tux Posted January 12 Report Share Posted January 12 (edited) I’m putting together a 4G64/4G63 hybrid for a RWD Starion swap and have a few CAS / trigger questions that I haven’t been able to find a clear, first-hand answer to. Setup: • Wide-block 4G64 (Asia-sourced short block) • 1G 4G63 DOHC head (bare head) • RWD application (Starion chassis) • Bosch DBW Throttlebody • Honda K-Series smart coils • MaxxECU Race ECU • Still sourcing cams, lifters, cam pulleys, timing components, rockers, pistons, rods, etc From what I’ve read, the 1G CAS on the back of the intake cam may interfere with the firewall in a Starion. Some posts say it will hit unless the engine is moved forward and a custom driveshaft is made, while others say it does clear but is very tight. Questions: 1 Has anyone here run a 1G CAS on a DOHC head in a Starion without moving the engine forward? If so, how tight is the clearance in practice? 2 Are there alternative cam/crank trigger setups that work cleanly with a 1G head in a RWD chassis? 3 I understand the 2G CAS won’t work on a 1G head — but can a 2G crank trigger/sensor be adapted to a wide-block 4G64 for engine position, with a different cam signal? 4 What are people actually running for crank + cam phase on this combo when firewall clearance is a concern? I’m open to OEM DSM / Hyundai / Kia solutions or aftermarket trigger setups, just trying to understand the real-world options before committing to engine placement. Pictures are greatly appreciated. Thanks — any firsthand experience is appreciated Edited January 12 by tux cleaned up text Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1SICDSM Posted January 12 Report Share Posted January 12 the cas will definitely hit unless you cut the firewall.i would of used a 2g head .the 2g sensor will fit,and the 2g head allows the use of evo intake manifold with modifying for fuel injectors.also cas is harder to find and not the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tux Posted January 12 Author Report Share Posted January 12 I found this Kia sensor from their DOHC Sirius variant, I wonder if it can work for the cam phase. I'm not sure if it requires a trigger wheel of some kind though or if it reads a magnet embedded in their cam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1SICDSM Posted January 12 Report Share Posted January 12 (edited) could use the crankshaft sensor kiggly kit if your ecm can control it.could make a tone ring and mount for camshaft sensor for front of cam gear.like the prp kit for the rb engine Edited January 12 by 1SICDSM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 https://projectzerog.com/tight_fit.shtml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tux Posted January 15 Author Report Share Posted January 15 Ya I’m wondering about solutions that don’t involve a custom drive shaft. i think a 2gb cas may work or some other solution. im going to be cutting off the throttle body flange to clear the booster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted January 15 Report Share Posted January 15 5 hours ago, tux said: Ya I’m wondering about solutions that don’t involve a custom drive shaft. i think a 2gb cas may work or some other solution. im going to be cutting off the throttle body flange to clear the booster Fair enough. Custom driveshaft can be a chore. A lot easier than the swap you're doing though 😄 I had all the parts to do the 4G64/63 at one time and sold them off dirt cheap when I moved. Serious mistake. This is the route I planned to keep the engine on the factory mounts and drivetrain. No one wants to move the weight forward on a RWD. This one requires a stand alone, which I was using anyways, but I think they sell a kit to work with the factory ECU too. Not sure what your plan is there. https://www.kigglyracing.com/product-page/billet-12-tooth-crank-trigger-sensor-kit-v3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tux Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 (edited) 3 hours ago, psu_Crash said: Fair enough. Custom driveshaft can be a chore. A lot easier than the swap you're doing though 😄 I had all the parts to do the 4G64/63 at one time and sold them off dirt cheap when I moved. Serious mistake. This is the route I planned to keep the engine on the factory mounts and drivetrain. No one wants to move the weight forward on a RWD. This one requires a stand alone, which I was using anyways, but I think they sell a kit to work with the factory ECU too. Not sure what your plan is there. https://www.kigglyracing.com/product-page/billet-12-tooth-crank-trigger-sensor-kit-v3 Yes, I’m planning to do the kiggly crank trigger and figure out a solution for cam home. That’s why I’m looking for options like that Kia sensor (uses a g4cp engine based on 4g6x). It’s super slim, but I’m not sure how it’s triggered. I found the FSM for he kia, and it completely ignores that sensor And I hear you. I wish i didn’t already start down this road. 4g6x parts are harder than I thought would be to come by and more expensive than i thought, given how popular this darn engine was. For my 4g54, i went with a modified distributor shafted mated to an AEM EPM, which allowed me to do sequential. Edited January 16 by tux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 9 hours ago, tux said: Yes, I’m planning to do the kiggly crank trigger and figure out a solution for cam home. That’s why I’m looking for options like that Kia sensor (uses a g4cp engine based on 4g6x). It’s super slim, but I’m not sure how it’s triggered. I found the FSM for he kia, and it completely ignores that sensor And I hear you. I wish i didn’t already start down this road. 4g6x parts are harder than I thought would be to come by and more expensive than i thought, given how popular this darn engine was. For my 4g54, i went with a modified distributor shafted mated to an AEM EPM, which allowed me to do sequential. Kia sensor looks to the be the same as the Kiggly, but like you said, it still needs to trigger off something. It's always more expensive and take 10x as long as you think! I also use a modified distributor with the yoshifab hi res wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tux Posted January 17 Author Report Share Posted January 17 The kiggly is for the crank, the Kia one bolts to wher me the 1g dsm CAS goes but it’s super thin. I spoke with a buddy who was a Kia tech and he said there was an exciter ring but he doesn’t remember if it was pressed onto the cam or if it was bolted on. he checked with the parts guy and they could not find any info. shame there’s no pick a parts anywhere near where I could check. i think I could just block off the sensor location and use wasted spark. But ya know… if you do something do it right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tux Posted January 19 Author Report Share Posted January 19 oh @techboyi see on DSMtuners you have a 99 dsm is the cam sensor on the 99 slimmer than a 1g CAS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1SICDSM Posted January 19 Report Share Posted January 19 the 99 camshaft sensor will fit just barley.if you want heater hoses you have to flip the sensor and weld a new mount for sensor.also recommend button head bolts for the cover.i have it on my 4g63 swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tux Posted January 19 Author Report Share Posted January 19 Perfect thank you! my heater hose barbs are mangled so I may be forced to come up with a a way to have bulkhead 90 elbows anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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