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new owner with some problems


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So yesterday i went to Illinois and was able to get a center link relay rod and even was able to find a turbine housing that need a new home on my 87 since i have a properly hanging exhaust now it is not pulling down on the turbine housing i should not have to keep replacing turbine housings after i get the housing replaced i need to figure out why the oil is leaking and from were it is leaking but was able to eliminate the emissions tube from the exhaust to give me a little more room to work on it now im going to re-torque the head bolts to see if that is why it is leaking just a tad bit in the back left corner and a new

o-ring on the distributor and i got my new water pump in from www.rockauto.com hopefully i can get this thing running and driving hear soon but its to late for the car show i entered it into no big deal though maybe i will catch the next one

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so i bolted the new turbine housing wouldn't you know it leaks around the mounts and it is bubbling im not sure what to do

 

i was told i could put a small amount of silicon gasket sealer on the new gasket i put on the manny

but i wanted to ask all of you about what sealant i might be able to if there is any to help the turbo seal a little better.

 

it still sputters a little bit and im not sure why but the turbo now does spool you can hear it and feel it the gauge now says that at idle just under 3 lbs 4,000 rpm just under 8 lbs of boost still going to buy a after market V/B gauge (vacuum/boost just to get a accurate reading of boost levels i am not sure why it sputters and runs rough i am hopping that it is just the seal of the turbo mount but i am not sure

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Man you've gone through alot with with your car in such a little amount of time. Good for you for staying ontop of it.

 

One tip I would say is to pin point exactly where the leaks on the turbine and on the back of the block are coming from. You might have little cracks somwhere like you mentioned.

 

After you found out your tie rod ends are busted did you ever check if your wheels have any extra play (forgot the technical term)? Lift the car up and grave the tire at 12 and 6. Try to wiggle your wheel. Then grave it again at 3 and 6 and do it again. If your wheel wobbles alot that can be where your vibration is coming from. I had that problem on my VR4. I had to replace my Hub.

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yes the wheel wiggles you can move one wheel about 3 inches before the other side moves the (relay bar) that the tie rods connect to is shot the bushings are gone. The head leaks out of the far left corner against the fire wall really hard to see back there but can see it slowly oozing out over the bell housing it still seams like it misses and sputters but now i have another problem while trying to start the car to check the new turbine housing the damn starter got stuck in the start position if i turn the key to the on position the starter kicks on and stays on tried the old hammer trick but no luck does any one know can the starters be rebuilt instead of having to buying a new starter.
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so today was a nice day got my new calipers put on. I got the wheels off i new what the problem was (no bleeders) on the calipers well nothing left of them any ways broke off into the caliper guess it sat and dried out and they froze up but that's why i bought new ones and they even came with complete hard ware kit now i have no fluid leak and the peddle now has some resistance still have to get it up to find the oil pan leak and see about the head leak but im getting closer

 

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Edited by seans87Quest
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yThe head leaks out of the far left corner against the fire wall really hard to see back there but can see it slowly oozing out over the bell housing it still seams like it misses and sputters but now i have another problem while trying to start the car to check the new turbine housing the damn starter got stuck in the start position if i turn the key to the on position the starter kicks on and stays on tried the old hammer trick but no luck does any one know can the starters be rebuilt instead of having to buying a new starter.

 

Are you sure it is the head leaking and not the water line that runs around the block to the intake?

 

Yes, you can have your starter rebuilt, try any shop that rebuilds alternators.

 

Jimmy

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awesome i got a message from another member says he has a good one i can have it for around 35 shipping included. Now when i look at the back of the head it dose not look like water but kinda like oil not from the water lines but actually from the back of the head and down to the bell housing but i havent moved it since i brought it back home im sill going to pull the top off and check the torque of the head bolts when i put it all together i went to 58lbs. and the book said 55-60
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The FSM says to torque 65 to 72 lb. Also make sure you torque them in the correct sequence.

 

The oil down the back of the head most likely is coming from the cam plug area. Pull the valve cover and make sure you use extra rtv around the cam plug in the back and the half moon in the front.

 

Jimmy

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you know come to think of it im not sure if there was a plug on the back or of the cam or not cant remember but i will find out when i get in there but i am under torque on the head bolts i bet thats why it is leaking but im not sure why the oil pan leaks though at idle it does not leak but after driving it get it in my drive way and bam a big a** puddle and spots leading all the way up to the car but im going to get another oil pan gasket and spray some copper gasket sealer hopefully that will help
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so i got to the head today and re-torqued the head bolts they were only at about 53lbs. across the board so i torqued them down to 72lbs. tightened the turbo mount bolts as well checked the oil pan and checked the bolts but the battery is dead so i cant start it to check to see how it runs if it still sputters im not sure were to look next but im running out of time and things to change
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yeah baby it feels so good to drive my quest i broke it out to day runs pretty good strong but not all there i can feel the boost im so f-ing happy to have it running and driving. The head leak is gone since i re-torqued the head the turbo still kinda bubbling out of the mount it just screams when i get into it and im so happy to hear it.

