Preludedude Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 (edited) This will be long..But I want to be as descriptive as possible... -Engine is brand new rebuild, and block was vatted and bored...-Radiator was flushed and cleaned and checked and everything was fine-New Water pump-New 180 degree thermostat-No leaks-New braided hoses on turbo coolant lines.-Ebay 2 12" electric fans w/ turn on switch. I think switch is 195 cause thats around when fans come on..They pull good air through radiator and work great as they are supposed too I have filled it 50/50 with green coolant and water...I believe all the air is out of the system... I have driven the car 5-6 times, and everytime the car temp gets to 220ish before I panic and turn car off...I have only put maybe 5-6 miles on the car since it has been fully rebuilt. Here are some pictures of my coolant routing system.. (Water pump sending coolant to turbo and hard line that goes around the block)http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd461/Preludedude1/IMG_4005.jpg (Hard line going to 2 hoses at intake manifold)http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd461/Preludedude1/IMG_3995.jpghttp://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd461/Preludedude1/FullSizeRender_1.jpg (2 12" fans on stock radiator that pull air really well through the radiator)http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd461/Preludedude1/IMG_3997.jpg (Fan switch and temp gauge below the thermostat housing)http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd461/Preludedude1/IMG_4001.jpg QUESTIONS: 1. How do I VERIFY there is no air in the system at all??? Jack car up high and take of radiator cap and top off that way?2. What do I need to check and what steps?3. Do I need to keep letting engine get to operating temp and letting it cool to get air out? I keep reservoir at full every time I park it. Edited June 26, 2015 by Preludedude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 Did you retorque the hg? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 (edited) is the thermo stat in the right way ?? can u see the water moving in rad ??is the timing right ?? do u have a new rad cap ??( 13psi ) a old cap can make a car overheat !! Edited June 16, 2015 by markhansenconquest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 is the vac advance hooked up? Are your fans coming on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted June 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 I have not re torqued the head yet.... Timing is set at 10 btdc as the manual says... Thermostat is in correct way... Yes, water moves in radistor. I've let engine run and see water start to gush out. Trying to let air out... Yes, new rad cap... Vac advance is hooked up Fans come on at 195..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 did you use distilled water or tap water?Distilled is beter for the engine http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1067&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=50 does your tstat have a small hole in it off to the side with like a tiny metal ball? http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/cooling/CS-39E.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/cooling/CS-39F.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/Cooling%20Fan%20Reb/CS-39GA.jpg http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/cooling/CS-173A.jpg A "POPPET VALVE" allows the RADIATOR COOLANT to sneak-up the tempeture.......slowly. It's a ONE-WAY VALVE........SOMETIMES. A 1/16" hole (NO LARGER!) will do the same job. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/silverquest/BlackQuest/quest061.jpg usually i run the engine up to temp with the rad cap off. that way the tstat is open up some. i usually can see water flowing. then i have a friend press the gas a little the water level will drop a little i top it off then cap it and let off the gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebird Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 (edited) your 3rd pic downthat lttle bolt under the small hose......is that not our bleeder?I dont remember but i thought we had one. Also be sure you have the correct gauge wire on the correct sensor.Might be reading high from the wrong resistance?Do you have an aftermarket gauge? Edited June 16, 2015 by freebird Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 Coolant actually flows the opposite way of your arrows, the first picture is the suction side of the pump. These cooling systems bleed pretty well so I don't think its that, I guess I'd take the thermostat out just to see what temp it settles out at without it. 220 F is getting hot but if your current stat is lazy and just getting around to opening it may peak at 225 and then drop once fully open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted June 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 (edited) Yes I did drill a tiny hole in thermostat.... I'm scared to let car run to 225. It's boiling at that time. In the top radistor hose. I can hear it... I may take tstat out and see what temp it runs at... Edited June 16, 2015 by Preludedude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93 GSX TURBO Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 (edited) Easiest and cheapest way to make sure you get all the air out of the system us by using this funnel: http://i724.photobucket.com/albums/ww244/partsturbo/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsvbhm1php.jpg I've noticed that you pick these up at your local parts stores now. This is the method I always use: Put the funnel on with coolant about halfway up the funnel. Turn the car on with heat on max and let it stay like that for about 20 minutes. After 20 minutes turn the heater off and let the car idle until the thermostat opens up (upper radiator hose gets really hot hen this happens). Keep an eye on your coolant level inside the funnel and add as needed. After the thermostat opens up, get back in the car and hold the revs around 2k rpms for about 20-30sec and let it off and let idle again. Look back in the funnel and you shouldn't see very many bubbles coming up to the surface anymore. Turn the car off, remove the funnel and make sure your reservoir is up to its correct level. I've used the above method on just about any car I work on (domestic-euro-import) and it has always worked well for me. I'm sure other have different methods but it's just a suggestion. Since you