fastquest Posted September 2, 2002 Report Share Posted September 2, 2002 I figured it out and now can give you specific instructions on how to wire your fog lamps to work with parking lights on, they will work normally with the switch while just  the parking lights are on or the headlamps are on, or both, but still retain the saftey feature of going off when you put the high beams on. I removed the factory low amperage relay and replced it with a bosch 30/40 amp relay, this will allow you upgrade the stock 35 watt bulbs to the new H-3 plasma type high wattage colored bulbs without a meltdown.  Locate the factory relay, it is mounted on the pass inner fender next to the air canister by itself below two relays mounted together. All three relays look the same and have rubber weather sheilds over them. Unscrew the single screw holding the top 2 relays and move them aside now you find the relay you need by itself with 1 screw, unscrew it and pull it upward as far as you can, you may need to cut some wrapped tape to get more slack.  You will see 4 wires,  a 16 gauge green 12volt supply wire-      a 16 gauge red with white stripe, gos to lamps-   a thin 20 gauge red with stripe/ neg. trip from fog light switch /  and  a red 18 gauge 12volt constant wire.   The only wires I used out of the 4 were the thin red with stripe switch wire and the thick red with white stripe  lamp wire.  The Bosch relay wiring gos as follows - Thin  red to pin 85/  thick red with white to pin 87 /  Run a 10 gauge from pin 30 to battery using a 20 amp fuse at batt. /  remove fog lamp assem.  below where your'e working and look on backside and find a thin 20 gauge green with/ white stripe,  this is parking light 12 volts, tap into this wire and run it up to the relay, you may need to make a snake out of a coat hanger. Once you  get the wire up there, connect it to pin 86 of the bosch relay and then mount it to the same location using the same screw you removed. Make sure to tape off the 2 wires you didn't use, for they are still live sometimes. Actually the wrong times! Now you are in business! This job was alot easier than I made it seem. Message me with any questions and I will get back to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dmaximum Posted September 11, 2002 Report Share Posted September 11, 2002 Great Job I love this site...and the info you guys and gals provide is really out of this world. if you have some pics that would be great, if not well, your instructions is very well done. D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88BlueTSiquest Posted October 12, 2002 Report Share Posted October 12, 2002 I just got done doing this mod myself, I had to as my factory relay died. The only thing I'll add, is it's not necessary to run a wire to the battery, unless you plan on going with higher wattage bulbs in the future, you can use the factory power wire for stock sized bulbs to drive the relay. The Green/White wire can be found in the thick harness above the air filter, behind the passenger headlight. It's the same harness that the relay for the Fog lights is coming out of. Just take a razor blade, slice the tape open(I removed that blue tag, and cut behind where the tag was). Seperate the wiring, I found 2 Green/White's buried behind the ~10 or so Black wires. Test them, but the thicker of the 2 Green/White's tested as parking lights on my car. You can tap on to the proper wire, and wrap the harness back up in electrical tape to keep it looking factory, then all you need is about a 1foot run of parking light wire to make it to the relay. As Fastquest stated, the fog lights do shut off with the high beams, and the flash-to-pass still operates. If you've got a good working relay, and want to do this mod without replacing the relay. Then simply cut the green wire at the factory relay, cap off the side going to the harness, and run the relay side of the Green wire to the Green/White either at the parking lights as Fast stated, or to the harness like I found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted October 21, 2002 Report Share Posted October 21, 2002 Thanks, guys!!! I opted for the lazy man's way, simply cutting the green at the relay and running a wire from the relay side of the green wire to the parking light feed wire. I tapped into that wire behind the parking/fog/turn signal connector just in case I have to replace the entire assembly. But, it worked like a champ! One thing though. I don't think my foglights cut off when I hit the high beams anymore. I really could care less, though. Here in Houston, when I hit my highs, I want all the light I can get. When it's foggy, I would rather it be this way, since I typically turn off my headlights anyway. The last couple of times that it has gotten really thick, the only way you can see without foglights is to turn on your hazard flashers. My optical hornflash-to-pass dealie still works, though. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88BlueTSiquest Posted October 22, 2002 Report Share Posted October 22, 2002 Thanks, guys!!! I opted for the lazy man's way, simply cutting the green at the relay and running a wire from the relay side of the green wire to the parking light feed wire. Â I tapped into that wire behind the parking/fog/turn signal connector just in case I have to replace the entire assembly. Â But, it worked like a champ! Â One thing though. Â I don't think my foglights cut off when I hit the high beams anymore. Â I really could care less, though. Â Here in Houston, when I hit my highs, I want all the light I can get. Â When it's foggy, I would rather it be this way, since I typically turn off my headlights anyway. Â The last couple of times that it has gotten really thick, the only way you can see without foglights is to turn on