 

thank you to all of you who have sold me parts (TIM-motocam360) and to all of you that have given me advice and hints of different things to look for it has come a long way since i have brought it home thank you all for all the help and advice

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no i loosened them all the way from 1 to 10 then re-torqued them from 1 to 10 wanted to make sure i wasn't going to have to do the job again i still need to swap out water pumps my dripping one for my new one my main concern was getting it back on the road again and i have succeeded with the help and post from other members it gave me a good ideal of what i needed to get the job done. thank you all

 

even though there was a lot more wrong with the car then what the seller told me I wasn't going to let that get me down it has taken longer then i thought to get her going good enough to see the pavement again it feels so good to have one that runs and not just a drive way ornament

 

JAinsworth when i was 16 my girlfriends dad had a 88 starion auto for rally and i used to drive it out around there lake property and ever since then i have wanted a good running quest or starion and now mine runs you guys really know these car very well and i am so glad i asked question on hear before i just took it to a a shop to have them figure out what was wrong and have the work done by them.

: : that could have cost both arms and both legs

Edited by seans87Quest
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also JAinsworth: I had auto-zone tell me that the recommended oil is 5-10 is this right this just seams way to thin for our motors i do not want to do damage to my motor because the oil is to thin what weight oil do you use

thanx

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wow that is crazy that auto-zone was that far off on the oil weight i hope i have not done damage i only ran for a few miles to break in the motor but since i now know what oil i should use i am doing another oil change on it but that is ok cause i wanted to do a flush on it anyways run it with cheap oil to clean it out then drain it and give her good fresh Pennzoil and another fram filter they had a sale going on under 20$ for Pennzoil and fram filter so i bought 5 sets just in case (well and it was on sale) spent under 100$ for 5 oil changes

 

but its the wrong weight of oil

Edited by seans87Quest
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so today is a nice looking day going to swap out water pumps now that my light dripping water pump is now pouring out water so today im going to be doing a R&R and see how she runs I was able to get the turbo mounts a little tighter now the turbo seals great no more leaks blew a water hose off the one that runs around the block the little rubber hose came off found out when i started filling it up heard a waterfall affect and seen the hose hanging put new clamps on dont think i will have a problem it still seams like it still misses i tad bit every now and again. Edited by seans87Quest
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so i got a starter and a center link relay rod from a fellow owner in IL. also got my turbine housing from him as well great guy steven has taken real good care of me.

 

A friend of mine has bought a new tool and wants to see if we cant do a re-build on the center links so if we are successful we will be able to fix the center links

 

My buddy is Mike Christenson the original builder of the concept car for the 83 Buick grand national turbo and also the gmc syclone and the typhoon he is also going to be doing my tuning so im sure my 87 will run great in a few months we are going to do a lot of tuning he wants to get 350 whp out of it so we will see.

but i know its not going to happen

Edited by seans87Quest
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so i just had my 87 towed in and having the a new (to me) center link relay rod installed then getting it tuned and inspected within the week i should be on the road.

i started it today and she purs like a kitten nice and quiet just a little sputter it but feels so good to have it running.

 

I finally got ahold of the the last owner and he tells me the d** thing had been sitting for 3 years when i picked it up he had just started it up every couple of months

Edited by seans87Quest
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​im up and legal baby got my plates and every thing. drove home from the dmv got stuck in traffic and guess what my fans don't work ha. i should have known it got warm got home parked it and the upper radiator hose blew about 2 minutes after i parked it so i bought a new hose and tried to run a constant power to test the fans and got nothing at all. The small fan behind the oil cooled is sucking air out of the radiator and blowing towards the oil cooler i think it is running backwards i can feel it blowing my hand against the oil cooler so im going to pull the small pusher fan and see if the blade got put on backwards but i do not know if this is possible or not but will check Edited by seans87Quest
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so friday i ordered my new cooling fans,oil press. gauge,and a new temp. gauge since recently me oil press. gauge dropped and now just stays below the L

 

 

cooling fans http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1497.l2649

 

oil press. gauge http://www.ebay.com/...67278c9&vxp=mtr

 

coolant temp. gauge http://www.ebay.com/...9bd269f&vxp=mtr

Edited by seans87Quest
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Go to the store and buy the copper oil pressure line. The plastic line does not hold up to the heat.

You will also either need an adapter or tap the port in the block using 1/8NPT.

The adapter is 1/8 BSPP. Autozone used to sell a kit with a bunch of adapters that has the one that will work.

Technically the threads in the block are not BSPP, but that adapter works fine

Edited by Richie_Rich
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