87TSiStock Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Any tips or just anything to watch out for when pulling these engines? Any comments can help Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88351wtsi Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Be careful on heater hoses. Don't want to tear up the thin copper/brass pipes for heater core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techboy Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 One of the easiest motors to pull in my opinion. Make sure all you accessories are disconnected as well as the wiring harness. Unbolt the tranny. Hook up your picker and lift straight up to get it off the driver/passenger motor mounts and then pull it forward and up and she should come right out. Just go slow as you would with any engine just in case something is still connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Yeah, ditto on the "one of the easiest motor to pull". Just make sure you disconnect wire harness completely. Best if you pull radiator out. Disconnect down pipe from turbo, disconnect everything on the intake side. Pull out complete engine with accessories, no tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aknorthstar Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 (edited) http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/u546/cjhippie/PoorMansPlasma_zpsdae9b8b7.jpg Edited November 5, 2015 by aknorthstar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 I third the comment of easiest engine to pull. I've pulled everything from 4 bangers to v10s and I've always found this engine ridiculously easy to pull. Like said, definitely remove the radiator. Makes it a thousand times easier and you can flush it while out. Careful on those brass pipes, too, like was also said. If it's an auto, those torque plate bolts will likely be a b!$©# to get out. Be careful not to round them. If it's a manual, then that'll be cake. You can pull the tranny with the engine if it's a manual. It's not that hard. Or you can separate it by supporting the tranny with a jack, unbolting all the bolts, and using a screwdriver to pry it away. It may also help to keep two of the bolts threaded in just a few threads while you separate them. Keeps the casing from binding on the motor. Just take it slow and get a helping hand if you can just to watch for any still connected lines or wires. Mitsubishi did an immaculate job on access and connection types on these cars. If only cars these days were as easy. - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stesir Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 hey Guys:What about an engine going back in? With or without the tranny ?and what to look out for?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntercooledFlatty Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 i like doing it with the trans connected, in or out, but you will need some help if you are worried about scratches and dents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87TSiStock Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Thanks guys! make me feel a lot better about this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Potamus Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/u546/cjhippie/PoorMansPlasma_zpsdae9b8b7.jpg Thats how I do it, but i prefer the hickory handle and not the plastic/fiberglass one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Cary Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 I work in a shop and having a lift makes things a lot easier. I usually drop the trans then take the motor out but keeping it connected is fine. Just depends on your preferences Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) Putting it back in is just as easy. Just watch the oil pan!!!! If it's a manual, I prefer to take it out as a whole. If it's an auto, I usually disconnect them. Bigger transmission and a lot more connections and lines to worry about with the auto. If you plan on taking the engine and tranny out as a couple...DON'T forget to take off the shifter from the transmission case and drain the transmission. Otherwise the transmission will get stuck on its way out and you'll pour a few quarts of tranny oil all over the ground where you'll eventually lay later. Dare you to ask me why I mentioned these annoying facts. Lol. - Charles Edited November 6, 2015 by nightwalkerancestery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebird Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 ratchet wrenches.....love emmm! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zx4AB99YBVM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
questsale Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 (edited) Any tips or just anything to watch out for when pulling these engines? Any comments can helpThanks Disconnect the motor mounts from the frame, not from the engine. Same in reverse, put engine in with mounts attached to the block. Lift carefully, you always forgot some hose, or line.You can easily remove it with the trans attached, just remember to drain it of oil, or plug the shifter hole, and output or oil will pour out. Same back in, always easier with the trans attached. An engine leverler helps, but not necessary. Do need a friend to help it guide. Edited November 7, 2015 by questsale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87TSiStock Posted November 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 i think im just going to leave the trans in the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87TSiStock Posted November 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 can anyone tell me where to connect the chain to hoist the engine out asap? there are 2 brackets that seem right that are on the back of the block by the intake manifold and a bracket by the number 1 spark plug are these correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
questsale Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 can anyone tell me where to connect the chain to hoist the engine out asap? there are 2 brackets that seem right that are on the back of the block by the intake manifold and a bracket by the number 1 spark plug are these correct? You can bolt it through any top bolts holding the timing cover in place, and the top trans bolt in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 (edited) I use a bolt through one of the A/C holes in the bracket and a bolt from the passenger side motor mount. I usually wrap the chain around the mount and secure it with a bolt through two links. That's pretty balanced from what I've done. I wouldn't recommend a timing cover bolt. I feel that as too much of a risk of galling/cracking the timing cover or bending a TC bolt. - Charles Edited November 9, 2015 by nightwalkerancestery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87TSiStock Posted November 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 its out! thanks everyone who commneted and shared their opinions. ONE last questions, what is the size and specs of the transmission bell housing bolts for putting the engine on the stand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 The bolt thread is 10mm x 1.25. The length of them depends on how long your spacers are on your stand. Just measure the spacers and extend it another 1.5" or so. - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
questsale Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I used the timing cover bolts with a washer, no issues. Obviously need to make sure the bolts are 8.8 or better. I think 80mm lenght bolts are good. You might be able to use two of the stock trans bolts to secure the engine to the stand, but need 4 total. Measure the stands standoffs, and add 20mm to the bolt lenght. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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