when i read that post anyways i put the stock one back in and bam i got reverse. I'm gonna leave it stock for now until i kill the turbo's prob, i'm having so much fun with this right now it's amazing. I will redo the guage cluster over the winter and hopefully next year sometime i will have some extra cheese to get it painted.
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Serpentkiller....I did not need to see this thread...lol. My quest has been sitting for quite sometime. About a year ago I bought a G54b from a guy for $400 and when I installed the thing about a month later the thing had a knock. So my poor quest is still sitting in the garage. After reading what youve done here, has made my mind up about what Im going to do now. This looks like a lot of fun and Im the same way about the reliabilty part. Im tired of worrying about this thing breaking down on me. Ready to just be able to jump in and go. Where is the best place to get one of these motor/tran combo??? Where did you get the drive shaft for it??? And what rear end are you runnning???

 

Nice build man....

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Serpentkiller....I did not need to see this thread...lol. My quest has been sitting for quite sometime. About a year ago I bought a G54b from a guy for $400 and when I installed the thing about a month later the thing had a knock. So my poor quest is still sitting in the garage. After reading what youve done here, has made my mind up about what Im going to do now. This looks like a lot of fun and Im the same way about the reliabilty part. Im tired of worrying about this thing breaking down on me. Ready to just be able to jump in and go. Where is the best place to get one of these motor/tran combo??? Where did you get the drive shaft for it??? And what rear end are you runnning???

 

Nice build man....

 

 

I got the motor from jdm planet, those guys are straight up and they ship fast. I got the drive shaft done at a pace in md call A1 drive shaft, i took the measurement when everything was all done then took the stock driveshaft in for the to cut to lenght and balanced. It was $200 to get done, it prob would have been cheaper if i had the correct yoke. Im still using the stock rear. the stock rears are pretty strong, it's the half shafts u have to look out for. I say go for it mon, u will not regret it. I just love that i can just hop in this, start it up on the first try and drive it where ever.

http://shop.ebay.com/jdm_planet/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

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Another update, i replaced the stock clutch with a competition clutch stage 4. The clutch pedal feels lighter thank stock beleive it or not, but the car haul a** with the stock clutch slipping an all. This thing hauls arse, i have an even bigger smile on my face. Need to get it on the dyno to see where i'm at, i want to take it to the track but i don't have time for crap right now. oh i also have reverse now lol.

post-8271-1259355032_thumb.gif

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Another update, i replaced the stock clutch with a competition clutch stage 4. The clutch pedal feels lighter thank stock beleive it or not, but the car haul a** with the stock clutch slipping an all. This thing hauls arse, i have an even bigger smile on my face. Need to get it on the dyno to see where i'm at, i want to take it to the track but i don't have time for crap right now. oh i also have reverse now lol.

 

 

 

congrats yet again man , looks like you're happy with everything at last . Get some good pictures up when you have some time .

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congrats yet again man , looks like you're happy with everything at last . Get some good pictures up when you have some time .

 

Thanks mon, i am extremely happy. It just feels weird now that i'm not fixing something everyday like with the stock motor. I need to find something else to do. I'm gonna get some real good pics with an slr camera. My next big deal will be to get the body done and paint done. I'm having a hard time trying to figure out which color i want to go with. back with the white, black, silver or figi.

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Thanks mon, i am extremely happy. It just feels weird now that i'm not fixing something everyday like with the stock motor. I need to find something else to do. I'm gonna get some real good pics with an slr camera. My next big deal will be to get the body done and paint done. I'm having a hard time trying to figure out which color i want to go with. back with the white, black, silver or figi.

 

 

I'm dong my car the other way - I did the body first and now I'm about to start on the motor . I hope to get paint on the car before X-mas , lets see how that goes - I've said that about 20 times already this pass year ! lol

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I'm dong my car the other way - I did the body first and now I'm about to start on the motor . I hope to get paint on the car before X-mas , lets see how that goes - I've said that about 20 times already this pass year ! lol

 

What color are u going with? just be real careful doing your motor works after painting the body.

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What color are u going with? just be real careful doing your motor works after painting the body.

 

 

I'm going with a shade of green , its kinda dark and looks grey at night . I'm used to working on nice cars with perfect paint and not damaging them . I expect to soon (at last ) post pictures of the car painted .

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