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speakers Pn for indash


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any 5 1/4 speakers work in there.

here is what you do.

 

take out the old asambly along with the metal bracket.

then take the nuts you took out from the metal and save them.

put up your new speaker and bolt only the speaker in.

yes you will leave out the bracket.

 

easy way to get to the speakers is drop the glove box (it swings all the way down just have to push in 2 stoppers.)

you can pull out the hoses that are for the vents there not realy attached with anything just side on eachother.

the other side you just take off the panle and your good to go.

 

get after market speakers. look for high wattage and for low and high khz and hz, other wise your going to get nasty sound from it when you turn it up

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you want high kHz and low Hz

 

Most speakers are advertised with 2 wattages.. RMS and peak... can someone explain the differences to me?

 

What is a good sub $50 each speaker for the front and likewise for the back... Im not using an amp, but I want the speakers to be able to handle all my head can give... 22 watts RMS/45 peak x 4 (Aiwa CDC-MP3)

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You have to pull the dash to get to the driverside dash speaker and it is only a 3.5" speaker, the pass side one is a 5.25".  That never made sence to me.  I mounted my tweaters for my MB Quart 5.25" components where the original dash speakers went in my first starion.  THe woofers were in the stock location in the doors.

 

kev

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Hmmmm, most of my good posts are at:

http://mark.inetcor.com/forum/

 

But their server is down.  Hopefully, they will revive the site soon.

 

Fortunately, I copied most of my posts at:

http://www.tristarion.com/phpBB2/viewtopic...&highlight=

 

Replacing Dash Speakers...

 

Passenger Side:

1) Remove contents from glove box. Open glove box door fully, by depressing

the sides of the glove box. The door stops will clear the sides of the

door opening.

2) Remove screw connecting air heating vent to dash.

3) Remove air heating duct.

4) The speaker is now exposed.

5) Remove two nuts that hold the speaker. I used a 1/4" rachet, extension,

and 5/16" deep well socket. Also, the socket and extension will slide

thru the nickel-sized diameter hole in dash support.

6) OEM Speaker is 5 1/4" dual cone -- thin.

 

 

Driver's side:

1) Ask wife to spend the weekend with her family -- take the kids. Patience

is required.

2) Disconnect battery -- good idea when tinkering with wiring harnesses.

No shorts equals no blown fuses.

3) Remove the cowling over the instrument cluster -- four screw -- two

in top -- a screw below each light switch cluster.

4) Disconnect left hand switches from wiring harness.

5) Disconnect right hand switches from wiring harness.

6) Remove screws holding instrument cluster.

7) Disconnect speedometer cable.

Disconnect first large white connector from wiring harness. Depress

the taps on each side.

9) Disconnect second large white connector from wiring harness.

Driver's side dash speaker continued:

10) Remove four screws holding fuse box to dash.

11) Carefully, remove panel on left side of dash -- next to door and

above kick panel by prying gently with screwdriver.

12) Loosen two screws on left side of dash.

13) Remove screw connecting air heating vent to dash.

14) Remove air heating duct laying across top of opening for instrument

cluster. Remove screws from step 12, if necessary. Also, the cover of

small vent can be removed by pressing tab on left side. Remove screw,

if necessary.

15) Remove screw that was hidden behind air heating duct that holds air

heating vent -- rear piece -- to dash supports.

16) Slide air heating vent -- rear piece -- towards floor and remove.

17) Remove tab of lever for refresh air on air heating vent.

1 Remove air heating vent -- front piece -- by gently moving vent towards

vacated space from step 16.

19) The speaker is now exposed.

20) Remove two nuts that hold the speaker. I used a 5/16" deep well

socket. Also, one of the nuts is used as fastener to a support bracket

for a small air duct.

21) OEM speaker is 4" dual cone -- very thin -- two tabs. Replacement speaker must be less than 1 7/16" in depth. I used 3 1/2" Pioneer TS-877. However, my fresh air vent whistles when I try to close it.

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For those with 87-89 stereo wiring...

The door and dash speakers are connected parallel.  That is, 8 ohm door speakers connected parallel to 8 ohm dash speakers which yields 4 ohms of resistance at your radio.  If you replace with 4 ohm aftermarket speakers, then you have only 2 ohms of resistance which will damage most radios.

 

For those with 83-85 stereo wiring...

The door and dash speakers are connected serial.  That is, 4 ohm door speakers connected serial to 4 ohm dash speakers which yields 8 ohms of resistance at your radio.  8 ohms of resistance will not harm your radio.

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