obsolete Posted July 7, 2022 Report Share Posted July 7, 2022 (edited) This started out as a post in my rear caliper rebuild thread, but I decided to make it into its own thread to make it easier to find. Here's all the parts sourcing info I compiled during my rear caliper rebuild project: Rebuild Kit RockAuto, etc.: Centric 143.46004 includes only the caliper piston seal, dust boot, dust boot retainer. Dorman D352041 includes all of the above, plus two o-rings, one of which presumably fits the parking brake actuator. If your slider pin and parking brake dust boots are in good shape and you're okay with cleaning and re-using them, then you may be able to get away with just buying one of these cheap kits. If you need new slider pin and/or parking boots, see the other options below. Bigg Red: There is a rebuild kit from a UK company called Bigg Red. The part number is 1583S for a kit to rebuild a single caliper, and 1583 for a kit to rebuild two calipers. They are available on eBay and will ship to the US. I bought the 1538S kit, and it arrived in 9 days, which is faster than it takes for some things to ship from California. The kit also includes the caliper piston seal, piston boot, boot retainer ring, and o-ring for the parking brake actuator, but not the parking brake boot. Mitsubishi OEM: The holy grail is the Mitsubishi OEM rebuild kit, MB238251. As I write this, they're available on Yahoo! Japan auctions for $20-30. This kit includes EVERYTHING: piston seal, piston dust boot, piston boot retainer, slider pin dust boots, parking brake dust boot (correct OEM shape, not the big cylindrical aftermarket one), parking brake actuator o-ring, the spring that goes around the parking brake arm, even assembly lube and grease. If I had known that this kit was available when I started my rebuild, I would have bought it. You can use a proxy buyer service like Buyee to purchase one of these kits from Yahoo! Japan auctions and get it shipped internationally. I also found that 4610A037 is listed as a replacement for MB238251. This one is available from Amayama; they ship directly from Japan, so it may be a little cheaper to order one this way than through a proxy. I threw one of the 4610A037 kits in my last order from Amayama and it was in stock, and when I got it, all the parts looked correct, but I haven't tried it yet. I'm just going to hang onto it in case I need it someday. Slider Pins I have not been able to find new aftermarket replacements anywhere. The OEM part numbers are MB193824 and MB193826. Amayama claims they are still available in Japan, but I haven't tried ordering them to verify. I found some used ones in good enough condition for my rebuild. Slider Pin Boots The only source I have found for these is one of the two overseas rebuild kits listed above. Assembly Lube Yes, you need assembly lube for the caliper piston seal. The little packet of silicone grease that comes with the Bigg Red kit is not the right stuff. The grease that your local auto parts store sells as disc brake caliper lube, high-temp brake grease, etc. is not the right stuff. You can get away with just using brake fluid, but I have personally had problems doing this in the past, and I wouldn't recommend it. The problem I've had with brake calipers that I reassembled using only brake fluid on the piston seal is that they made a creaking sound when applying the brakes. The brake fluid doesn't do a very good job of lubricating the interface between the seal and the piston. Creaky brakes might not sound like a very big deal, but trust me, it's louder than you'd expect, and it can be really annoying. This problem isn't just limited to amateurs reassembling calipers in their garages; it happened to GM too. Look up GM part number 89022161 and read the TSB they issued for this exact problem on brand new cars. By looking up the MSDS number for the GM caliper lube, 30047098, you can see that it's 60-70% castor oil. Yes, castor oil. That's the key ingredient. It doesn't soak into the rubber and degrade it, and it's compatible with brake fluid. There are several different castor oil based lubes on the market that are suitable for caliper rebuilding, here are the ones I know of: Castrol Red Rubber Grease (and various other products sold as Red Rubber Grease) Raybestos BAF12 Brake Assembly Fluid (this one is sold at RockAuto) Centric 500.10000 Brake Assembly Lube Carlson H9440 Brake Assembly Fluid McKay 50600 Assembly Lube (I used this one because it was the one I could the cheapest/soonest and it worked well for me) Caliper Piston There are a couple part numbers for these from major US distributors: Raybestos DPS85077 and Centric 146.41001. I have not been able to find any in stock anywhere. Summit Racing claims they can drop ship either of them from the manufacturer in 3 weeks. I tried ordering both and waited a month and they never shipped, but I was still able to cancel my order and get my money back. The only legit source I have found for new pistons is from a Spanish manufacturer called FRENKIT. The part number is P414101. They're available on eBay and ship from Germany, Latvia, or Lithuania. SQC forum member TexasQuest ordered some and said they took 3 weeks to arrive. He didn't end up using them, so I got mine from him. Thanks again TexasQuest! FRENKIT has updated their website and no longer lists any part numbers for cars pre-1995. The P414101 pistons are still available on eBay, but I am worried that FRENKIT may have stopped manufacturing them, so if you need one, buy it while you still can. The FRENKIT replacement pistons do not include the parking brake parts; you will need to cut them out of your old factory piston and install them in the new aftermarket piston. I show how to do this in my rebuild thread. Belleville