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Timing Chain In Car?


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Hey guys,

I have been doing a lot of reading on the timing of these cars as I need to complete this job. I was simply curious all of the posts about the timing chains being replaced, the engine is always out of the car. Is it possible to replace the timing components while the engine is still in the car? I know is sounds like a dumb question and I am feel sort of stupid asking it but I was simply curious. It appears to me that I would have the room but I am not quite sure. Finally going to revitalize the old lady after having to sit the winter in the garage. New injectors, injector clips, timing components, and turbo rebuild. Excited to get her back on the road! :)

 

Thanks for the help

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If you haven't already, download the factory service manual and start studying it, getting yourself familiar with the car and engine:

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=124229

 

The crank seal is in the timing cover, and you need to pull the timing cover off to change the timing components. It's a simple rubber seal that pops in, but needs to be done carefully so it doesn't bend. Autozone or similar rents the tool that you need, for free. Or it can be done with a block of wood to evenly press it in... just depends on your skill level.

 

I wouldn't pull the engine, that's a lot more work than is needed. Plenty of access with the radiator removed.

 

As far as other stuff to pile on and buy (lol), water pump, radiator hoses, oil pick up tube o-ring, balance shaft elimination... but these really depend on the condition of the engine. Why are you needing to redo the timing anyway??

 

P.S. It's not a dumb question, don't be afraid to ask... plenty of long time members who don't know how to wrench on here lol. Remember to be less afraid of using the search function before asking though.

 

-Robert

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Now you really do not have to pull the engine i did this job in my drive way i have done my timing 4 times over the last couple of years when doing the head and s*** with my engine still in the car the way this go's you need to pull the radiator out take off the intercooler piping if it is any way or form in front of the engine blocking the timing cover now you are going to have to replace the oil pan gasket and head gasket if you try to just take the timing cover off with out pulling the head you will scratch the bottom of the HEAD. (not good) so un-do exhaust from compressor housing remove turbo piping and filter box disconnect all components from intake manifold pull head bolts pull the intake manny,head,exhaust manny all together at once will be a lot easier after that loosen all the oil pan bolts take the front ones out all the way out. then pull the a/c mounting brace out and un-bolt power steering from timing cover then you are ready to pull the crank pulley ( now i do this job by MYSELF in my driveway--WITH NO POWER TOOLS--Put the car in 5TH gear and lock the E-brake the crank bolt will pop right off) (Now do not forget to take it out of gear when putting it back together other wise you will find yourself fighting with it trying to get it TDC ) after you get the crank pulley off pull all the timing cover bolts out and you are good to go to replace you timing when i did my timing last it took 1 full day but it is faster then pulling the engine I think personally. Don't hold me to that it might be faster with a hoist don't know i have never owned one to use i just did every thing by hand the old fashion way

 

SORRY I DONT HAVE A GARAGE,AIR TOOLS,POWER TOOLS,LIFTS,NOTHING-just hand tools I do every thing buy hand so if you want to do the basic's while in the process of R&R (remove&replace) I'm that person.

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I had read in another post about the timing that the head did not have to be removed, so you are saying this isn't true? Pulling the head isn't a huge deal, but I had read that I didn't have to pull it and I would like to leave it that way if possible... I need to redo the timing because I have a tensioner problem of some sort, I can the hear the slack of the chain making an odd noise behind the cover. Also, oil pressure is very low, so I need to drop the pan and make sure there are no serious problems with the motor as well as check my oil pump to make sure it is within tolerance.
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Do not base oil pressure solely on the stock gauge, it could be clogged up, plus its not accurate anyway. Its function is to show oil pressure rising and falling, it does that just fine.

 

Hook up a mechanical guage to test it.

 

-Robert

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Okay good to know. I was planning on dropping the pan anyway, should I just leave it off to take the timing cover off? Would that always help with clearance? Also, would you suggest replacing the stock oil pressure gauge with a mechanical gauge to get a more accurate reading? I am in no way planning on making a racecar, just a simple car to drive on the weekends.

 

Thanks

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Stock gauge is fine to let you know there is oil pressure and it's rising accordingly. Remove the stock sender and inspect it for clogging, carefully use a small drill bit to clean it up.

 

If someone "rebuilt" the engine before they may not have replaced the pick up tube o-ring, or they misaligned it when reinstalling... either would cause low oil pressure.

 

Removing the pan requires some finesse when in the car but it is doable, do a search to find out the tips and tricks. If it's not leaking then I wouldn't mess with it. All you need is a little bit of clearance to help ensure the head gasket doesn't get crunched like the other poster was referring to.

 

-Robert

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And once you have the chain back on, don't get nervous when you spin the motor over and the shiny link doesn't re-line up w/ the dimple on the cam. I thought it was supppsed to and mine didn't .... I was freaking out until I read that it won't.
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Thanks a lot guys feeling much better about this now. I was told the engine was "rebuilt" less than 10k miles ago. Whatever that "rebuild" consisted of I don't know for sure, I tried to get the information out of the previous owner but he didn't seem to know either :( and there I was thinking I was getting a deal with a "rebuilt" motor. I was planning on dropping the pan to make sure there was no serious amount of metal shavings in there.
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