pittynin Posted September 8, 2003 Report Share Posted September 8, 2003 actually its a commen problem with almost every car you just dont notice it.... its nothing big as long as you are running more the 12 volts at 2k+ rpms or 10 volts at idle with full load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted September 8, 2003 Report Share Posted September 8, 2003 Did ya ever notice that it won't do it when you turn on the hazard flashers? Tim P.S. Now you can be sure that it's funny wiring.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickyturboic Posted September 20, 2003 Report Share Posted September 20, 2003 My 86 dont do the up/down on the voltmeter because it uses a diferent gauge setup, but it does stops blinking at idle, an it charges -/+ 12.3v at idle with head lights, fog lights and radio on, mi guess is that the alt is too damn weak for all the amps draining the batery, because I replaced my (+) cable from the alt (8gauge), and I grounded all the car (about five 8gauge) all aroud the engine compartment, and still have the same problem; even my radio makes a humming sound when it reaches 12.1v at idling! > Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VenomV8Quest Posted September 20, 2003 Report Share Posted September 20, 2003 good topic! mine is doing the same thing and i have the autometer gauges.i thought the damn thing was trying to blow up kinda funky watching it doing the jig with the blinkers ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totiturbo Posted October 1, 2003 Report Share Posted October 1, 2003 CHANGE YOUR ALTERNATOR BELT PREFERABLY FROM DEALESHIP.... COOL? THEN CLEAN OUT YOU ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS ON UR BATTERY... IT MIGHT NOT SOLVE IT .. BUT UR NEIGHBORS WILL RESPECT YOUR LOYALTY/ ;D ;D ;D SINCE I FIGURED YOU'VE ALREADY CHEKED THE ALTERNATOR AN STUFF/// Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distorted.Clarity Posted October 1, 2003 Report Share Posted October 1, 2003 What electronic Blinker should we get to switch to, where from, part number? Instructions on setting it up? when switching to led lights what are the part numbers to get and are there any other things needed to be done to switch to them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Posted October 1, 2003 Report Share Posted October 1, 2003 I believe the reason why newer cars don't do this is probably because the designed the gauge with a low-pass filter. Just Guessing... Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MANGO Posted January 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2004 Ok, forget about the volt meter dipping during signaling, it seems it now dips a good tick mark lower when I'm at idle. When the car's rolling and the engine revving, the meter reads at the tick mark before the highest (fully charged) tick mark. You know how there are two marks in between the half mark and the fully charged mark? Well, during driving, the needle is at that mark before fully charged. When I'm idling, the needle would dip down to the mark that's right after 1/2 on the meter. Any cure to this? Is this a loose alternator belt that's causing this? Thanks MANGO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indy_85stariones Posted January 19, 2004 Report Share Posted January 19, 2004 Reposted from... http://www.starquestclub.com/index.pl?boar...;num=1068917617 mikec Cypress California Re: Flashing volts meter with blinker...diode?? « Reply #1 on: 11/16/03 at 00:22:30 » The real problem is the LONG wires from the IGN fusible link to the ignition key center post. The ON position then runs to the fusebox and back to the engine bay. It feeds the engine fans, dash voltmeter, turn signals, rear defroster, and lots of other stuff. And it also feeds the alternator's field coils. The wire from the IGN link to the key degrades with time and gets too much resistance. Thus the voltmeter drops when the fans run (high load), turn signals (high load), or rear defroster is on. A few things can be done to minimize the effects: 1. Add a few relays that get switched ON by the key. These relays then in turn feed power to the fans and turn signals. This gets the high loads off the bad wire. 2. the real fix: replace the beefy wire from the IGN link output post to the ignition key center position. To see what effect this would have on your car, do this simple test: pop the cover off the bottom of the steering column so you can get to the ign switch. With the key out, use a voltmeter to ID the power feed wire to the ignition key center position. If I remember correctly it's a pretty beefy black wire. Look for battery voltage while the key is out. Run a jumper wire from the IGN fusible link output side (output pins are the row closer to engine) to this point. Start and drive normally, watching your voltmeter. Hit the turn signals. Just sitting in my driveway with the engine idling I chopped the turn signal "dance" to about a quarter of what it used to be this way. I'd bet running another wire from the ignition key ON output post to the fusebox input post would help a bit more; running wires from the fuse box output posts to the alternator and to the fans (actually to the switch contacts of the fan relays) would cure the rest. Another test you can try in the driveway: with the engine running, turn on the turn signals. Watch the dash voltmeter and see the high & low voltage readings. Now take a voltmeter and hook it to the battery. Bet you'll see very little change in readings; most of the time the battery voltage will be the same as the dash voltmeter's high reading. The dash voltmeter low reading typically doesn't reflect the actual voltage at the battery. I wonder where he'd suggest putting the diode. "Inline" with what? All a diode does is block the flow of electricity in one direction. Power going to the voltmeter always flows in one direction so adding a diode there wouldn't help. A side effect of a diode is a small voltage drop (approx 0.2 volts for germanium diodes - nobody uses these anymore, approx 0.6 to 0.7 volts for silicon diodes) across the diode. You could put a diode inline with the alternator's voltage sense wire which would effectively raise the alternator output voltage 0.7 volts. But the dancing would still be present on the voltmeter... it'd just dance 0.7 volts further up the scale. mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_Xian_Wu Posted January 26, 2004 Report Share Posted January 26, 2004 does anyone have a part number for the electronic flasher? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestPilot Posted January 27, 2004 Report Share Posted January 27, 2004 It's an EL-12 - you can find one at just about any car-parts store... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_Xian_Wu Posted January 27, 2004 Report Share Posted January 27, 2004 ok cool. i've never replaced one before (as i've never had one go bad in previous cars). thx for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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