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The reason i chose not to o-ring


19cturbo
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That pitting/melting is detonation. Your ignition was too advanced or your AFRs were too lean, and you kept going with it. Not dogging you, but maybe it was the megasquirt with no knock detection/protection and over-the-internet tuning and not a real dyno shop with real equipment like a headphone knock amp and someone who knows how to tune cars. People always told me my timing was way low, and it was, but raising it caused knock. I was pushing 30+ psi for a long long time, put several thousand miles on it and had ZERO issues. 482 reliable whp no is joke and no mystery. Just good tuning.

 

I did crack the block like you did once, but that's because the #4 injector clip fell off and it went lean (obviously), welded the rings to the cylinder then broke them, and around 15-17 psi without fuel hurts engines.

 

Now, I recommend something with huge displacement, like a stroked out small block LS with a big as turbo (at least 88 mm). Precision just released their latest turbos with new aero (3 years in the making), all new housings and what not. 1400 hp is not too much.

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Those cracks start on the deck and grow into the cylinder.

 

That CC overhang on the head tells me all I need to know. And Det will bring an imperfection to full life as a crack. Sucks it happened. These engines have lived LONG abused lives. when you or anyone overheat an engine, the effects are impregnated into it. 8/10 blocks are in this boat.

This is the same problem EJ25's have.

 

Did you have your block inspected for cracks by the machine shop prior to machining?

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what type of manifold were you running? i know there are a few out there that require a external thermostat like mine does. but all i have read on those is cyl #4 is affected more than 2/3 like your block. Edited by wrngwae
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Car has never been run lean, i have a zillion data logs to prove that. the car was never ever ran hot, have 3 gauges, trust me. The engine was built with ARP's. Im not sure what happened with it, nothing i can think of that would have caused it. Ive always checked plugs and never noticed detonation. The tune was done by scott87star and was top notch, in no way shape or form do i believe that had anything to do with it. Ive had nothing but bad luck with the 54, time and time again and always fixed it right. Never spared a time from being cheap.

 

That looks a lot like my last block. I never did come to a solid conclusion as to why it cracked like that. My pistons showed some serious signs of detonation though, which I believe is the same thing you are seeing there.

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All my years of abusing the hell out of these motors I've never seen someone let a motor detonate that badly for so long. This motors comes in close 2nd to a stock parts car I saw were the wastegate line was disconnected and the owner managed to melt the #2 and #3 exhaust valves off of the motor, of course I think the dime bag of coke we found under the radio probably had something to do with it.
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It's wasn't in a g54b but when me and a few friends were young and dumb. A friend with a no2 kit decided well if no2 is an oxidizer and it works so well, lets try just o2.... he failed to realize no2 has a major cooling effect as well. Full on hitting the pistons with a sledge hammer would not remove them from the block. I think it litterlly welded to the block.

 

Bottom line you got your fun out of it right? Now your moving on. Ive had some lost interest times, and some setbacks but I always seem to come back around and pick the car up again. and bet the OP will too.

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As i recall this engine ate a washer 2 years ago. That caused the pits on the # 3 cylinder wall and piston top. The head was thrashed from the washer and was replaced with a clearwater head.

 

It looks like the head was cut way to much. As there looks to be a lot of head material in side of the fire wall that appears to be detonation scarred. Or was the fire ring pushed out? I can see there was some blow-by past the fire ring. Could you post a picture of the same area of the head of 1 and 4?

 

If there was detonation going on, look for signs on the side of the piston above the top ring, exhaust side. Like this unnamed persons pistons.

 

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff45/StarquestRescue/2010%20Misc/DSC02521.jpg

 

You can see a little on the top, but it appears the detonation in this guys case started on the side. Now what is not know is weather this is old damage from early in the tuning learning curve, or preceded the block failure which prompted the other persons tear down.

 

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff45/StarquestRescue/2010%20Misc/DSC02522.jpg

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All my years of abusing the hell out of these motors I've never seen someone let a motor detonate that badly for so long. This motors comes in close 2nd to a stock parts car I saw were the wastegate line was disconnected and the owner managed to melt the #2 and #3 exhaust valves off of the motor, of course I think the dime bag of coke we found under the radio probably had something to do with it.

 

I agree. This motor was detonated.

 

I got a detonated motor from a parts car too. Block was cracked and forged pistons melted. Head was ok though. Had it cleaned up and exhaust valves changed.

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If there was detonation going on, look for signs on the side of the piston above the top ring, exhaust side. Like this unnamed persons pistons.

 

 

 

Those pics should be in a sticky that defines Detonation. One of those pistons stays in "un-named person's" car as a reminder to think before WOT :P

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