Tow Dolly

[KO]

Havent used a Uhaul tow dolly in years. Just got a coaching job at a 6A in Oklahoma City, 5 hours from home. Car has been setting about 3 years, runs but is not insured, registered, etc. Need to get it to its new home. Will a tow dolly rip my front spoiler off? Seems I remember doing that a time or two. That would suck. Any tips/info? I see they have car haulers too, where you can jsut drive all 4 up on it and be on your way, slightly more expensive but looks worth it, don't have to remove driveshaft either. Someone give me $4k I may say to heck with it and just sell it lol.

[dmyers151]

You'll more than likely tear up the airdam. I did with mine at stock height.

 

Can hauler is the way to go if you've got the truck or funds to rent one from U-Haul. Just have a few lengths of 2x8 lumber ready in case you need it.

Edited August 8, 2012 by dmyers151

[KO]

Thanks for the info, ya I seem to remember the tow dolly being a nightmare to deal with, mine has lowering springs on it too so it would be even worse. Nice ride by the way.

[BuGG]

Been a long time KO. Get that car back on the road. Id go car hauler.

[KO]

Yes it has, thanks I appreciate it, won't take much she just needs a good ole TB rebuild and some good gas ran through it, had to replace the fuel pump recently because it had set so long, got it back to running, I should be ashamed.

[jszucs]

Also with 2 wheels on the ground the car needs to be legal to drive.... if it's not you got to have all 4 up. Even with the full trailer, when I took mine home the air dam had to come off or get tore up for load on or off. That or like stated above you need to have some wood ready to drive it up on.

[CaliConquestAlex]

I towed my car from San Francisco to Las Vegas, 12 hour drive, using a uhaul tow dolly and it was perfect the whole way. I didn't have any issues with it clearing my air dam, but my car is only about 1" dropped. A couple 2x4's would solve most issues. Also, My car has been non-opd with the CA DMV for a few years and is not insured and I didn't have any problems with highway patrol. Also, I didn't remove the driveshaft, my car is 5 speed. Edited August 8, 2012 by CaliConquestAlex

[Technology]

if your car is stock height, MAYBE you'll be alright, but my car is pretty low and it ruined it. Ripped it about 6 more inches where it was a little cracked before and on the other side, ripped it off the mounting screw near the wheel. I used what boards and angles I had available, but it was bad. Get a car hauler, not a dolly. for 10 bucks more it's well worth it.

[CaliConquestAlex]

For a one way uhaul, the cost difference is nearly double from a tow dolly to a car hauler. Also, you need to make sure your tow vehicle can pull the weight of the loaded car hauler.

[MotoCam360]

This is hands down the cheapest way to tow SQ from state to state:

 

tow dolly from Harbor Freight - $80

magnetic tow light kit - $25

*make sure you have an adjustable drop hitch to get the tow height right

** yes you need to remove the front air dam only and make sure the car has the 2 drop down brackets on the subframe

 

I've towed 3 SQ 2000 miles collectively over the past 12 months with zero problems.

 

http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc409/motocam360/Blue%2087%20SQ/87blueSQtow.jpg

 

http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc409/motocam360/Blue%2087%20SQ/87blueSQtow2.jpg

[Technology]

I think the cheapest would be to borrow a trailer, though in this case, that's not an option.

[ucw458]

Now that is dangerous. Ask any professional tow truck driver like louiswheel why you should never secure for tow on the hold down brackets. Even it the bolts are tight they can work loose on the road and you can lose your car. Many cars have fallen off tow trucks from being secured by those hooks.

 

 

Not to mention with the trans in neutral and being towed like that the trans bearings aren't getting any lube. You are destroying the trans towing it that way. Someone here towed their SQ to alaska on a tow dolly with the trans in heutral and when he got there the trans was completely broken. Wouldn't shift or move the car at all.

 

 

If anyone is gonna tow a SQ for a long trip with the rear wheels on the ground I suggest removing the driveshaft to save the trans.

 

 

 

 

This is hands down the cheapest way to tow SQ from state to state:

 

tow dolly from Harbor Freight - $80

magnetic tow light kit - $25

*make sure you have an adjustable drop hitch to get the tow height right

** yes you need to remove the front air dam only and make sure the car has the 2 drop down brackets on the subframe

 

I've towed 3 SQ 2000 miles collectively over the past 12 months with zero problems.

 

http://i1210.photobucket.com/albums/cc409/motocam360/Blue%2087%20SQ/87blueSQtow.jpg

 

 

Edited August 10, 2012 by ucw458

[Tim_C.]

I'm with CaliConquestAlex on this one. I've used U-Haul dollys a few times with no problems. No removing driveshaft on manual cars. If anything you might need to extend the ramps with wood, but once it is up on the dolly, there will be no issues.\

Those things ride like silk too. I never even knew it was back there with a 1/2 ton Chevy PU. They say max 55MPH, but I had it up to 85 LoL! with no problems. Pick out a new one is what I like to do if possible.

 

Tip: Be sure to drive a few miles slowly, and pull over to retighten the straps around the front tires. Then drive it all the way.

Don't pull straight in where you have to back up to get out. It don't work to well for that! Always leave room in front to pull straight out.

[Guest]

I would highly suggest not using the drop down brackets on the StarQuest or any vehicle as primary tie down points when towing. Regardless if it's on a flatbed tow truck, car hauler, tow dolly or tow bar. Those drop down brackets should only be used as secondary safety points, alot if things can go wrong with those brackets.

 

I've seen those brackets come lose, bolts rip off the threads or just bend. When loading onto a flat bed or car hauler you always secure the vehicle from its designated tow slots on the underside of the body or from subframe or control arms.

 

Not all vehicles are designed with propper tow points. The StarQuest has those drop down brackets, I hook from the control arms up front and then secure the car using straps on all four wheels. I don't put alot of stress on the control arms.

 

The other thing, if you drag the rear wheels, remove driveshaft. It's only four bolts and a plug at the trans end. I have seen transmissions get tore up from dragging. I've also seen it done with 0 noticeable problems. But here's my reason for recommending that, why take the chance?

[ucw458]

I should be said,

 

NEVER tow any automatic car with it's drive wheels on the ground and the engine off. In as little as 5 miles the auto trans will be destroyed.

[Guest]

I should be said,

 

NEVER tow any automatic car with it's drive wheels on the ground and the engine off. In as little as 5 miles the auto trans will be destroyed.

 

Yeah, I learned that one the hard way, destroyed the trans on a perfectly good running vehicle. When I got the car to the wrecking yard, I tried to drive it and it wouln't even go in reverse, I towed it 15 miles on the street.

 

Just to share a drop down bracket horror story, I once lost a car on the road because the drop down brackets on the 96 Camry I had on the flat bed came off! I used it as the primary hook point. The car flew off the flat bed, hit the ground, rolled forward 300-400 feet hitting a fire hydrant and a power pole!

 

Boy was that a bad day for me.

Edited August 12, 2012 by louswheel01

[Fanta]

Nothing wrong with a tow dolly

 

now, being that your car is lowered, it'd behoove you to just remove the airdam/bumper then and throw it into the car before driving it up