BKB94 Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 Using the T-5 trans with a internal thunderbird SC T/O bearing I'm pretty sure I need a 3/4 or 7/8 master to get the travel needed. I was shocked that Willwood and Tilton does not give you any usable info on their site like mounting flange dimensions. I ran this combo from 1996 to around 2010 when I installed the TR6060 in my mustang. Unfortunately I can't remember what master cylinder size I was running originally. If im stuck with the quest 5/8 master I could always use a external slave cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obsolete Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 I recall reading somewhere that a Tilton master bolts right up. I haven't tried it myself yet, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB94 Posted February 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 tilton 75 series uses 2.25" bolt pattern and that probably does fit the quest 2.160". I did find a few pictures with some measurements when used as a master cylinder for their brake pedal assemblies. About $100 so not bad to try it. 13/16 rings a bell so that's probably what ill order up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB94 Posted February 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 It's rare that I purchase something and feel I got something of quality or quananty for the price. Im actually pretty impressed with this wilwood master cylinder. 260-1-373 $99 on amazon. looking at both this and the Tilton 75 they seem to be the exact thing so I just went cheapest. It bolts right to the firewall no mods. You can remove the rod and install the quest rod but I think it will be a bit short. I tapped the quest clevis to 5/16 24 and was shocked how good the threads came out. I was also shocked how worn everything was, tons of lost motion. The pin was shot, clevis and clutch pedal wallowed out. Ended up making a oversized pin .430 and reaming everything out to fit it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted February 23, 2023 Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 You're switching to hydraulic assisted brakes? Reasons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB94 Posted February 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2023 Reasons 1. I had it laying around, 1999 mustang hydroboost and master cylinder 2. Every quest I have ever seen had the paint peeling off the frame. I have had fords my whole life back to my 67 mustang, owning many fords with 300K+ miles and never replaced a master cylinder or had paint peeling under a master. I want to keep that paint intact. 3. All calipers will soon be replaced with ford cobra units and this combo works really nice. 4. replace obsolete or soon to be obsolete parts with something I will be able to get for a few decades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted February 24, 2023 Report Share Posted February 24, 2023 Interesting, I thought it may have been for space concerns. I would however add I have owned Fords all the way back to my 67 Galaxie. I have had Ford master cylinders leak just as often as other manufacturers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STARION_NORTH Posted February 24, 2023 Report Share Posted February 24, 2023 I am interested in the hydroboost setup, would be nice to ditch the vacuum booster for more space for MPI manifold. What did you need to change in order to run that setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKB94 Posted February 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2023 You are seeing it in its current condition so I really don’t know. Plus I’m running rack and pinion with a 5.0, Your results might be significantly different. To mount it I used the aluminum spacer behind the factory booster. Made a plate 1/4 thick with 4 cap bolts with heads cut down welded to the plate. They act as studs like the factory booster had so it mounts to the firewall like factory. 1/4 plate was needed for proper spacing and has the large hole in the center to attach the hydro boost. The factory ford eyelit was cut off the push rod and the correct die was used for the quest eyelit. Hydro boost is upside down but many run them like that. They tend to run large master cylinders, I think I have a few from 1”-1.5”. With the extra hydraulic pressure you can run larger masters without increasing pedal effort. You can also use the 80s challenger booster think that takes you from 9”-8” booster then you can use your same leaking master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STARION_NORTH Posted February 26, 2023 Report Share Posted February 26, 2023 Thank you for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts