sn8kes Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 I've fixed all other issues that's become of my quest but this one. And have been trying to fix this issue for awhile now. When starting the car- there's white thick smoke. Smells sweet- goes away after driving for 30-40 seconds. If I idle does show itself. Turn the car off and start again after 10-15 sec down time and smoke. Oil looks good. No milky/chalky Oil pressure is good. Â What's been done-Block & Head has been Magna FluxedResurfaced deck & headNew Pistons, rings, rods, cam, valve stems, seals, lifters, bearings, seals. Fel Pro Gasket set. New stock turbo. Â Installed new turbo today. Started up and BAM!!- still the white smoke. I'm lost at this point and don't know where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Â Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87redcat Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 youve coved all the basics. oil seperator clogged maybe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC_99 Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Sweet smell = coolant. Â Possibly cracked head or block. Â BC_99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebird Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 take spark plugs out.check them for green spots or you can taste it with your tongue...lol do compression test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sn8kes Posted June 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Wouldn't a cracked head or block show up when we did the Magna Flux? Â Would the oil separator cause coolant to burn out exhaust?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebird Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 best way to test for cracks in aluminum is die pen.its a spray can test kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy larry Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 My 2.6 cents = Cracked head once up to temp the crack seals up and it stops the white smoke.. But it will get worse.. Keep checking for coolant loss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sn8kes Posted June 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Just got three with compression test. All cylinders at 90PSI. Cold motor. Inspected plugs. No moisture of any kind. Used inspection camera cylinder and Pistons look good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sn8kes Posted June 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 So after checking compression. Put back together and started up. Smoke didn't happen on start up this time. Took about min-min n half to start smoking. And steady. Have ideling for about 5-6 min and steady white smoke. Temp is normal at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 90 psi ain't good, even on a cold motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sn8kes Posted June 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Ok-didn't know that. so could that be the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromedome Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Wouldn't a throttle body to intake gasket cause that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Anyplace engine coolant flows is a potential leak - not just the head and block parts. Think about the intake manifold, or a poorly installed intake manifold gasket, or leaks inside the turbo, or leaks between the base of the throttle body and intake manifold. If the gasket surfaces of the intake manifold are not flat then the gaskets won't be able to do their job and you'll have leaks. The base of the throttle body and side of the cyl head also have to be dead flat for the same reason. Folks that don't properly remove ALL traces of old gaskets end up with leaks.  Improperly torqued cyl head bolts can lead to leaks around the head gasket. With only 90 psi compression pressure something is amiss on the basic engine parts: block, head, head gasket, pistons, cam timing, etc. If the head bolts were installed into dirty holes, or if some oil collected in the bottom of the holes (oil in the bottom of the holes leads to "hydraulic lock" preventing the bolt from turning in as far as it should - as though the hole were too shallow), then the torque reading is false and the head isn't installed correctly. Thus the head gasket won't be working properly. Are you holding the throttle wide open during the compression test? If not, you may get lower than correct readings. And inexpensive compression gauges are often not accurate. mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sn8kes Posted June 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 I did not hold the throttle all the way open when performing the test. I have ARP studs not bolts. Not sure if that could still cause the issue your talking about. Intake and exhaust side were checked by the machinist I used to get the work done. I didn't change the gasket on the throttle body though. That is the only gasket I haven't changed. I'm gonna do another compression test holding foot to floor and repost results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sn8kes Posted June 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Just did the compression test again doing how Mike C advised. And reading 113-115PSI to each cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 The ARP head studs & nuts are supposed to be installed with an ARP lube or engine oil lube and then torqued to a different (higher if I remember correctly) value than the factory style head bolt torque spec. Without that lube, screw thread friction and friction between the nut & washer & cyl head post will be excessive while torquing the nuts... i.e. the head bolt+nut assembly will actually be too loose due to the extra friction. Which in turn means the head gasket isn't clamped/compressed enough to do its job properly. Got an air compressor? Rig up a connection to a screw-in style compression gauge fitting. Remove the spark plugs and then rotate the engine so the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Stick the transmission into 4th or 5th gear (stick-shift), set the parking brake and chock the wheels; for auto transmission cars you'll need to attach a beefy wrench to the crank pulley bolt and hold it - keeping the engine from turning in the next step. Then screw the fitting into the #1 spark plug hole and slowly dial up the compressor pressure. Open the radiator cap and look for signs of bubbles in the coolant. No bubbles? Lower the compressor pressure and disconnect the fitting from the spark plug hole, rotate the engine 90 degrees (transmission in neutral for this step of course) so cyl #3 is at top dead center, and test that cyl. Then test cyl 4, then cyl 2 last with the same techniques, rotating the engine 90 degrees between cylinders. If you find one or more cylinders that let compressed air into the coolant you've narrowed down the leak source as block/head/head gasket related. If no cylinder seems to leak, then the problem is more likely in the intake manifold or turbo. mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sn8kes Posted June 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 I will tackle that tomorrow morning. I think I have what I need to make that happen. I'll post results tomorrow. And see where we go from there. Thank you for the help so-far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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