your hazard flashers. Â My optical hornflash-to-pass dealie still works, though. Tim Being an 88 model like mine, I bet they do. You can test it sitting in a parking lot, just turn the your key to run, and turn on your headlights, run and check to make sure all lights are on, then go hit the Hi-beam switch, and check again. My Driving lights shut off with the hi-beams, which is actually a good thing. As some states have laws against using both Hi-beams and the Driving lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted October 30, 2002 Report Share Posted October 30, 2002 Well, you're right! I checked it the other night, and they go out when I hit the highs. No big deal. I figured that since I tapped off of the park light signal wire, that they would work whenever the park lamps are on. I guess the park lamps go out when you hit the high beams as well. Oh well, who cares? It works and looks killer. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88BlueTSiquest Posted November 6, 2002 Report Share Posted November 6, 2002 Well, you're right! Â I checked it the other night, and they go out when I hit the highs. Â No big deal. Â I figured that since I tapped off of the park light signal wire, that they would work whenever the park lamps are on. Â I guess the park lamps go out when you hit the high beams as well. Â Oh well, who cares? Â It works and looks killer. Tim Actually, no The parking lights stay hot and operate at all times whether high beams or low beams are on. It's the other wire, the thin red/striped wire that goes negative with the parking lights and low beams are on(and the driving light switch is on), then it either goes hot or open when high beams are switched on. If you want the driving lights to work regardless of the high/low switch, you'll have to find another source at the driving light switch itself. I believe Lizzord has some instructions on bypassing the hi/low portion of the driving lights, but to me, it's not worth the effort, I like them the way they are ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted November 6, 2002 Report Share Posted November 6, 2002 Well, the desired effect has been reached, and I ain't jackin' with it. Truth be told, overloaded circuits make me nervous. I once wired a CB, a mobile phone, and a scanner to the ACRSY fuse in an Oldsmobile that I had. The resultant car-be-que was nothing less than spectacular. Marshmallows and weiners anyone?? Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver_Bullet Posted November 7, 2002 Report Share Posted November 7, 2002 I just installed the AIC Halogen H4 Diamond headlight assy. along with the H4 bulbs. Â Part # 40.3654.HL It was easy and straightforward - and they look great. The hardest part with the assembly was removing the retaining spring screw/washer combo and then reinstalling it along with the rubber boot over the connector base of the H4 bulb. Â The bulb connectors hook right up to the stock connector plug assembly. Both low and high beams work along with my fog light mod (they still go out when I hit the high beams). Â I did notice right away tonight that my stock fog light bulbs are much easier to see illuminating the road with the H4 bulbs and I am unsure whether the H4's are really better than the stockers. Â The hardest part was removing the rusted stock bezel screws - some PB Blaster took care of that, thankfully. Â I also bought the H3 Extreme White bulbs for the fog lights. Â Part # 15255 But earlier today I found out I shouldn't run them without also hooking up a Bosch relay. Â The guy that convinced me to buy them owns a Conquest, but failed to mention that little tidbit! Â So doing a little research saved my Starion some possible damage. Should I now consider upgrading my stock alternator??? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88BlueTSiquest Posted November 7, 2002 Report Share Posted November 7, 2002 Should I now consider upgrading my stock alternator??? Thanks Considering the stock alternator can barely sustain the car in stock form, I'd say sure. Definately you will want to if you plan on adding any amplifiers or other electrical equipment to the car later on down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver_Bullet Posted November 7, 2002 Report Share Posted November 7, 2002 Considering the stock alternator can barely sustain the car in stock form, I'd say sure. Definately you will want to if you plan on adding any amplifiers or other electrical equipment to the car later on down the road. Jack, any suggestions on an alternator I can pick up at a local auto parts store that is a direct bolt on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88BlueTSiquest Posted November 7, 2002 Report Share Posted November 7, 2002 That I don't know, I had plans of having an alternator re-wound at a local repair shop. I know Tim_C sells some alternators that are a bolt-on 110amp setup, check out the FAQ section, maybe he's got a model number and or information about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted November 8, 2002 Report Share Posted November 8, 2002 I think I read somewhere on here that a '90 or '91 Hyundai Sonata V-6 alternator gives the desired amperage and bolts right up, but don't quote me on this. I do know that the alternator from other cars is interchangeable with ours, and gives the upgrade. It's on here somewhere. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver_Bullet Posted November 9, 2002 Report Share Posted November 9, 2002 I did a search for alternators using the part # database, but came up with nothing referencing other models available for the Starion. Next I will try to search the posts to see what I can find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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