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Got my wideband installed yesterday....


Preludedude
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Me and my stepdad finally got it put in...

 

Innovate LC-1 wideband w/ blue face...Bought it from a member here like 5 years ago..maybe in a group buy or from a vendor listing...

 

Made a cheap easy mount from a piece of metal...Its wired to a toggle switch, and the led bulb/push button is mounted in the toggle switch housing..That's located under the steering wheel...

 

Car was idling between 12.2-12.3...

Here it is:

 

http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd461/Preludedude1/photo%201.jpg

 

http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd461/Preludedude1/photo%202.jpg

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Toggle stays on anyway. I never turn it off. It's wired to fuse box (ghetto). It's the quickest 12v ignition source I had...I have fuel pump and elec temp gauge on it already...

 

I have another thread opened. Trying to find a better legit source...not wired to a fuse....

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Car has a 1st gen mas. That makes it runs a little richer than normal, right? I'm using it while tryin to get this fresh rebuild running smooth. Before I throw on the gm mas/maft and tune it. Like everyone says here, get it running right before trying to tune with maft.
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So great...today, while driving the car...i got back in car after running an errand...LED didnt light up...I always turn key and let wideband warm up before cranking car...Well, LED light didnt come on....But I had to get home...10min drive...So I probably just cooked the o2 sensor because it wasnt getting power for whatever reason...

 

Time to look...see if I can get an error code off this LED bulb.....

Edited by Preludedude
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Lets try and clear a few things up so everyone is on the same page.

 

Are you running both your oem o2 sensor and the wideband sensor? Where are each of them located on the exhaust?

When you refer to the LED not coming on, which LED are you talking about? Do you have one connected to the error code port?

What makes you think the o2 sensor is damaged from you driving the car 10 minutes?

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I like the idea of using a toggle switch, because blue led anything gets really annoying at night. (maybe my eyes just suck)

I doubt you killed the o2 in a 10min unpowered drive. If anything, leaving the gauge exposed to sunshine may have damaged that. I think I remember seeing problems with older innovate gauges getting cooked in the sun.

Innovate has an awesome warranty, and as long as you aren't trying to take advantage of them, they take care of their products.

If it's the diag light that isn't powering on, that's not good. But it could be as simple as a bad switch, power, or ground. You mentioned ghetto earlier, maybe ghetto failed.

Edited by button
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Lets try and clear a few things up so everyone is on the same page.

 

Are you running both your oem o2 sensor and the wideband sensor? Where are each of them located on the exhaust?

When you refer to the LED not coming on, which LED are you talking about? Do you have one connected to the error code port?

What makes you think the o2 sensor is damaged from you driving the car 10 minutes?

 

stock o2 sensor is installed right behind turbo hotside in the downpipe....wideband is installed about 10" below on the downpipe The LED light is the one that flashes while wideband is warming up, and also gives error codes....

 

The innovate manual has plastered all over "do not run engine if o2 sensor is not hooked up or getting power, it will damage the sensor"

 

So I wasnt sure if driving the car home with it powered off would harm it..

 

ANYWAYS, I just went outside and checked and wideband is working fine...Why it didnt power up earlier, I dont know.. Ill double check wiring...

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Ok that clears up a lot of questions I asked myself as I read your post. It sounds like you may want to wait to drive the car until you get all of your wiring done correctly. All three of those things you have wired to one source are drawing power and all three of them are important either for information or for the car running correctly. If it was me I'd park the car, do some research, and then properly wire everything with a dedicated circuit so you know you won't have issues.

 

And button is probably right, driving the car with the wideband not running probably didn't cause it any damage. Long drives or hard pulls? Probably, but not a 10 minute drive home.

Edited by speedyquest
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