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What did you do to your Starquest today?


Alsandr
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I swapped out my ETACS in hope it would fix my problem with intermittent wipers pausing mid-swing.

 

No success.

 

Take the cover off the wiper motor. It's just 3 small screws. There are electrical contacts in there for the auto park feature. The grease in there gunks up after 20+ years. Clean the old grease out, clean the electrical contacts and re-pack with fresh grease. That will fix your wipers.

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I swapped out my ETACS in hope it would fix my problem with intermittent wipers pausing mid-swing.

 

No success.

make sure the middle top bolt on the motor assembly has a good ground, it wont function correctly without it

Take the cover off the wiper motor. It's just 3 small screws. There are electrical contacts in there for the auto park feature. The grease in there gunks up after 20+ years. Clean the old grease out, clean the electrical contacts and re-pack with fresh grease. That will fix your wipers.

mine was the same way, but cleaning the internal assembly didnt help at all

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The etacs sends a 1-2 second pulse to start the wipers. After that it's the mechanical contacts in the wiper motor that power the motor through it's full sweep then park. Bad grease is the most common problem. Bad wiring connections, fuses etc can also be suspect. Usually when the etacs is bad the wipers wont stop. It's the classic sign you shorted out the etacs by connecting the battery backwards or a short in the harness.
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Took the clutch pedal bushing kit, pivot, and Nissan X-Terra M/C pushrod and rod end outside in the heat to fix my sloppy clutch pedal. Before the fix, I had to push it to the floor to disengage the clutch. There were about 4-5 inches of movement at the pedal before the pushrod began to move. Lower pivot was a little hogged out but mainly it was the stupid stock rod end compressing instead of pushing the pushrod.

 

I pulled off the stock rod end with the rubber thing inside and tried to put the Nissan end on, but no-go. The Mitsu pushrod is too short so you'd have to replace it with the Nissan one. Never mind the hellish experience of contorting myself (I'm 6'3") to get under there, aim the light, and try to use two hands.

Changing out the pushrod while the M/C is still in the car is nothing I want to ever try to do, there aren't enough curse words.

 

I went to plan B and ripped the stock rod end apart and took out the squishy rubber donut, and replaced with a stack of washers. Used a hammer and socket and put it back together. After installing the modded stock rod end and adjusting, the clutch disengages about halfway down the pedal's travel. I stopped there and didn't even change out the upper pivot bushing/rod. The clutch works perfectly now with no noticeable slop!

Edited by Fuze
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My buddy seems to think we can finish my car and get it running today after work. I don't have much faith but we'll try like heck and if we don't get there it should only be another day or two at most before it does. Light at the end of the tunnel finally!
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Drove it to work for the first time in a long while. Got home and started putting some interior pieces back on for my company coming to town to borrow.....eeekkkk...cross my fingers they don't break something major. Not too worried, it's only Project Palermo, not my prized quest. Plus I beat on her pretty hard, so I think she's up to the task. Gotta fix the turn signals, stopped working out of the blue and debating fixing/ charging the AC before they come. Don't want them too comfortable haha
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Take the cover off the wiper motor. It's just 3 small screws. There are electrical contacts in there for the auto park feature. The grease in there gunks up after 20+ years. Clean the old grease out, clean the electrical contacts and re-pack with fresh grease. That will fix your wipers.

I read that in another thread after making the swap and that's my next plan of attack. Thanks for the advice!

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As I expected I came up short--my buddy had other plans after a little while anyway so I was flying solo for a while. Also realized that I forgot to put the flex plate in behind the flywheel so the fly and clutch have to come back off. Oh well. I'll take my time a bit more this time. So it's flex plate, flywheel, clutch, trans, shifter, battery, upper IC pipe, coolant hose, MS wiring, and all fluids and the car should fire.
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As I expected I came up short--my buddy had other plans after a little while anyway so I was flying solo for a while. Also realized that I forgot to put the flex plate in behind the flywheel so the fly and clutch have to come back off. Oh well. I'll take my time a bit more this time. So it's flex plate, flywheel, clutch, trans, shifter, battery, upper IC pipe, coolant hose, MS wiring, and all fluids and the car should fire.

Unless I'm mistaken (which I could be) I was under the impression that a flex plate is meant for an automatic transmission not a manual.

 

 

He's saying flex plate but he probably means block plate. The block plate is the sheet metal spacer between the block and trans. Kinda have to put that on before the flywheel and clutch.

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Yeah I meant bellhousing spacer, my bad. Either way it sucks and I gotta yank that stuff off. On the upside though it still looks like 2 more visits to my buddy's house (where the car resides) for it to be ready to start. Edited by polarisman14
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no fun removing and installing a trans alone in an apartment parking lot with the car on jack stands.

 

My exact situation but substitute apartment parking lot with 1 car garage. Only difference is if I wanted my legs out the side they'd have to be going up the wall :D

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As long as we are commiserating I R&R 'd the transaxle out of my Grand Prix in the sand, on a slight hill and alone. You have to remove the entire cradle to pull the trans, I had one standard jack and a scissor jack to put it in. Makes one appreciate a concrete slab..
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I drove the crap out of it today! Darn near 500 mile round trip on one of the hottest day of the year 110 degrees!

 

Thanks to Gribbs for the free StarQuest parts! I will surely put them to use.

 

In the return trip loaded with a StarQuest block, cyl head and other parts, a full tank of fuel and me and my lead foot!

 

Only issue I encountered was the fuel tank pressurising from the heat. The fuel evap system could not keep up and it smelled like fuel by the charcoal canister.

 

I twisted the fuel cap off to depressurize and drove back with it basically off.

 

On the road I got a few admirers, thumbs up, a guy at a gas station took pictures because he always wanted one and a homeless guy who said he worked for Chrysler when they came out new!

 

It was a good day.

Edited by louswheel
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Thursday I took off work with my 3 year old son to pickup another 88, makes 3 now. This one is red with black interior. Spent a few hours and 3 tanks of gas in pressure washer to clean off tree sap.

 

Friday back to work but stopped by transmission shop after work to find that I need the transmission drums, why overdrive is out. So to blow off steam they said I could drive it and bring it back. First 3 gears seem fine up to 95. Did a few doughnuts in the parking lot next door before dropping it back off.

 

Saturday night after work I checked compression to find 2 & 3 low on the newest addition. Wasn't running when I bought her. Got her running and had compression in cooling system so pulled the head to find 8 ARP studs only finger tight the other 2 I had to use a wrench on.

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Got the spacer plate, flywheel, clutch, trans, and driveshaft in yesterday. Going back today to finish up the loose hardware I started in there, install the starter, maybe start running some of the heavy gauge wiring and tidy up the megasquirt wiring. I'd also like to get the fluids in. A couple more afternoons and I should be ready for the startup and hopeful maiden voyage!
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