Please note: I am not a mechanic who works on cars day in and day out! I don't have an unlimited supply of specially tooling! I am an auto enthusiast/backyard mechanic like the majority of us on this site. I've done my best to document how I performed this particular rebuild using mostly standard hand tools and the factory service manuals as my guideline. If you see something in error, please respond via PM. If you see something that may be performed in a simpler fashion, again please respond.

I have been receiving many requests from club members asking if I would consider rebuilding their parts per the steps shown in these ‘how-to’ threads. Although I am humbled at your trust in my abilities to rebuild such critical parts of your vehicle, I respectively have to decline any such requests. With a family of four, a demanding career, and just the normal responsibilities in everyday life, I have difficulty in finding time to work on my own project vehicles much less take on additional work. However, I encourage you to review the thread in detail, try to gather the required parts and tools, and attempt to rebuild the items on your own. My goal in developing these threads was to give members the encouragement to perform these component rebuilds at home while gaining valuable experience, saving some $, and simply having fun with the hobby. I hope by sharing this information and by including my own trials and mistakes along the way, help to achieve these goals.

Background: This particular rebuild was to freshen up my 88/89 KM132 manual trans. This transmission had about 90k miles on it when removed from the vehicle. I didn’t recall any issues with this transmission when it was in my car. The purpose of the rebuild was simply to refresh the transmission with some new synchronizers, bearings, gaskets, and seals hopefully to result in many more years of operation.

Reference: PQ's thread in the SOS forum: http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=3218&sid=9a08dd8a43213f0706fee35e71adcd83

First and foremost: YOU NEED THE FACTORY MANUALS and the PARTS MANUALS! If you do not have these, get them. They are downloadable on several starquest sites and are also on ebay constantly for a very low price. NOTE: The 88 factory service manuals that are downloadable on the sites appear to be missing a few pages in the manual transmission section! For this reason, I was using my hardcopy 87 manual for most of the rebuild, particularly with the disassembly. This led me down the wrong path at one point, costing me a lot of unneeded time and developing a tool that I didn’t need….follow along for more detail.

Parts required: Please follow the thread to list the required parts for this rebuild. At a minimum you will need the input bearing, center bearing, output bearing, and both countershaft bearings (the input and center bearings are specific to the year of the transmission). You will need all six synchronizers. I recommend that you purchase new shift forks as well. You will most likely need a few shims for your countershaft (follow along with the thread). Plus gaskets and seals. There are several needle roller bearings in this transmission…I’ll leave that up to you on whether or not they need replaced. I replaced all but one of mine (was NLA from Mitsu) although my originals were in good shape and probably could have been reused. You will possibly need a new rear retainer as well.

Source of parts: manualtransmissionpart.com has many aftermarket parts for our transmissions. They have full rebuild kits…although don’t buy the 88/89 rebuild kit! It doesn’t have the right center bearing in it which is one of the most expensive parts in the kit. Although you can buy the input, output, and countershaft bearings from them. They have all of the shift forks, one of the needle roller bearings, seals, and synchronizers. Note: our 1^st and reverse synchronizers are slightly different than the ones this site sells…thus I bought these from Mitsu…although I don’t believe there would be a problem using theirs (follow along in the write-up).

For most of the other parts, I went directly with Mitsu. One item of concern is the countershaft shim….they don’t make a shim kit! You must purchase each shim separately…and they come from Japan! To make it worse, they are expensive and you don’t really know what size you will need until you are back in the reassembly phase!

Another source of bearings is motion-industries. Some of the bearings are available thru them but you must have the bearing manuf. part number.

I purchased the high strength roll pins for the shifter forks and the retainer hardware through mcmaster-carr.

Tooling Req'd: This rebuild required a really good set of pullers. Prior to this, I invested in a puller kit. It was expensive but it has paid for itself on this project and several others since. Unfortunately you still need to either find the true Mitsu puller with extension rods for removing the center bearing (such as what PQ did on his thread) or make a custom puller (the route I went).

Starting Point: I started with the transmission removed from the car and the following parts previously taken off: pan, rear steel yoke protector (it just pulls off), speedo gear assembly, clutch throughout bearing/fork, and reverse switch (don’t lose the steel ball behind it!).

