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Destroyed spark plug means what? (W/pics)


movin on
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First off, I just got my car running as well as it has in three years and then I received some crappy news. I had let my brother borrow my car, so I could use his truck for my wife and I to use. The only running issue the car had, was if it got to about 15 psi, the synapse BOV would sputter very quickly, so the car wouldn't accelerate. I had this happen once on the way to drop the car off, so I drove it easy without that issue happening again, and told my brother to keep the boost low if he drives it. Well, I go to pick up the car today, and he tells me that it has been idling very rough, as if running on three cylinders. He thinks the plugs are bad, so we take them out and one spark plug looks grey and very corroded. It is missing metal chunks from the head that gets gapped in a few different places. At this point in the night, I refuse to start the car until I drain the oil to see if there are any chunks or shavings. He then proceeds to tell me that he purposely boosted the car to see what this sputtering sounds like. The car ran well when he first drove it, than he drove it for what I am guessing is five to six miles after the issue started. He said the car runs smoother with a little boost, but runs bad with low rpms. What can I expect from this? What else should I look for besides the oil, or should I just wait to check the oil? Edited by movin on
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Spark plugs get destroyed for 2 reasons. 1 chunks of metal in the cylinder from broken parts. 2 detonation. Your problem is most likely detonation. Change the plugs but do a compression test first. If the cylinder with the bad plug has low compression then you have a problem. Detonation can blown a HG, crack the block, crack the head, break piston rings and break pistons. Most likely you may just have a blown HG. But detonation bad enough to break spark plugs can break other stuff. So keep your fingers crossed.

 

 

Detonation bad enough to break a spark plug is something any driver would notice. Your brother should have backed off and not boosted it like you asked him to. He broke it. But it wasn't running right to begin with when you loaned it to him. Personally I would have dialed down the boost BEFORE handing over the keys. Or not handed the keys over at all. Sorry if any of this sounds harsh but people breaking other people's stuff intentionally is kinda irritating.

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I doubt you would find anything in the oil, as the problem happened in the cylinder. I would skip that, and compression check while the plugs are out. And then install fresh plug or plugs. The plug may have been damaged for a while, and the cause off the sputter.

 

An engine can often survive a broken plug or melted plug with no apparent damage.

Edited by StarquestRescue
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there's a set of used JVE kit/plugs in parts for sale. :)

 

was going to post a link but there already pending sale... sorry

Edited by 87redcat
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No JV's, forged pistons, shot-peened rods, o-ringed block, etc, etc. I lost some sleep last night because of this, but I am sure that many of you understand. There is around 18k miles on the motor, as I had purchased it from another member. Edited by movin on
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That doesn't look like detonation to me. That looks like that cylinder was running too hot. First things I would check are, is your engine overheating, is your timing set correctly and are you running lean? If you don't have a wideband O2 meter you should get one.
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78, 65, 92, 89 are the cold compression numbers. I will be pulling the head soon to check for additional damage. My fuel system consists of walbro 255, am for w/ a kegs fp gauge, trilogy 650/950, and an AEM Ueogo. My brother said the car didn't overheat, but based off of the spark plugs, it ran lean. He feels pretty bad and is willing to help and pay for parts.
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Yeah, it looks to me like there may be some ring land damage with small pieces of aluminum loose in the chamber. Forged pistons are very resilient, but they can crack a ring land, or even crack a skirt if they detonate. The sputtering is something that is very easily mistaken for something else, such as the BOV, when really it is a subtle detonation. These engines are known for that.

You should really do a leak down test first, so you can either rule in or out leakage to certain areas such as chamber to oil pan, intake, exhaust, other cylinders, etc...

If it doesn't leak into the pan, then the rings and ring lands should be fine.

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Those compression numbers are awful. Something's definitely wrong here, or it's time for a rebuild regardless.I'm running around 120psi in each cylinder running stock compression, never mind higher aftermarket piston compression. Do a leakdown test as well if you can.
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Check for cracks between the valves. Also pull the gasket off and check for cracks around the head bolt holes. Did you do a leakdown test or squirt a teaspoon of oil in the cylinders and re-check the compression? If you didn't then you can't know for sure if it was valves or rings until you pull the pistons.
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No, none of the shops around here have a leak down tester for me to use, bit I did order one. The gasket should of been off in the last two sets of photos. I will check it some more, and also check to see if my surfaces are flat.
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What cylinder had the bad plug? What cylinder had the lowest compression.

I would look at the cam for lobe damage.

Spray carb cleaner behind the valves when closed to see if some leak worse then others.

 

I think your gauge is off, but one was lower then the rest.

 

Did it still miss with new plugs?

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Unless it was overheating or pressurizing coolant, dont worry about looking for cracks. Take the head in and have them vac test your valves to make sure they are seating.

 

That will tell you wether or not valves are the issue. Id also suspect that comp tester not being right.

Edited by Funky Phil
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Counting from back to front, the first one tested 78 and the second 65. The third one, which had the highest compression, has the build up on the valve and the bad plug. If you look at the head photos from the top down as they are listed, the numbers are 78, 65, 92, 89. So the dryer looking photos are the higher compression, and the wet ones are the low compression.

 

As for heat, I was told the mechanical gauge never went over 200 degrees. I never ran the car after the incident, because I drained the oil as soon as I found out.

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