Stealth R/T Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 I recently acquired a Chrysler conquest tsi turbo, and when I changed my insurance over I found out that the car is an 1988, yet the door says its an 87. Here's my question, if it's a late model conquest, does it have the better ecu and such, I know it has the 87 turbo beacause it only pulls 7-8 psi boost. Any info would be greatly appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 September 87 - August 88 is an 88. The turbo has nothing to do with the boost its putting out. For one, you don't really even know the psi until you get a mechanical gauge to replace the inaccurate stock boost gauge. Two, the 87 ran 7 psi, while the 88/89 ran 7 and 10 psi. It would choose the amount of boost based on the octane level of your fuel by reading knock sensor readings, making sure that 10 psi won't cause harmful detonation. If it does, it'll knock it down to 7psi. The best way to tell what computer you have (other than just comparing the 88 features to the 87) you can look at the computer and check the model number. Who knows...the PO might have swapped it if it wasn't an 88/89 ecu. - Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth R/T Posted October 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Alright, thank you for that info. Does that mean it is a more uncommon car because it is a late model year and also, does that mean the better octane gas the more boost psi i will pull. thanks, zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Not neccessarily, many cars were built in the previous year and sold as the following year. Yes higher octane will allow 10 psi of boost if everything is working correctly on your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth R/T Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Perfect,.i plan to run no higher than 89 or 91 octane to prevent premature ignition as will happen with low compression cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Owners manual recommends 91 or higher octane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 The higher the octane, the better ignition you'll get. If you want to avoid premature detonation (aside from having the car running top) then you should run as high as you can. I've always run at least midgrade and sometimes premium if I could afford it You also have compression relation backwards. HIGHER compression will be more subject to knock. That's why the boost gets knocked down. Less pressure in the cylinders will reduce the likelyhood of knock, while sacrificing power. Have the car running top shape and you'll get the power and no knock. Note that the bit of premature detonation you'll receive from the lower octane fuels will not be noticeable except with boost. Technically, there will ALWAYS be detonation at some point with all fuels whether it be constant or just a hiccup. It's all a matter of frequency. Again, I stress you too get a REAL boost gauge to monitor boost. The stock gauges aren't TOO bad on stock boost levels, but it's a guessing game with them. Get a mechanical boost gauge to slip into the stock location and no more guessing. Might find you've been at 10psi all along! - Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth R/T Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Alright, I'll have to do that. Thank you for the infor, and how hard is it to replace the stock boost gauge?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted October 10, 2015 Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 It's pretty easy, depending on how deep your new gauge is. The Bosch gauges Advance sells is pretty cheap while still being accurate and reliable. Been running the lesser SunPro in my silver car for years and it compares well to the higher dollar one I have. Take the cluster out, remove the stock boost gauge, get your new gauge in the boost gauge hole and clocked where you want it, and look at where the posts hit the cluster housing to know where to cut and drill your holes. The plastic is SUPER soft and can be drilled without problem. Just be sure to cut the circuit film before drilling, of course. Luckily, the holes needed for power and vac source happens to line up with two voids on the circuit board, perfectly easy to cut and drill. Then, you should be able to use the U-bracket that comes with the new gauge to fasten it to the black bezel. There's a much more difficult way for deeper boost gauges, but it's nothing a hole saw can't fix If you need some pictures, I may be able to dig up a spare cluster to map it out for you. I believe there was a write-up somewhere too. - Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth R/T Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Can't I just "unplug" the line running to the boost gauge and run it to a gauge cluster style setup? I plan to mount an oil pressure gauge and a boost gauge on the hood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth R/T Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2015 Idk, it's not my top priority right now, as the car is in the shop and I'm debating on whether or not to pull the motor and replace it with a built 318 or 383 Chrysler motor. Either that or rebuild the orig motor, but whatever is cheaper and more reliable in the long run. I plan to just run the orig motor till it dies and then going from there but it needs a decent amount of minor stuff done to it which mostly involves cleaning and replacing lines, and such. As of now I have to replace the oil cooler lines, flush the radiator for winter, replace valve cover bolts because some are missing, replace some vacuum lines, flush inter cooler and lines, clean turbo out, fix a leaky fuel line, refill the rear diff and replace the seal. Tranny looks like it's seeping, rear of motor looks like it's seeping, fix the secondary air pipe, brakes aren't working right, cv boots are all torn, minor rust issues in the rockers and lower fender and door flare. The interior is a disaster and I have to have music. The motor has had all major work done to it already, but it's all the freakin little stuff that's gonna kill me and I don't know if the cars worth it. Anybodies opinion is welcome on what i should do here lol. Thanks, zach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted October 11, 2015 Report Share Posted October 11, 2015 Fix it or sell it. Just don't scrap it. We're begging you! Lol. Sounds a lot like what I planned to do to my red Starion before it became a full restore. I would stress to keep the Chrysler v8 out. Far too many people just going to v8's (in ALL cars). It's easier and more reliable, but where's the fun in that?! I say stick with the 2.6 or find something more fun and reliable that maintains the challenge. Maybe a RB24 or 2jz, like some others have done. Just some ideas for you. Keep up on the forums here and you'll find those things you need. Check out my radio aux mod thread for your tunes. Works like a charm! Oh, and for the gauge. You could also just put the gauge elsewhere if that's to your liking. Whatever works for you. I personally like everything to look as stock as possible. I'd recommend leaving the stock gauge hooked up even with a mechanical one being used externally. Wouldn't look as tacky as a "dead" gauge. - Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth R/T Posted October 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Im completely fine with keeping the original motor, but what is the cpst to rebuild the majority of it? Like new pistons, oil pump, seals, everything really. Also, the only thing keeping me back is the little bit of rust on the car. The "mud flap" style things have rust on the inside along with rust on the rockers and on the body lines. How much is it to have them replaced? I love the car, just dont want to spend more than 5k on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted October 13, 2015 Report Share Posted October 13, 2015 It all depends on if you're doing most of the work or having someone else do it. I could rebuild a g54b from top to bottom for under 1k easy. But I do ALL the work myself except for the machining. I'm also pretty darn thrifty As for the rust, ospho the pure living CRAP out of all the rust spots. Any rust converter will do, though. Put it in a spray bottle and spray it on every rust spot. It stops and transforms the rust. Then do what you need to fix it. Fiberglass what you can. If you want to replace it with metal, either make your own panel or find someone here with good quarters/rockers that want to sell it to you. You could probably get all spots done for 1k or less. And if you do the nitty gritty body work, you can just pay someone to spray the car when you're done. You can easily get the car done for under 1k. It all depends on your dedication to research for the lowest prices, good parts, and cheap but good work. Sometimes you'll have to pay out. For reference, I'm currently restoring an 87 Starion down to the last nut and bolt and then some. Including the price of the car and the tires, I've spent less than 4k. Somewhere around $3,500. That's nut and bolt and everything in my Signature. ALL work done by yours truly EXCEPT...having one pinion bearing pressed off and a new one pressed on and new exhaust guides put in and seats ground with 5 angle valve job. That's ALL I didn't do. This is a show quality car. It's all about what you're willing to do. Research, research and more research. - Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth R/T Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2015 The problem is I don't have a garage, nor a lot of the tools needed to do a lot of that work. I can do a lot of minor things, but I can't do a lot, and it has to be drivin daily, maybe two days outta the week to work on and then back on the road. My intention is to drive it until it dies then pay my buddy to do a v8 and tranny plus rear end swap and go from there with rest of car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87redcat Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Well welcome aboard anc good luck in whatever plans you make for her. Lot's of info on here about swaps too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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