As seen in the photos, I thoroughly cleaned the outside of the tranny and bell housing area prior to taking anything apart. I don’t like to introduce any un-needed debris into the transmission even during disassembly. For this, I used simple green first and then mineral spirits. I probably went much farther in cleaning than the typical member here because I wanted to paint the components in the process.

The purpose of this thread is to show how to rebuild the manual shifter assembly for our cars (all model years are applicable).   I’ll show how to disassemble the stock shift lever assembly (without cutting the shifter itself!) and I’ll show two methods of rebuild:

1.       Rebuilding using an aftermarket short shifter kit

2.       Rebuilding to stock configuration

Disassembly:

The starting point is with the shifter assembly unbolted from the transmission and off of the vehicle.

If you flip over the shift lever, you will see an internal snap ring on the underside.   Remove it with internal snap ring pliers

Now carefully pull the shift lever off of the shifter assembly.  You may need to rock it back and forth a bit.  It doesn’t come off very easy due to the rubber insert inside (shown later).  Take your time so that you do as little damage to the rubber insert as possible

The lever will be removed and this is what you will see

The aftermarket kits tell you to cut the shift lever to disassemble.  Even if using an aftermarket short shifter kit, I still don’t like to sacrifice OEM parts.  You just never know if and when you will want to go back to the stock configuration.   So, let’s remove it the proper way!

If you look closely at the sleeve under the rubber insert, you will see a crimp on both sides.

You want to grind over these crimps, being careful not to grind into the shifter.  The example shown here looks like it went too far but it didn’t.  It just broke the surface, for the notches in the shifter lever are pretty deep.

From here, you can pull the sleeve off (via a vise) and remove the washer, rubber grommet, thicker washer, internal snap ring, and finally the large rubber boot.   Note, for the rebuild here, my sleeve broke it half on removal.   I’ve since gotten better at pulling these off in one piece but this was the best photo I had of the parts displayed out on removal.   Take your time removing the sleeve, the more you get it off in one piece, the easier it will be to reassemble if you are rebuilding to stock form. 

Might as well remove the rectangular steel plate on the bottom now.   Three bolts/nuts

Next is the smaller boot.  There is a wire wrapped around the base and twisted.  Simply untwist and remove

Next, pull the C clip (or some call it an E clip) off of the shifter. Then you can remove the large thin washer, spring, and cup

Also, the triangular plate on the bottom is two pieces.  The upper piece has the lip for the inner grease boot.  Pull this off of the fulcrum support plate.   There is a gasket between the two.   I didn’t show this in any of my photos.   Removing it will give you more access to the dowel pin.

This part is the most difficult; removing the dowel pin.   Nothing too much to describe, you need to hammer it or press it out.   It is a press fit, so it doesn’t come out the easiest.   The difficult part is constraining the shifter for pin removal.  That fulcrum support plate is always in the way.   In my case, my fulcrum was completely disintegrated and gone, which gives you some more freedom.   A disintegrated fulcrum is very common and the main reason for performing the rebuild in the first place. 

I have gotten better at this on each rebuild but I never took the time to make up good brace to punch out the pin.  I just fight with the right positioning and make it work.   

With that pin out, the fulcrum support plate can be removed and you are now fully disassembled.   From here, clean all of your parts up really good.  

I thought I did a good job laying all of the parts out in this photo but it is missing one item…can you spot what it is?    (I left it laying on my other bench when I snapped this picture)

Please note: I am not a mechanic who works on cars day in and day out! I don't have an unlimited supply of specially tooling! I am an auto enthusiest/backyard mechanic like the majority of us on this site. I've done my best to document how I performed this particular rebuild using standard hand tools and the factory service manuals as my guideline. If you see something in error, please respond via PM. If you see something that may be performed in a simpler fashion, again please respond.

Background: This particular rebuild was to freshen up a stock 88/89 differential. The differential shown in the 'assembly' portion of this thread was pulled from a junkyard over 15 years ago...from a low mileage car. It was disassembled over 10 years ago and placed in storage. The 'disassembly' portion of this thread consists of an 87 differential from one of my former daily drivers that is shot (and I'll prove it in this thread)....I simply took it apart to gather parts (shims), make a tool , and photograph the disassembly for creation of this thread.

