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D2 Front Coilover Prep COMPLETE tutorial


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K Sport

K sport is considered by many to be essentially orange colored D2s.... Wasn't there a thread here recently stating that Tein had full coil overs for Starion?

Wrong. K Sport is a completely different company.

I also see 'XYZ' brand coil overs on eBay as well. I guess it comes down to what colors you want your coilovers to be. Hah

 

Here's the breakdown on D2/KSport. They are different companies (credit to TexasQuest)...however they are made in the same plant, by the same people, on the same assembly line (credit to MotoCam). It's like comparing a Scion FRS to a Subaru BRZ...same chassis, same motor, same frame, same cockpit. About all that's different is some trim elements and front and rear body fascia touches. At any rate, they are wholesaled to the market by the same manufacturer.

 

The same manufacturer that is imposing a price hike on D2s is also price hiking the KSports. Both lines are considered to be a mid-range coilover. Tein would be considered a top line coilover.

 

XYZ coilovers are considered to be a cheaper coilover due to shaving cost by skimping on some of the production bits and processes (metallurgy rating, welding template, etc.). In fact, the coilovers that XYZ sells are produced by a subsidiary arm of the same Taiwanese mother company that produces D2s and KSports. At any rate, I'd advise steering clear of XYZs. Check any other forum reviews on them and it's not flattering whatsoever.

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  • 2 months later...

Great write up! It was an extremely simple conversion, and in a day I was rolling again.

 

Wanted to add to this thread by saying 309 welding is the best rod to adhere the carbon based spindle housing to the stainless steel insert that D2 has provided. Was told this by a certified welder. The 309 is the absolute best around for a wide variety of carbon based too stainless welding. When it comes stiff suspension, pot holes, safety, and the difficult weld behind the caliper bracket you better use the best of the best. It was only $15 a pound at a local welding supply store.... Just my extra 2 cents.

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  • 4 months later...
Hey guys, so I'm doing the fronts today. My question now is, do I have to take the entire wheel hub apart? And if so, there's a cotter pin which it says on the FSM is non reusable. Is it really? If so, where do I acquire such a pin? Or does the wheel hub even need to be taken apart? I would love to know it doesn't have to be cuz that'll save me a lot of time. Please help and comment. Thanks.
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Or does the wheel hub even need to be taken apart? I would love to know it doesn't have to be cuz that'll save me a lot of time. Please help and comment. Thanks.

 

It's only one big nut to take the hub off, not a big deal. A cotter pin is a cotter pin, they just don't like to be bent multiple times as they tend to break. Every auto parts store has them.

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  • 8 months later...

Also, when you guys did your rears, did you have to switch your lefts with rights, and rights with lefts? My right is installed on the left, and my left is installed on my right. It was the only way they would fit with the brake line brackets oriented in the correct position. Was wondering if anyone else had this situation.

 

I installed my rears yesterday and had this issue. It depends on the reference D2 is using. I think they are looking at the car from the front and determining left and right and not from the back. I would like to see it labeled drivers side rear/front and passenger side rear front.

Edited by tsi_tom
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I had to use the provided relocation brackets for the rear lines, otherwise they were stretched a little with the car sitting low with the lines bolted to the stock locations. You want to use the brackets to lower the brake line mount points.
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