Jump to content

Valvoline VR1 20W-50


The_Ginger_Stig
 Share

Recommended Posts

I've seen all the posts that mention running 20w-50 in passing but there seems to be some people that caution against it. I was pleased to find that my local parts chain sells vr1 because I know the added ZDDP is supposed to be good for older heads and valve trains, but I also know that the FSM doesn't have 20w-50 listed as a possibility. Does anyone have any experience running a 20w-50 or even vr1 specifically?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you saw the bicycle chain that runs the oil pump on these things you would not want to run 20W50.  20W50 is harder to pump especially when it is colder.  

I can't see a need unless your engine is just slap wore out and has no oil pressure.  

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought a heavier oil would fair better in the Arizona 110+ heat and the oil pressure didn't change a whole lot just maybe an 1/8th more on the gauge at idle and under boost.

I did end up putting it in because I had some free time to change the oil which I won't get more of for a bit, but would you recommend switching it out immediately or just at the next oil change interval?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've only ever used 10W30 on these cars, specifically Castrol GTX 10W30.   Never used synthetics or any different oil weights on a CQ for over 30 years with up to 7 different cars (modified or stock).      I had a rod knock when I bought one of my current cqs in 1996.   I drove that car for three years as a daily driver with the known knock using Castrol 10W30 oil changed every 3k miles!   Yes, there was metal in the oil on each oil change but it never seized up!   Finally was able to pull and repair the engine when I had the funds and another available car to drive at the time.      So, I always ponder why people insist on trying other oil weights, etc. 

kev    

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...