Toots Posted May 8 Report Share Posted May 8 Not sure if I’m in the right place but glad to be a new member of this forum. Recently purchased a 1989 Chrysler Conquest, manual trans. Back in 1984 I bought a Toyota Supra which was a reliable, fun car but remember seeing a Conquest and lusting over it. Better late than never! Waiting to get that PA registration back so I can drive it. The car has a couple of electrical issues but runs well. I’ll get them ironed out. Hopefully we have a few electric whizzes on this site who can steer me in the right direction. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted May 9 Report Share Posted May 9 Welcome. Any questions just ask away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1SICDSM Posted May 9 Report Share Posted May 9 welcome to the family .any pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toots Posted May 10 Author Report Share Posted May 10 Thanks for your replies. My Conquest has two electrical issues. The battery does not charge when the car is running. I had the alternator tested at an auto electric shop that rebuilds them but it tested fine. The second issue is that there is no power coming into the relay box next to the battery. So the pop-up headlights, tail lights won’t work. But they all work fine if I jump 12V to the secondary side of the relays. The relays click when I hit the light switch so the switch side of relay wiring is intact. I replaced all of the fusible links on principle. From the fusible links power goes into the harness by way of four 12 gauge wires thru a connector, none going directly into the relay box. As best I can figure, the relay box receives power from two heavy wires ( white and white with green) coming up from the alternator thru a two- prong connector. When I open that connector and test the alternator side there is no power, nothing. But there is continuity from that connector down to the B post on the alternator. The wire diagram in the FSM shows the Battery connected to the alternator by that heavy white wire, but no connectors or harness. So before I start unwrapping harnesses, can someone tell me, shouldn’t that two prong connector from the alternator have 12V at all times if it’s connected to the battery? And what is the exact path that brings current to the secondary side of the relay box? Other than the main fusible links at the battery, are there any other fusible links in the harness that could prevent battery charging or delivery of power to the relay box? I tried running a 10 gauge wire directly from battery + to the alternator charging post. Fortunately I placed a 14 gauge fusible link in series but it melted on contact! Now I’m confused. All help appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1SICDSM Posted May 11 Report Share Posted May 11 10 gauge way too small.but most likely issue with trigger wire.that wire also powers that portion of the fuse box.if i remember correctly there is a inline fusible link and a connector as well on the alternator harness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrdinalGradient Posted May 13 Report Share Posted May 13 Welcome and I hope you enjoy! Plenty of help to be found here. Wish I could be of more help in this thread but I do want to extend a warm welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted May 13 Report Share Posted May 13 (edited) Welcome! 10AWG is way to small. Especially with the 14AWG link. 10 is good for 30 amps. 14 is only rated for 15 amps. While charging you will see well over 50A up to 75A depending on the year alternator and condition, as well as the battery condition. #4 copper or 2 AWG aluminum is what you need for that load. Sounds a lot like a bad ground somewhere. If you take a meter to the + side of the relay when it should be energized and the other meter lead straight to the battery, does it read 12V? If so, it's definitely a ground issue. A lot of items are a switched ground setup. Meaning the 12V side is hot when the car is on and the ground switching is what turns on the relay. There should be a heavy ground from the block to the battery. I would check that first. Start taking resistance readings from the - battery terminal to different ground points and see what you get. Should be low resistance. Ideally single digits. Edited May 16 by psu_Crash clarification 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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