For the assembly, I retained the stock gear ratio ring/pinion in its original carrier. However several 'new'/'borrowed' parts were used on the rebuild including the spline coupler, shims, etc. However, the steps in this thread are applicable for gear ratio swaps...I'll try to differentiate what additional steps would be required during the writeup if you were swapping internals (new ring/pinion) to the carrier.

First and foremost: YOU NEED THE FACTORY MANUALS! If you do not have the factory manuals, get them. They are downloadable on several starquest sites and are also on ebay constantly for a very low price.

Parts required: Please follow the thread to list the required parts for this rebuild. At a minimum you will need all new bearings and seals. You may need the appropriate shim kits, as req'd, during the rebuild. Follow along to determine what you will need and why.

Tooling Req'd: This rebuild required several specialty tools including even custom made tooling. Read thru the write-up to determine what tooling you will need to perform your rebuild. A variety of pullers will be required at a minimum, see the photos on the pullers I used and make a determination on what you will need as a result. There are many different ways to skin a cat in terms of removing the old bearings/seals. If you have access to a shop press, then you will be best off. I mixed the use of a shop press and several different (even homemade) puller types for this particular rebuild. Note: I've also literally cut bearings off with a dremel tool in the past - obviously you need to be very carefull you don't cut thru the bearing and into the pinion or gear carrier if you go this route.

IMPORTANT: Note the LACK of air tool usage in this rebuild! I own a very high cfm compressor and high torque impact drivers. I did NOT use any of these tools on the differential rebuild, even during disassembly! The differential is one of the most important parts of a vehicle's drivetrain. Care is to be taken during it's rebuild. I don't like the unpredictable response of impact guns. Don't get me wrong, impact guns have their purpose but not for rebuilding a rear differential. This rebuild is conducted with the aide of hydraulics and lever arms - both providing a smooth and controllable method of assembling or disassembling a joint.

kev

Edit 11/5/2014: Lately I have been receiving many requests from club members asking if I would consider rebuilding their parts per the steps shown in these ‘how-to’ threads. Although I am humbled at your trust in my abilities to rebuild such critical parts of your vehicle, I respectively have to decline any such requests. With a family of four, a demanding career, and just the normal responsibilities in everyday life, I have difficulty in finding time to work on my own project vehicles much less take on additional work. However, I encourage you to review the thread in detail, try to gather the required parts and tools, and attempt to rebuild the items on your own. My goal in developing these threads was to give members the encouragement to perform these component rebuilds at home while gaining valuable experience, saving some $, and simply having fun with the hobby. I hope by sharing this information and by including my own trials and mistakes along the way, help to achieve these goals.

Regards,

kev

Below are part numbers, actual dimensions, and some other info for the internal transmission bearings.

Note: Inch measurements were taken using calipers. mm was converted from the actual inch measurements.

THIS INFORMATION WAS COLLABORATED FOR AN 88/89 CONQUEST/STARION KM132 MANUAL TRANSMISSION. EARLIER MODELS MAY DIFFER.

Needle Roller Bearings; Reference PG 21M-800 of the parts manual along with illustration 21M-14

Item 22; 4th gear (connection between input and main shafts):

• Qty Needed: 1
• Part Number: MD731433
• ID (shaft): .787" (20mm)
• OD (socket): 1.101" (28mm)
• t: .768" (19.5mm)
• Roller dia: .155" (3.9mm)
• # Rollers: 12

Item 28; 1st and 2nd gear:

• Qty Needed: 2
• Part Number: MD703760
• ID (shaft): 1.692" (43mm)
• OD (socket): 1.890" (48mm)
• t: 1.166" (29.6mm)
• Roller dia: .096" (2.4mm)
• # Rollers: 30

Item 24; 3rd gear ONLY:

• Qty Needed: 1
• Part Number: MD701760
• ID (shaft): 1.376" (35mm)
• OD (socket): 1.575" (40mm)
• t: 1.122" (28.5mm)
• Roller dia: ..096" (2.4mm)
• # Rollers: 25

Item 54; Reverse gear:

• Qty Needed: 1
• Part Number: MD713674
• ID (shaft): 1.692" (43mm)
• OD (socket): 1.890" (48mm)
• t: .896" (22.75mm)
• Roller dia: .096" (2.4mm)
• # Rollers: 30

