speed racer Posted December 29, 2012 Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 got the mystery noise worked out and lots of other aggrivatiing issues.I have gravity bled clutch system and it still not disengaging enoug.push petal down a 2nd time and can shift(whit engine running).like the slacve insnt pushing the rod out far enough w the first push of pedal.2nd push gives enough travel.Te rod is correct as i reusued te original.new master and slave and hole.line in good shape. my next thing to try is to remove hard line from master cyl and bleed it then re attach slave line and bleed it again. while car was apart had everytfirewall to repaint engine bay and maybe rod to master out of adjustment.Te pin and hole not worn out.looked good when had apart for repaint. the new clutc is a SACHS kit. thanks for the helpfull suggestions in advance.ready to get this thing on the road in next couple days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted December 29, 2012 Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 I have had best results bleeding the clutch with a partner, crack the bleed open when the pedal is depressed and let the fluid squirt out under pressure and rapidly close the bleeder, then depress pedal again. If you have a clear hose pop it over the bleeder and run it into a container and watch for bubbles. Also check the pushrod under the dash on the pedal for excessive play.http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=980&sid=914739b989b1494d34e52a9450b52402 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr-starion Posted December 29, 2012 Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 Ya if everythings new id say the rod under the dash is out of adjustment, i always have to readjust those after i chsnge clutches on older cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted December 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2012 Ya if everythings new id say the rod under the dash is out of adjustment, i always have to readjust those after i chsnge clutches on older cars. Cool.tnx.thats what im thinking now as ive bled the crap outta it a few times and end up w same condition.Just one more thing before i wiggle my way under te dash..Do i need to make te rod longer or shorter by adjusting? I think i made sure it was same length as when i pulled out te old master cylinder but that dont mean it will work wit a whole new setup.Ive also heard I can make a longer rod for the slave and that will remedy it also but its a bandade fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted December 30, 2012 Report Share Posted December 30, 2012 I have had best results bleeding the clutch with a partner, crack the bleed open when the pedal is depressed and let the fluid squirt out under pressure and rapidly close the bleeder, then depress pedal again. If you have a clear hose pop it over the bleeder and run it into a container and watch for bubbles. Also check the pushrod under the dash on the pedal for excessive play.http://starquest.i-x...4e52a9450b52402That never works, the piston in the master displaces about a tablespoon of fluid and the system holds 30 times that so how does moving that little bit of fluid ever make air bubbles travel DOWN and out? All you do is break them up into smaller bubbles then they slowing work back into larger ones and your problem is back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted December 30, 2012 Report Share Posted December 30, 2012 (edited) You MUST first bleed the master. With the hard line off, you cover the line opening, push the pedal and let the fluid spray out around your finger then keep the hole covered so when the pedal is pulled up, the fluid can only be sucked in from the TOP, not sucking in AIR from around your finger or what would be in the line if you didn't take it off. This is why you may have to remove the line from the master and bleed the master first if the master ever ran out of fluid or its full of rusty gunk or is about worn out and isn't working well because you will NEVER get the air back out of the master it bled any other way. The gravity bleed part assumes you FIRST bled all the air from the master. The gravity part is when you keep the fluid from running out and just let it drain out the line and out the slave bleeder but before you tighten the bleeder, gently push the slave rod in a little , hold it in then tighten the bleeder that way if any air was in the slave you just pushed it out the bleeder hole. Edited December 30, 2012 by Indiana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted December 30, 2012 Report Share Posted December 30, 2012 (edited) That never works, the piston in the master displaces about a tablespoon of fluid and the system holds 30 times that so how does moving that little bit of fluid ever make air bubbles travel DOWN and out? All you do is break them up into smaller bubbles then they slowing work back into larger ones and your problem is back. well its helped me before and is better than gravity bleeding and waiting for a trapped bubble to work its way out. the movement of the fluid forces some air out, I have seen it using a clear line before. small or big bubbles whatever its forcing them out = good. To answer your question as to how does it work well when you have someone crack the bleeder open quickly you can operate the clutch and move a lot more than than a tablespoon.Gravity bleeding works most all the time. What I think happens is some bubbles get trapped in the hard line like in a bend or something and the rapid method forces them out. Edited December 30, 2012 by JohnnyWadd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted December 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2012 it may have got air in the master.prob did let fluid get too low.i did initially bleed te master but tink will be easier to bleed it tan contort myself under the dash.I used to be able to do that but not in many yrs.lol.95% of time i have no helper.but off this last wk for xmas and got son to help. I bled out clutch slave in my old bmw by the push the pedal down and crack oipen the bleeder holding the pedal down w broom handle and it worked fine.expected it to be as easy on this thing but nope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted January 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 Ok.Ive bled master and bled the heck outta the slave till im friggin sick.still got the same condition.this is getting old.i got brake fluid all over garage floor.i got decent pedal but the slave doesnt move the clutc fork far enough to disengage clutch on first push of pedal./push a second time and i can shift.i got under the dash and pedal freeplay is half an inch via eyeball metod and the clevis up top is NOT worn out.both the old and new slave rod the same lenght.i reused the old one anyway. does a SACHS clutch require more movement tan the stock one?its a stock replacement.would a longer slave rod fix my prob or adjusting clutch pedal play to almost zero? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted January 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 just after i last posted went and looked under dash around boot onn firewall to see if maybe new master cylinder was leaking.pushed pedal a few more times and restarted car and now for some crazy reason shifted easy w just a little pedal.i even checked to see if floor matt was the prob.nope.pedal still full travel but left out anyway. I dont think i need to bleed anymore or adjust anyting...I NEED A PRIEST..lol.this thing possessed...who knows if will work tmoro... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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