jeffball610 Posted October 30, 2022 Report Share Posted October 30, 2022 I assume the ETACS is needed to make the car run and drive by reading a few threads. Is it possible to eliminate it from the stock electrical system? Mine seems to work fine so far (I've only started the car and put it in gear on stands), but I need as much vertical space as possible to fit myself into the car. I'm hoping I can eliminate the system so I don't need to relocate all of the wiring. On a side note, I see that I'll need to move/remove the seatbelt box to move the seat back and down even more. Everyone thinks it's cool to be tall until you don't fit into things 🙃 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldStar Posted October 30, 2022 Report Share Posted October 30, 2022 The ETACS acts more like a modern body control module. It controls your windows, wipers, door locks, etc. Shouldn't affect the engine. Check out page 258 (270 of the PDF) of the electrical service manual here: http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_nav.html I'd still look into relocating rather than deleting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffball610 Posted October 31, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2022 22 hours ago, GoldStar said: The ETACS acts more like a modern body control module. It controls your windows, wipers, door locks, etc. Shouldn't affect the engine. Check out page 258 (270 of the PDF) of the electrical service manual here: http://www.starquestgarage.com/manuals/service/conquest/1988/88_conquest_service_nav.html I'd still look into relocating rather than deleting. Thank you. I was thinking it was more of an anti-theft device that has security checks to make the car operate and move. I'd like to keep it for the functions it has. I'll try to eliminate it and see what happens though. It will be a bit of time before I do this. I'm still fixing issues from a previous owner, so the engine is coming out. I'll report back any findings I have as soon as I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obsolete Posted October 31, 2022 Report Share Posted October 31, 2022 I'm interested to see what you come up with for "tall guy mods". I've contemplated some changes to my car for a better driving position, but it looks like it could get complicated pretty quickly. Are you going to post a build/resto thread anywhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffball610 Posted November 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2022 18 hours ago, obsolete said: I'm interested to see what you come up with for "tall guy mods". I've contemplated some changes to my car for a better driving position, but it looks like it could get complicated pretty quickly. Are you going to post a build/resto thread anywhere? We'll see where I go with a build thread. I'm planning an LS swap (I hear hearts breaking) once I sort the car out. I typically just work and don't post much. Evidence of this can be found on my 4G63 Datsun 510 build on Ratsun.net and The510Realm.com. As far as "tall guy mods", my current plan is to use a fixed back bucket seat mounted as low and far back as possible. I did this in my 350Z a few years ago. It was a Corbeau FX1 wide. I had to shave the lower mounting holes off to lower it another 3/4". Prices have gone up, so I'm looking for cheaper alternatives that are still "wide". I'm not a wide guy, but I'm also not the typical 150lb "race driver" they build seats for. To mount a seat as low as possible, I would need to move or remove the ETACS control unit and the seatbelt mechanism in the floor. I might be able to swap in something from another car that mounts on the center console area so I can still be safe in the car. I do plan to drive the hell out of it 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueCuda Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 I'm 6'3 240 and feel your pain. I have an autocross deal I want to try in a few weeks and I have yet to try and sit in the car with my helmet on. I am going to have to lean way back I think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted November 7, 2022 Report Share Posted November 7, 2022 ETACS has nothing to do with the engine electronics. Keep the factory main harness that runs through the LH side of the engine compartment and interior. The engine harness that runs on the RH side of the engine compartment is in-needed if you are swapping but you’ll need a few wires for your tach and starter. All of these Chevy and Toyota swaps lately, I don’t really understand the hype to be honest. But, I’ll keep my biased opinions to myself haha. Just please finish the swap and don’t let it become just another parts car in the years to come (which has been something I noticed to be a trend with cars that start down the ‘swap’ process). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffball610 Posted November 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2022 14 minutes ago, kev said: ETACS has nothing to do with the engine electronics. Keep the factory main harness that runs through the LH side of the engine compartment and interior. The engine harness that runs on the RH side of the engine compartment is in-needed if you are swapping but you’ll need a few wires for your tach and starter. All of these Chevy and Toyota swaps lately, I don’t really understand the hype to be honest. But, I’ll keep my biased opinions to myself haha. Just please finish the swap and don’t let it become just another parts car in the years to come (which has been something I noticed to be a trend with cars that start down the ‘swap’ process). Thanks for the info on the ETACS and the wiring. I'm thinking I'll just relocate it to the center console with some wiring extensions for now. As far as the swap goes, it took me 12 years to get my Datsun on the road. I did all the work myself and I'm dedicated. I love the look of this chassis, so it's going to happen barring any major life issues. I just got the G54B setup back in after sorting some issues the previous owner(s) left for me. The starter bolts weren't even tightened. I'll see how it works and I'll sort out any chassis issues there might be. I'm sure it's a great engine, but tuning is a nightmare. Financially it just isn't worth it. The cost of a standalone and some fuel upgrades and you're at nearly the cost of an LS shortblock. I've arleady procured a CD009 transmission and I'm nearly there on a good LS setup as well. The G54B will have a good home in a Mighty Max for a friend, so it won't go to waste. I love my turbos, but the Starion screams V8 rumble to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted November 7, 2022 Report Share Posted November 7, 2022 I have under $3k invested in MPI specifics on my one conquest. That’s all the G54B needs, a good MPI manifold and a stand alone MPI. I use SDS EMC. Some people shame it but it’s inexpensive and easily tunable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffball610 Posted November 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2022 12 hours ago, kev said: I have under $3k invested in MPI specifics on my one conquest. That’s all the G54B needs, a good MPI manifold and a stand alone MPI. I use SDS EMC. Some people shame it but it’s inexpensive and easily tunable. I paid $500 for my CD009 and I can pick up an iron block LS for another $1500. Of course I need an adapter, motor mounts, drivesahft, etc., but it's infinitely tunable on the stock ECU, makes 400hp, it's realiable, modern, and sounds cool. I love my 4G63 in my Datsun, so my turbo needs are met. I want a V8 and this is a cheap and easy way to make it happen. To each their own. This is the path I choose to walk. You can walk your path and we're both happy 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffball610 Posted December 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2022 I finally got some seats to get all of this moving forward. They're just cheap Amazon/eBay seats with a low seating position. I mounted them as low as possible and eliminated the seatbelt mechanism to get them back and low. I used one of those bolt holes to replace the frame rail seat rail mounting bracket. It's not as low as I'd like, but it's low enough to drive. With this position, I was able to take the ETACS out of the mounting case and slid it under the front of the seat. There's just enough room for that, so I don't need to get rid of the unit or relocate it. I'll try to take some pics when I remove the bracket to paint it. It's a huge pain to install due to the side mounting bolts and lack of space, but it fits and I fit 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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