Washers The specs on these are 11mm ID, 28mm OD, 0.6mm thick, and 1.5mm tall. I can't find anything close enough from any industrial parts suppliers that I'd be comfortable substituting it. Everything that's anywhere near the right size is too thick, and would add a ton of stress on the parking brake cables. My washers are badly rust pitted, but after cleaning, they still do the job, so I am reusing them. If you really need to replace some of yours, the OEM part number is MB134689, and Amayama claims they are still available in Japan. There are also other cars that used the same Akebono rear caliper design that you could salvage the washers from. The Fiat 124 is one example: https://www.midwest-bayless.com/Fiat-124SC-0_p-23807-caliper-washer-u8-brake-caliper-rear-belleville-washer-fiat-bertone-x19-124-lancia-scorpion-all-u8.aspx Needle Bearings The shaft for the parking brake arm rotates on two 15x21x10mm needle bearings. That's 15mm ID, 21mm OD, and 10mm wide. Thanks to kev for providing the original part number, KOYO 15BM2110. I found replacements on eBay by just searching that part number, 15BM2110. They aren't genuine KOYO, but they won't have a very difficult job in the brake caliper, so I'm sure they'll be just fine. This size of bearing is also used in various Yamaha ATVs. They cross to Yamaha 4WV-46167-00-00 and are listed as a front differential pinion bearing for: YFM400FA Kodiak 4x4 (00-04) YFM400FW Big Bear 4x4 (03-06) YFM600FWA Grizzly (98-01) YFM600H Grizzly Hunting (00) Another part number I found was All Balls 23-1004, which crosses to the Yamaha and Koyo part numbers above. Parking Brake Boot This is the big rubber boot that covers the whole parking brake mechanism on the back of the caliper. The only rebuild kit that includes a new one is the OEM Mitsubishi rebuild kit from Japan mentioned above. There's also an American aftermarket replacement, it's made by Acushnet Tool Company and the part number is B-2121. It's listed here as a Subaru E-brake Boot: http://www.acushnettool.com/cgi-bin/site/site.cgi?manage=ATC&cat=hardt. I'm not sure how you'd order one of these--call or email the company, I guess? They seem to focus on selling to professional rebuilders. This part is clearly visible in the photos of a lot of the reman rear calipers. It's a different shape than the OEM boot and it gets kind of crushed by the the metal shield that bolts onto the caliper, but it works. Brake Pad Clips These have become hard to find recently, so don't throw yours out. They are stainless, so it's worth cleaning them up and reusing them. The factory part number is MR389623, and they still appear to be available from Amayama in Japan. The aftermarket part number is Centric 117.46011, if you can find any. Edited October 12, 2022 by obsolete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted July 7, 2022 Report Share Posted July 7, 2022 (edited) Good information to know. Thanks for taking the time to post all this . Amayama is a good source, but they stick it to you on shipping. Then again, if you need a part you will pay the price. I am checking on both a aftermarket set up and with Japan for a complete stock caliper set up. Who knows what I will come up with? As far as a aftermarket set up someone should ask Convette. After all, he ran a Conquest in Autocross. Perhaps the moderators might want to consider a sticky for Obsoletes post . Bill Edited July 7, 2022 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted July 7, 2022 Report Share Posted July 7, 2022 Thank you for putting this together! It's a great list I had success with the following needle bearings; stock drive products (sdp-si.com), P/N S99NH2MBN1512. This is stated in the thread you linked but they are 2mm longer than the OEM part (12mm vs 10mm). They work great but it is even harder to assemble the e-brake mechanism in the caliper with these longer bearings. Another option for the pistons is to send your originals to a shop for reconditioning. I'm pretty sure that is what occurs with the centric full caliper rebuilds. You can see the different type of plating on the pistons and I've actually noticed some evidence of former corrosion through the plating on the last set that I had bought. A thorough blasting and re-plating with a flash-chrome process should amend a corroded piston. I was in the process of going down this route a few years back but was able to lay my hands on a set of centric rebuilds at the time which stopped my efforts. For an assembly lube, I use Dow Corning Vacuum Grease. I've had really good luck with in on multiple cars now. I originally started to use it with silicon based DOT-5 brake fluid but then started using it with DOT-3 systems as well. Just a little bit on the seal is all that is needed to lubricate but limit interaction with the glycol brake fluid. Once the piston is inserted, I put a small bead between the seal and the dust boot. I'm sure others have their own opinions and more pros/cons with this, but it has worked successfully for me over the years. Let me know when you are done with this and I'll move it over to the FAQ forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldStar Posted January 2, 2023 Report Share Posted January 2, 2023 On 7/7/2022 at 11:44 AM, obsolete said: Slider Pin Boots The only source I have found for these is one of the two overseas rebuild kits listed above. Just wanted to update this what I found. I picked up a set of front caliper slide pin boots at O'Reilly's, and they seem to do the job fine for the rears. I did this a few hundred miles ago, even went through an autocross event, and I've seen no issues with them. The little rubber plugs aren't used here: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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