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Possible E-Tac failure (solved, my bad)


madmanperez
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Ok, the last time (about 6yrs ago, I lost the use of Auto locks, windows and speed sensitive wipers. The solution was the Tac unit under the driver's seat was not getting any power (12v.).

New power line was run, Problem solved.

 

Fast foward and the same loss of function have appeared again. So what to do? Check for a loss of power and the Tac unit, No loss of power (12v)? Check all fuses, all good? Head lights work (including Hi-beams) Pop-up functions. Flashers work. Now I know all this have associated relays. But I don't know what can cause a failure of those systems other than the Tac unit. 

Do I presume the Tac has failed completely, or is there a different issue here?

 

Thank in advance

Edited by madmanperez
miss-spelling
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The one place (thing)I didn't check.  I'll look in the FSM to see which might be responsible. They all look good the last time I looked (quite a few yrs ago) was checking for voltage on a different issue. Didn't think one would go on such a small draw. But gonna check any way ya never know until you look

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  • 5 weeks later...

Finally got around to checking the fusible links. (Very hectic life right now). They all check out fine all solid connections, good continuity, voltage present across all links.

So effectively, Still, no windows, no speed sensitive wipers, no auto locks.

All cabin fuses good. Back to square one. Fsm points to TAC unit when trouble shooting these systems.  Am I missing something, something I haven't checked?

I'm at a loss, that's why I reach out to you guys (no meant to be sarcastic) I always appreciate/need the feedback.

Thanks for everyone's help

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First thing I checked was power to the tac unit. Since that was the failure so many years ago.

There is 12v running to the tac unit.

 

At this point I remember reading something about a condition that signals a tac failure. The increased battery drain. In other words a dead battery after the car is left sitting for several weeks.

 

The car sits a lot in recent months due to what has become a very hectic life. I don't get to run her as often as I used to. I found more than once that even a new battery would not last and be dead after a couple of months. Maybe I'm remembering wrong. As a precaution I've been disconnecting the battery after every use.

 

I still have some other small jobs to do but getting the windows and door lock working are at the forefront. 

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I'l have to look at that.  

 

Model yr. good question the only info I have on model yr it the assembled date on the body itself. No documentation of any kind when it was purchased. '87 assembled to makes it '87 model yr. to me. If it actually an '88 I've been looking for the wrong parts maybe, Don't know the differences between the '87 and '88 models.

 

I owned an '86 back in '86 had to give it up due to ins. issues back in the day in NJ

Only drawn back to Starions after a misleading discussion with the missus (won't get into that)

Thanks again, I'll post hear with any result or lack thereof

 

Edited by madmanperez
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1 hour ago, obsolete said:

Unless it was built in early '87, it's probably an '88. If you post a couple interior/exterior pictures, the members here should be able to tell you the year pretty quickly.

If it was an 88 you could tell quickly from the rear axles, no?

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I was going to suggest that, but there's also the seats, climate control, steering wheel, air dam, rear bumper, transmission pan...granted, the rear end is probably the least likely of those to have been swapped out over the years.

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On 1/15/2023 at 9:07 AM, admin_JAinsworth said:

I had battery drain with an 89. Removed the ETACS, cleaned the metal on the floor when it sat, cleaned the contact points where the connector plugged in, and the battery drain stopped.

Jimmy

Removed the seat to check the grounding points all seem good scratched them up to bare metal just to be sure. The only thing I noticed was that when the car is running I see 12v+ at the powerline/connector on the tac unit. when the car is off it's showing 10v~ at the same point. 

Basically when all is hooked up still no auto-locks, windows etc.

😟🤬

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update:

Took the car out for a short errand and low and behold I had windows and door locks. A real wt.... moment. Ran around a bit on my errand got home rolled up the windows and boom (no real sound) without any warning suddenly no more windows and door locks. Another wt.... moment. 

 

Really what the hell. I know intermittent issues are very hard to track down. But I've done nothing since the sanding down of the mounting screw holes in hopes of creating a better ground.

 

I swear it seems like car is possessed.

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loose wasn't the case. A long time ago I added a bus bar to reduce the number of wires running off the battery. Each line was fused, so in a sense it was an auxiliary fuse box. Never bothered to look at it, so when I figured I needed to run a fresh wire and replace my dedicated 12v feed to the tac unit, there it was, a glaring red light showing a blown fuse. Ugh! after all this time and pulling my hair out (not that I have that much left) I replaced the fuse and tada its all working

 

Thanks to everyone who chimed in, I really apricate all the feedback. 

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  • madmanperez changed the title to Possible E-Tac failure (solved, my bad)
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