Skullzaflare Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 So you are advocating buying a R154 and then turning around and having it rebuilt (or using it as a core on a MC R154)? A MCR154 is ~$1,600 plus ~$500 for the core..... The last link I posted had a MC thrust washer in the trans and it still let go. That and MC only does rebuilds on the R154. They don't offer a rebuild kit. Supra store does http://www.suprastor...lrbukitfsh.html and that goes for $600- $700.you know, there are some people who do their own work, which eliminates the 1600True, and honestly I do agree with you about paying to play.The main reason I brought up the Rx7 trans is that it can be had for a decent price, bolts up with the right bellhousing, and, uses the SQ clutch. If we are looking for options there is no reason to ignore the RX7 on SQs that aren't running huge power, but, want a trans that is proven to hold power and shift properly at higher RPM (the biggest issue I've had with my 88 5-speed). Paying to Play is the biggest reason that I'm still TBI. When I do go MPI I'll spend money and do it right.strange, my 88 trans i had in my 87 had no issues shifting any gears at 7300rpm on my g54b, what are you shifting at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted October 29, 2012 Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Yeah I know there are people that do there own work, I'm one of them. Personally I feel more comfortable building an engine than a trans. Of course if I had experience building a trans I would have no problem doing it myself. only real issue I have is the 2-3 shift at anything over 4500. 1-2 and 3-4/4-5 are fine. Might be a worn syncronizer...who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Yeah I know there are people that do there own work, I'm one of them. Personally I feel more comfortable building an engine than a trans. Of course if I had experience building a trans I would have no problem doing it myself. only real issue I have is the 2-3 shift at anything over 4500. 1-2 and 3-4/4-5 are fine. Might be a worn syncronizer...who knows.double clutch for 2-3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionbull Posted October 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 I am about to say F it and just go r154.Skullz, what are you running/thinking of running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 I think another thing that we need to remember is that one of the main causes of a gear stripping, regardless or power level, is the flex in the transmission case and transmission shafts causing the gears to have a smaller contact patch further out on the gear surface where it is weaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 I am about to say F it and just go r154.Skullz, what are you running/thinking of running?im on a stock 88 trans right now. i was trying to find a adaptor for the t56 6 speed my friend had, but he sold it before i could find a adapterif i can find a adapter for the w58, ill probably go with that, i like the gearing better, and its a little strongerI think another thing that we need to remember is that one of the main causes of a gear stripping, regardless or power level, is the flex in the transmission case and transmission shafts causing the gears to have a smaller contact patch further out on the gear surface where it is weaker.need better built case, and straight spline gears instead of heli Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Thats what I'm thinking when I build my 85.5 (going to be more of a track/Auto x car and not a street car at all). I am thinking a dog box with straight cut gears should stand up to a lot of abuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hincher Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 if it comes down to money, I was shocked to find the amount of money to select and build the rear end/ driveshaft was equal to building the engine Its amazing to me that guys only think of the latest and greatest camshaft with no concern of the driveline when you build an intake manifold, you start with the exhaust design you intend to use and then the cam profile and then the induction, you gotta know how much air you can move out before you think about packing the engine full of too much air, its the same with the driveline, you start at the back and work forward now if you are going to increase the power output by 50%, you need to improve the driveline by 60% and if you intend to improve the traction by 50% you need to consider the stress on the driveline Having said that, the cost should be thought out to bring the best flexable design for the best amount of money. A major consideration is the front U joint, the 1350 Dana U jiont is the preffered unit, to select that in the R sreies trans is a couple hundred bucks, where as the same yoke can be had in the T 5 or the T 56 for $50.00,this will help keep the cost of the custom driveshaft to a minimum, the trade off is the disc needs to be custom built, your going to spend between $200.00 to $1500.00 on the clutch of your choice the other consideration is the third member, the Starion unit works but for all the trouble of building a custom rear yoke and it wieghs a ton plus its the wrong suspension for drag racing, consider a third member that you can find a good selection of gears for and build it, thats going to cost the same as the engine build! driveshafts are a science all by its self, understanding the diameter of the tube has a definate formula done to the RPM of the engine compared to the different transmission drive ratio's and a given MPH, its not about 'what fits', they start at $500.00 bucks here But you know? If it aint just exactly what you want, why do it? to accept comprimise and wind up with something you 'kinda' like is wrong, if your gonna go to all that trouble, do it the way you want it done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 ^people like me just wanna have fun on the streets, so no strip, so no need for solid axle, i also know to let off if any wheel hop occurs. i dont like the idea of changing gearing to make the motor turn more rpms per mph, since mine are DD's as well. in my situation, i have never blown a rear or axle, only the stock transmission. i would like to swap something else in its place, regardless if i was on stock power or not, i am hard on tranmissions. actually i think i PM'd you once about getting a w58 adaptor for the g54, and i think you either directed me to someone else, or told me straight up, there was never one made, only for the r154 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Hincher Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 actually i think i PM'd you once about getting a w58 adaptor for the g54, and i think you either directed me to someone else, or told me straight up, there was never one made, only for the r154 we are not on the same page, if you need to build a custom adapter for the existing Starion rear end and add the extra weight and cost without the added convienence of gear selection, why in the world would you do it? If you need to build the custom driveshaft, why wouldn't you build it for the required rear yoke of your chioce to fit the selected new rear end? I am concerned that the W series trans would not be any stronger then the original k132 trans that came with the car, so I didnt build it in the wide block, the R 154 was built so you could add more HP to the engine without a bunch of money in the clutch 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOTTY Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 iv'e been daily driving a 1uz v8 powered 89 Conquest , 290 rwhp using a W58 5 speed , the W58 has done it's job well going on now for two years of constant driving , i don't abuse the car but have been known to "get on it " occasionally , personally i feel the W58 is up for the task , if it can handle the torque of this wonderful Toyota v8 i'm sure it'll handle any moderately modified mpi'd 2.6, i'm no expert by any means , this from a personal daily driving point of view . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullzaflare Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 iv'e been daily driving a 1uz v8 powered 89 Conquest , 290 rwhp using a W58 5 speed , the W58 has done it's job well going on now for two years of constant driving , i don't abuse the car but have been known to "get on it " occasionally , personally i feel the W58 is up for the task , if it can handle the torque of this wonderful Toyota v8 i'm sure it'll handle any moderately modified mpi'd 2.6, i'm no expert by any means , this from a personal daily driving point of view . i want pics of the engine bay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionbull Posted June 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 Starion (KM132-M-CNL) 3.369:1 2.035:1 1.360:1 1:1 .856:1 why would you want shorter gears than a stock trans? personally i think our first is to short as it isthough it probably is stronger The turbo coupe(2.3T) has a short first gear as well. With our 3.54 diff the short gear might be a good ideathese guys were doing 10's with the same tranny(T5 BTW) and gearing long before MPI/tranny swaps were a thought in our heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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