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The reason i chose not to o-ring


19cturbo
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well, here is the reason i chose not to o-ring my engine this time around, actually, im pretty sure im not going to be using the engine this time around. Ive given up on the G54B, not that i have anything against it, i simply have had no luck with it. Its put me through hell and i kept on plugging away at it, its been just a headache and alot of money. I didnt cut corners with the build, and tried to do everything the right way. it just hasnt worked out. Anyway, here are some pics of why ive chosen not to use this engine anymore..

 

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd23/19cturbo/42255E57-F8EB-49C2-B290-3DF500772D87-51043-00002448BDC97921.jpg

 

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd23/19cturbo/25A7F141-35F7-41A1-8725-D41ED105AB23-51043-00002448AEF9A279.jpg

 

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd23/19cturbo/3B7251B8-A258-46A9-AD82-E0BCDAF94135-51043-00002448C536674F.jpg

 

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd23/19cturbo/B8A0F22D-B360-4C24-A086-FDB370D42A98-51043-00002448CB9A823F.jpg

Edited by 19cturbo
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Car has never been run lean, i have a zillion data logs to prove that. the car was never ever ran hot, have 3 gauges, trust me. The engine was built with ARP's. Im not sure what happened with it, nothing i can think of that would have caused it. Ive always checked plugs and never noticed detonation. The tune was done by scott87star and was top notch, in no way shape or form do i believe that had anything to do with it. Ive had nothing but bad luck with the 54, time and time again and always fixed it right. Never spared a time from being cheap.
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Now that is discusting, i feel sorry for you, these motors are money pits here and there but that is alot of damage. Theres nothing worse than building a motor and it failing down the road even though you did everything precise, its happend with me on a 4g63 everything was perfect and it blew up 500 miles later, and i couldnt find out what the cause of it was. The motor was bad luck since i had bought the eclipse along with everything else. Ended up changing every single piece on the car but the shell. And now shes great! I think the thing that hurts the most other than money is the time spent building it and checking everything twice.
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what does the crown of the piston look like? a past overheating is all that is needed for that crack to begin. Given the history of these engines, it prolly has been....many times. the headstud spider crack looks like it came from a hydrolocked stud install.

 

But that cylinder head, looks HEAVILY detonated. Do all the chambers look that way???

 

btw, WB O2 is a cumulative ratio, not per cylinder. 1 lean cyl will be covered by another rich cyl.

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Keep up with the for sale section. There will be stuff there. Also, it's never over heated in my 4 years of owning it. Not sure about the previous owners. Yes it is on the exhaust side as well. Just 2 of the cylinder on the head were bad like that. I can't say what happened. I don't know. But I've got a plan, just need to make it happen.

 

And yes it is 2-3 cylinders

Edited by 19cturbo
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They dont crack often, If it got super hot you would have noticed but it could be severe detonation. Perhaps the machinist did not catch it when you had it built? was it MPI? Edited by lionbull
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Were the head studs installed with thread locker? I think phonko is on the right path. I remember someone a while back had a cracked block and it started around the stud holes. The belief was that the thread locker was preventing the holes from expanding or contract or something of that nature.
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motor swap/thread delete already huh ! :P

^^ LOL...

 

Since you treated it so well, it's a good possibility the previous owners abused it... very common.

 

But I've got a plan, just need to make it happen.

Good luck with your new motor, maybe you should go with twin 19c's for better luck... lol...

 

-Robert

Edited by Komeuppance
Fixed for Scotty.
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