Threedoor Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 (edited) After sitting for the winter I wanted to move the quest into the shop to start this years work... no dice! With some starter fluid it fires up and then dies. I didn't hear the fuel pump running so tried out jumpering what I think is the fuel pump test connection pictured below: http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s412/ThreedoorSQ/IMG_20130506_140954_307_zps4ece0695.jpg Again, no noise from the fuel pump. The connector is in the front passenger side of the engine bay... is this the right connector? What is my next step for trouble shooting? Thanks, Keith Edited May 7, 2013 by Threedoor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy larry Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 wrong wire for testing the fuel pump.... it is a single wire black with white strip i think and sometimes has a cap on it it is located passenger side by the air cleaner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 if the pump runs check the inj pulse with an led inj tester Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted May 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 wrong wire for testing the fuel pump.... it is a single wire black with white strip i think and sometimes has a cap on it it is located passenger side by the air cleaner Ahhh, using the right connector would probably help! I saw that single wire connector in the same area, but the service manual said to jumper the connector. When I read "jumper" it is to connect two wires together. Do I need to ground that connector to test the pump? Also, any idea what I was short circuiting on the connector I was messing with? Thanks, Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 The single wire (black with white stripe) bypasses the fuel pump relay. 12v + to that wire will turn on the pump. The 2 wire connector you tried is the high altitude timing connector. You ground that connector when setting the timing above 3,900 feet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted May 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 Thanks for the information! Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 or it was the connector for the cruise control Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted May 8, 2013 Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 or it was the connector for the cruise control The cruise control actuator has 3 wires. The one in the pic has 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted May 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2013 or it was the connector for the cruise controlThe cruise control actuator has 3 wires. The one in the pic has 2. My cruise is still hooked up and operational as of last year, the connector I initially used had a cap on it. Still no joy on the fuel pump. Next step is to directly access the pump and put 12V to it. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted May 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 Pulled the top cover off that accesses the top of the fuel tank, I am pretty sure the connector I have here is for the fuel pump. http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s412/ThreedoorSQ/IMG_20130508_181626_888_zpsd457d001.jpg When 12V is applied I here a clunk, same as I faintly heard when applying 12V to the test connector in the engine bay. I assume this points to a failed pump. I already have a new pump, just haven't installed it yet. Do we have a good thread on "how to" for a fuel pump replacement? Thanks, Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 Pull fill tube off side, take bolts out of tank, tank comes down lol. Unplug that connecter first though lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 You can try switching the polarity on the pump a few times to rock it back and forth to see if it frees itself. The pump might just be gummed up from sitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopDawg_43 Posted May 9, 2013 Report Share Posted May 9, 2013 (edited) Pull fill tube off side, take bolts out of tank, tank comes down lol. Unplug that connecter first though lol Don't forget to disconnect the fuel line going to the pump, before you lower the tank. If you don't disconnect the line, the tank can not be lowered far enough to remove the pump. Edited May 9, 2013 by TopDawg_43 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted May 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 I tried back and forth a couple times since I didn't know what terminal was positive and what one was negative. I hate to swap pumps right now because tank is just about full. I will try bumping the pump back and forth a few more times. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted May 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2013 Update: After charging the battery I was using as a pump tester over night, and clunking it back and forth a few times I got the pump working! Put the connector back together and the car started up on the first turn of the key Thanks for all the help trouble shooting this problem guys, this kind of support is what makes the forums great. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted May 11, 2013 Report Share Posted May 11, 2013 i would probably still replace the pump, it may leave you stranded somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 11, 2013 Report Share Posted May 11, 2013 strange the last time I tried reverseing the pump wires it pop'd the diode ( little blk box thingie near the pump) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted May 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2013 strange the last time I tried reverseing the pump wires it pop'd the diode ( little blk box thingie near the pump) That black box is on the other side of the connector from the pump... How did you pop it applying voltage to the pump? Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threedoor Posted May 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2013 i would probably still replace the pump, it may leave you stranded somewhereYup, I have the new pump already. I had planned on replacing it when I do the rear 5 lug swap. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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