have gone through your heat cycles, I would go ahead and retorque the head. Edited June 16, 2015 by 93 GSX TURBO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93 GSX TURBO Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 Also I don't know how well your fans run but if you can, put the oem primary fan back on. Most oem fans move a lot more air than the aftermarket ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift_king Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 x2 to bleeding with the spill free funnel. I'd check if you installed your thermostat in reverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 X3 bleeding with a spill free funnel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted June 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Tstat is installed correctly..... I think it may have to do with aftermarket fans...they are installed on right side of radiator...but blades may be reversed somehow? may not be pulling like it should....I will take a look at this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93 GSX TURBO Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 Tstat is installed correctly..... I think it may have to do with aftermarket fans...they are installed on right side of radiator...but blades may be reversed somehow? may not be pulling like it should....I will take a look at this... At least swap the primary for now. Does the car only overheat when you go drive it and not at idle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted June 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 At least swap the primary for now. Does the car only overheat when you go drive it and not at idle?I did let it idle one time for about 15min and it stayed at 195ish. So it didn't. But it always gets hot when I drive. The 5-6 times I've driven it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted June 17, 2015 Report Share Posted June 17, 2015 I was looking at some of those pictures you posted and I have a couple suggestions/ questions, Where is your vac advance hose to your dizy, and are you using a single fuel pressure regulator ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted June 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Update: Going to swap radiator out. I had it flushed and pressure checked and was told it was good. It seems clogged possibly. With cap off, and revving engine, it wants to gush out like a fountain like it's not able to flow smoothly... I'll update post with results in a week or so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Did you do a compression test or a leak down test to see ifThat is in order? Bad gasket or crack somewhere mightCause problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted June 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 I did a comp check a few weeks back. 155-160 across all 4. I'm using the metal ajusa hg. All is well there..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim_C. Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Revving shouldn't have that much affect on it. The water pump doesn't have that much power. That indicates cylinder pressure getting into coolant passages. You should do a leak down check with a compression check again.Could be a clog, or TStat not opening, but most likely a larger problem such as wrongly routed hoses, etc..Even if I don't use the heater, I like to keep it all plumbed as stock. The heater core is basically an emergency added cooler for the system. Run the heater if engine is getting hot because it helps to cool it.If the timing is not advancing, it will run extremely hot through the exhaust and heat up the engine.If the new ring seal is a bit too tight, it can heat up until they seat and loosen up a little especially on engines that are bored out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-point-water-d_926.html Why are you freaking when the temp reaches 220F?You have a new radiator cap? (12lbs)Sea level atmospheric pressure is 14.69 and you add 12 and you have a boiling point of around 245F The thermostat doesn't open until 220 with a 195 degree stat because of the pressure variance. Preludedude you know the legendary Honda dude don't you? You're not him are you? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Preludedude Posted June 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 Update: Going to swap radiator out. I had it flushed and pressure checked and was told it was good. It seems clogged possibly. With cap off, and revving engine, it wants to gush out like a fountain like it's not able to flow smoothly... I'll update post with results in a week or so... Ordered a cx racing alum rad. Will update and see if it fixes the problem of overheating... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted June 18, 2015 Report Share Posted June 18, 2015 (edited) good job that rad is great......tight fit ,, but u can still run the A/C fan too with out the wire cover on it.. one of the best things u can get to save your car !! Edited June 18, 2015 by markhansenconquest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 I did let it idle one time for about 15min and it stayed at 195ish. So it didn't. But it always gets hot when I drive. The 5-6 times I've driven it When you did the engine rebuild did you flush out the engine oil cooler and test the engine oil cooler bypass valve (engine oil temp thermostat) located in the oil filter adapter housing for the oil cooler yet, see FSM Page 9-52, piece No. 7? Remember, with a CLEAN operable engine oil cooler system, that it removes about 15 - 25% of the engine heat of friction & combustion. Guess what happens if the engine oil thermostat has gone to Starquest Heaven? The engine oil cooler is inoperative and ain't removing the engine heat from the oil and consequently the engine. In the below link, altho the pictures are gone, PQ states that when he tested a good G54B T oil cooler bypass valve - it was shut, bypassing the oil cooler system, until it started to open at 2150 and was fully open at 2500 F. Ya might wanna check that. To test it get a electric hot plate, oven cooking thermometer, a deep metal pot and about a quart or so of engine oil and see when your bypass valve starts to open and is fully open. DON'T USE A OPEN FLAME TO HEAT THE POT CUZ YOU MAY IGNITE THE OIL OR IT'S FUMES. http://starquest.i-x...37066456750aaf4 For What it's Worth. KEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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