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new owner with some problems


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so i got my new fans in yesterday but now i have a new issue I filled the coolant up started it let it idle a few min. then it blows the coolant back out the radiator i'm thinking head or gasket not sure going to pull the top end off and do it again and see were i screwed up at least this time im going to make sure every thing is straight at the shop and machine if need to. maybe i will be able to get the intake to seal up then but im going to do every thing again i found a full gasket kit i am pretty sure it is the correct set so i guess i am once again going to tear it all down and start from scratch but at least this gives me the chance to go ahead and clean the engine bay again im going to go ahead and pull the rest of the a/c components out since i don't use the a/c but i am keeping all the parts in-case i change my mind i can re-install it all but it will open it all up for me to clean and repaint everything make it all look good then i can put it back together and see what happens hopefully i don't blow coolant out any more

 

also found one from rock auto a few dollars cheaper its the full engine gasket set

 

http://www.ebay.com/...1764ee5&vxp=mtr

Edited by seans87Quest
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also was wondering about head studs was curious about the arp studs compared to the standard studs what are the differences can the arp's be re-used if needed since i seam to be pulling this thing apart so many times its going to get old buying new studs every time.

 

if the arp studs can be re-used i guess it would be worth the price

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Stock head bolts are reusable.

One way to tell if head bolts are reusable is to look how they are tightened.

If the manual says to torque the bolts and then give them an additional turn to some degree, those are "torque to yield" and they are not reusable.

If you just torque them to some specific value and thats it, they are reusable.

Having to go back and retighten the bolts after a couple heat cycles does not mean the bolts can not be reused. (Don't confuse that with torque to yield)

 

If you are going to pull the head off and replace the head gasket, just buy a new head gasket. You don't need a full kit.

One trick I always did was pull the head with the intake and exhaust manifolds still attached.

It either takes two people or pull the hood off and get up top with a foot on the inside of each fender.

Saves a crapload of hassle trying to get the manifold off.

 

Head studs are nice, but you will need to clearance the valve cover for them.

Another very minor issue is it takes a little finagling to get the head past the timing gear.

Id recommend head studs, but at this point, get the car on the road and get the studs later when you do some other upgrades.

Edited by Richie_Rich
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well my issue is that not only is the coolant blowing back out but it is a milky color also with spots of OIL in it so im not sure what is wrong. I should have taken the head to the machine shop before i put it on the car motocam360 informed me that i should have it surfaced before use and I did not listen just wanted it running so i am going to have the head resurfaced hopefully this fixes the problem with oil in the coolant and the coolant blowing back out.
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  • 2 weeks later...
does any one know about the option codes and what the options codes = i have o8x and c75 im not sure what these options are but i do know there is a tow package does not look aftermarket and looks old like over 20 years old (clean welded not bolted on) not sure if this was a option or not but i think its pretty cool that i can use my quest to haul my jet skis
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so today i pulled out my radiator and flushed the block and s*** came out milky and oily going to start tearing the top half off and get ready for my gasket set to come in so i can do it all again also found a cam gear holder since my block dos not have one dumb A** took it off when they worked on the car. Edited by seans87Quest
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so pulled my head off and go figure i guess when i put the head on i didnt put it on level and ripped the back of the head gasket bad so i guess i figured out where i went wrong ordered my gasket set today and getting every thing put back together and ready for the road
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thank it has taken alot out of me fix this then fix this then tear it all back apart nut i think im getting the hang of it and im slowing down and taking my time didnt break a single bolt this time even decided to go ahead and put new wire covers over all the wires and clean it up some
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so when i pulled every thing apart to day found that my water ports in the intake manny are leaking into the bolt holes and rusting the bolts that holds the throttle body to the intake also found 2 head bolts also in the same condition so i think i might have cracked bolt holes in the block but i dropped my head off at G&M performance to have the head and intake ran through to see if there are any problems now when the d** rain stops im going to inspect my cylinder head bolt holes in the block to see what i can see in them hopefully no water in them but im not sure what else i can do but do what i do best and fix whatever is broken
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i could not upload any more photos so i added a link to my photo bucket so all who want can follow my restoration progress and hopefully my post could help some one else who has similar problems will have a little bit of help Edited by seans87Quest
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thanks its taken a while for me to get were i am just have to remember to take my time for the fact it is 26 years old things break and snap and well my medicinal marijuana helps keeps me under the rug on aggression,anger,seizures,migraines
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​bummer im so unhappy right now started cleaning my block broke out some 600 sand paper and wet sanded the top of the block and found a crack passenger side water holes around piston 3 i added the photos.

 

http://s1301.photobu.../?sort=3&page=1

 

it does not look real bad not sure if it goes all the way through or not going to have a buddy of mine come out and take a look and do some inspecting this blows get a little farther in and find some thing else

(LIKE EVERY ONE SAYS MOST OF THESE CAR HAVE BEEN MISTREATED USED AND ABUSED)

but i find myself this far in not going to stop now i am going to get her back on the road even if she needs a new heart.

Edited by seans87Quest
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so i made a call to a friend of mine today steven and he has a g54b for me i can have for a few hundred so i guess im going to go over to IL. and go check out the 3 blocks that he has setting around in his garage

 

Also he has mitsubishi script valve covers quite a few of them so i am going to see about picking them all up and those of you who would like a mitsu valve cover i might have quite a few to get rid of they are not polished are not painted they are raw aluminium sitting in his scrap pile i will let everyone know what i bring home and how many

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well i get to go and look at some g54b&tranny combos on Monday for my 87 hope i come home with a prize for my ride another heart for her but im not going to get discourage by this i want her running and driving and im not going to stop till i do Edited by seans87Quest
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  • 3 weeks later...
well so today i was able to get my block and the block i got from a fellow member (thank you brian) turns out its not going to be a simple swap parts from one to the other. My block is .40 over so i have to bore and hone the block i got from brian and work my crankshaft swap my piston into the re-worked block with new rings and bearings get it all back together
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so if its not one thing it another I was driving my 95 civic and the dam water pump broke snapped my timing belt right off and broke the driver side motor mount so not only is my quest broke down now my other means of transport is down to. this sucks im hoping since it is an intermittent motor it didnt crush the valves but my luck just isn't that good so i just sent my car off to the the shop the have the valves checked to make sure i didnt do any damage to the valves and or pistons
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so today i got some news about my 87 g54b motor last week dropped the 2 motors off at the CNC they are bored .40 over, genuine mitsu .40 over pistons,crank balanced,flywheel balanced,the inside of the block is getting surfaced also having the whole thing blue printed from the block to the intake to ensure nice good flow of all fluids this block is going to have 20% more power then when it was dropped off i would put money on it.

 

for those of you who dont understand. now when i say the inside is getting surfaced the inside of any block is not smooth due to the casting. my block is getting smoothed and sealed on the inside.the inside of my block will be as smooth as the glass i guaranty should be back on the road buy the end of the month or in sep. hopefully

 

also going to do a dyno test to get the numbers and post them not going to do a MPI set-up yet but we will see. My guys know how to make power appear out of the smallest things. we will push it till the intake cant produce anymore.

i will now be running my rebuilt 12A converted to a 16C on 12-15 psi on a 3" ls1 mas conversion 2.5 diy exhaust turbo down

 

​also got my civic back NO damage i was surprised

Edited by seans87Quest
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