varzaman Posted October 28, 2021 Report Share Posted October 28, 2021 So a lot of the saved topics I had in the past are gone now, so asking this to compile some information for myself. Getting ready to put my fuel tank back together. I have a month to get everything back together and move the car ha. I don't live next to my car so I'm trying to compile everything at once so I can minimize travel time. By the end of the month though I'll be living next to my car! Here is what I have: - The tank has been sandblasted and coated - I have a new fuel pump (Walbro) that I'll be installing. - I'm replacing the hose to the hardline with a stainless steel braided cable, using an inverted flare 6AN adapter. - The hose to the return part of the hardline is just normal fuel line (not steel braided). - Have replacement fuel filler hose, just need to get clamps for it. - Hardline cleaned - Have new in tank fuel filter Some questions: 1. What was the fuel filter that everyone says to toss? The conical filter going into the fuel pump? Is a replacement filter needed? 2. Is it easy to reuse the current pump mounting solution with the Walbro? 3. Is there anything in the above that I'm missing? 4. Anyone have any clamps for the filler hose they like and recommend? And any clamps you guys like for the return fuel hose? 5. I haven't done anything with the sending unit, and I don't think I have time to send it out and get it back. I didn't see anything wrong with it though, is there any service I can do to it while it's out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted October 28, 2021 Report Share Posted October 28, 2021 1. Yes, it is that conical filter. No, you don't need to replace it. The new in tank filter is all that you need. 2. Yes, a walbro is very similar in size to the stock pump. 3. What kind of braided line are you using for the high pressure side? I'd highly recommend a teflon line. I've had rubber lines leach fuel with time. I really like summit racing's steel braided teflon lines and fittings. 4. This is all low pressure, so it doesn't really matter. Any clamp will work. I used the clamps from silicone intake piping connectors on my restored car. For my driver, I use regular hose clamps. For the pickup tube that is. Hose clamps or the stock clamps for the rest. 5. There is a simple resistance test you can do via the FSM....I'm struggling to find it at the moment but know it is there . Found it, page 8-164 is the electrical manual (88) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
varzaman Posted October 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2021 For the braided line, I'm using a one foot long summit racing ptfe hose, with the fittings already on it. Will definitely do the resistance test, and gotta stock up on some clamps. Thanks for the response! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted October 28, 2021 Report Share Posted October 28, 2021 Yep, that is the hose...it works great but it does kink easy on installation. Take your time with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
varzaman Posted October 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2021 I actually have one more question. What are the bolt sizes that actually hold the tank up? Looking at the parts diagram, and not seeing it. 😕 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted October 29, 2021 Report Share Posted October 29, 2021 17mm hex. They are actually nuts and washers. The studs are pressed into the mounting locations. You'll need 10mm and 12mm sockets for the fuel pump mounts and I think the plastic cover over the fuel pump is a 7mm, if memory serves me correctly. Make sure you take a good set of metric sockets and wrenches. A long extension (8" or more) helps when installing the tank. I set the tank on a piece of carboard and slide it under the car. Depending on how high the car is jacked up, you may have to tilt the tank a little to get the filler tube to clear the quarter. Once under the car on the floor in its relative position, I simply climb under the car and lift the tank onto my chest. Then push up into place. Install two or three nuts a few turns just to hold the tank. (Don't draw them up tight, you want to the tank to hang about 1/4-3/8" lower at this point) Then climb out and go to your filler neck and work the rubber boot in the gas filler area around the filler tube (oh I should have noted to make sure the gas cap is NOT on during installation). Then I usually stop there and connect my HP,LP, and vent lines. Go into your trunk and connect your electrical cable. Check everything over well and then install the last few nuts and slowly spin them in pulling the tank up evenly and making sure nothing is getting pinched. Last, connect the two bolts on the filler tube to the body. That's about it besides putting in the splash shield in the inner fender and buttoning up your trunk. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes once you have everything ready and installed on the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
varzaman Posted October 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2021 (edited) Wow you're right haha. It's coming back to me now. That is why they wouldn't show up in the parts manual lmao. This is what not being next to your car does. Again, thanks for the help. The nuts are m17 though? That's a lot bigger than I would have imagined....where do you buy m17 nuts from anyways? lol. Edited October 29, 2021 by varzaman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted October 29, 2021 Report Share Posted October 29, 2021 No, it's a 17mm hex. The actual nut is an M10 but I'm not positive on the pitch. 'standard' is M10-1.50 but I'm remembering these to be M10-1.25, I believe. I can actually check later, I know where my stash of spares are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted October 29, 2021 Report Share Posted October 29, 2021 Yes, it is M10x1.25....it's not the common M10 size but they are still available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
varzaman Posted October 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2021 You're gonna have to excuse me, and bear with me here lol. I'm a little confused and I've been learning everything as I go, so some phrases I still don't understand. So the nuts are m10. What is the 17mm hex you are referring to? A 17mm hex head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted October 29, 2021 Report Share Posted October 29, 2021 Yes, the hex of the nut is 17mm across the flats. Meaning you need a 17mm socket to remove the nut. The nut size is M10-1.25. Meaning that the nut threads on a 10mm nominal diameter bolt/stud with a 1.25mm thread pitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
varzaman Posted October 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2021 OH, I understand now haha. Thanks for the help again. Ordering new hardware as we speak, so this is all very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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