nightwalkerancestery Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 Getting SO close to the end of my restore. I can't complain with the few issues I've had as none of them have been a detrimental issue. However, one of the current ones is the only thing really keeping her from taking a trip down the road. During the restore I replaced everything, everywhere. That means new hard lines...New soft lines...fully rebuilt calipers front and back...New e-brake cables. The whole 9 yards. After bleeding every corner I got pedal feel and it was great, except that I noticed when I depress it slowly, it goes to the floor. Here are the scenarios as of current... Push pedal suddenly, it stops almost immediately. Super firm. Push pedal slowly, it goes to the floor. Push pedal slowly to the floor, bring it back out only PART way, and press again, firm pedal feel at every point no matter how hard or soft until brought completely back out. After the first bleed, I found a small leak at the MC at the block that feeds both front calipers. I fixed the leak and rebled, but I didn't get any air from any calipers. What do you guys think? Air in the MC somewhere? Air in the lines? P.S. I rebuilt the MC with good spare seals. - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Did you bench bleed the MC? If not there may be air in the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) That's the one thing I didn't do. I read about that possibility last night through my searches. I figured doing the two person method of one pushing the pedal and the other loosening the valve would have shot any further air out. That was at least the thought I got from my father. I should have known by now not to listen to him. Lol. I got a TON of air at the start, but that has since stopped and is now just straight fluid. What would be the in-car bleeding procedure be for the MC? I read a few hints, but never found a detailed process. - Charles Edited November 17, 2015 by nightwalkerancestery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Same as a bench bleed just push the pedal slower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 So, instead of pushing the pedal fast to pump it, just pump it slowly a few times to the floor, hold, and release a caliper bleeder, and repeat until straight fluid comes from each caliper? - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Bleeding at the calipers is different. Bleeder open, pedal down and hold, bleeder closed, pedal up. You can make a power self bleeder with a glass jar and a SQ vac pump. Put 2 nipples in the jar cap. I used x2 1.8" pop rivets then drilled through them. Then connect one nipple to the vac pump and the other to a caliper. Start the pump then open the bleeder. Close the bleeder when you get no more bubbles. Be careful and keep an eye on the MC. A power bleeder can drain the MC pretty quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) Maybe I'm getting confused. From what I understand, bleeding the MC in car is to undo the brake lines there with the pedal pressed and then tighten back up once it hits the floor. Fluid goes everywhere, but that's what I've heard on how to do it. Is it possible to get the air that's stuck in the MC out by doing the caliper method you mentioned with the pump? I've got a spare pump that I can easily use. I'll try that regardless. From what I hear, it's harder to get the air out of the MC because it often won't all get to/through the lines. - Charles Edited November 17, 2015 by nightwalkerancestery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted November 17, 2015 Report Share Posted November 17, 2015 Bench bleeding involves attaching hoses to the MC outputs and running them back to the input. Then slowly cycling the MC until there are no more bubbles. Same setup when you do it in car just push the pedal slowly. Once you've done that then you connect the lines to the MC and bleed the calipers to remove air trapped in the lines. Many new or rebuilt MCs from parts stores come with plastic hose barbs that fit on the MC outputs to make bench bleeding easier. If you don't have that then the cheapest/shortest brake line you can find at a parts store will do. Make sure it threads into the MC and cut it to make hose barbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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