Item 24; 5th gear only (split bearing) (88/89 specific):

• Qty Needed: 1 set
• Part Number: MD729188
• ID (shaft): 1.376" (35mm)
• OD (socket): 1.575" (40mm)
• t: 1.122" (28.5mm)
• Roller dia: .096" (2.4mm)
• # Rollers: 12 per half

Item 18; reverse/idler shaft:

• Qty Needed: 2
• Part Number: MD712965
• ID (shaft): .863" (22mm)
• OD (socket): 1.023" (26mm)
• t: .650" (16.5mm)
• Roller dia: .075" (1.9mm)
• # Rollers: 20

Other Bearings:

Output Shaft Rear Ball Bearing:

• Qty Needed: 1
• Part Number: MD703754
• ID: 1.102" (28mm)
• OD: 2.282" (58mm)
• t: .629" (16mm)
• Manufacturer: NSK
• Manuf. P/N: TM2/28
• Motion Industries P/N: 00040278

Counter Shaft Rear Ball Bearing:

• Qty Needed: 1
• Part Number: MD727302
• ID: .864" (22mm)
• OD: 2.204" (56mm)
• t: .628" (16mm)
• Manufacturer: KOYO
• Manuf. P/N: DG2256RKD
• Motion Industries P/N: 01447850

Input Shaft Bearing (88/89 specific):

• Qty Needed: 1
• Part Number: MD728055
• ID: 1.376" (35mm)
• OD: 3.148" (80mm)
• t: .942 (24mm)
• Flange OD: 3.347" (85mm)
• Flange t: .168 (4.27mm)
• Manufacturer: NTN
• Manuf. P/N: TM-SX07840UC540PXI

Countershaft Bearing:

• Qty Needed: 2
• Part Number: MD727458
• ID: 0.983" (25mm)
• OD: 2.046" (52mm)
• t: .625 (15mm)
• Manufacturer: NSK
• Manuf. P/N: HR 30205J
• Motion Industries P/N: 00131493

Center Bearing (88/89 specific):

• Qty Needed: 1
• Part Number: MD727572
• ID: 1.377" (35mm)
• OD: 2.832" (72mm)
• t: 1.375" (35mm)
• Flange OD: 3.090" (78.5mm)
• Flange t: .198 (5mm)
• Manufacturer: NACHI
• Manuf. P/N: 35BVV07X-7

kev

psu_Crash

Finished up cleaning the tranny and all ready to put it back in the car. I decided that since I had it apart I might as well change the input shaft seal. So I did. The original seal looked fine but I changed it anyways just for peace of mind. So when I pressed in the new seal it didn't seem to press in as far as the old seal. I think it must have been a slightly thicker seal. I checked the ID and OD ... but not the thickness. So here is what it looks like after it was pressed in. It is definitely bottomed out and even. Doesn't seem right, but hope this is OK since I put the seal carrier back on like this.

http://imageshack.com/a/img537/5808/LR15Wt.jpg

The gasket set that I bought seems to have all the right gaskets. The only ones I can really confirm are the gasket behind the input shaft bearing/seal carrier, the tail section to main section, tail section linkage cover and the shifter gasket. These are all correct. That kit has a TON of gaskets in it. Even seems to have more than one style of a few gaskets.

Just FYI part #'s

Tranny Gasket Set: Fel-Pro TS 80310-1

Input Seal: Timken 1981

Output Seal: National 223608

And also the stock Input bearing is TM-SC 0778NCS30 PX1 it says JAPAN NA on it also.

The joint is held together by this clip on the inside...

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_20140903_202812.jpg

To overcome it use a punch and hammer on the race (star shaped thing)....

I used a prybar like this. You can actually lay it on the floor or bench and get it once with a good size hammer and it will pop right apart...

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_20140903_202911.jpg

Going back together is the same concept, help the circlip by collapsing it a little initially..get it in the groove...

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_20140903_204309.jpg

Then do this...a dead blow hammer or soft hammer might be preffered but if you just give it one good hit it will go home and not hurt a thing

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_20140903_204447.jpg

Lube the shaft first as well...

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_20140903_204417.jpg

The cage and ball can come in/out too...

To get the balls out use a big shaft or screwdriver to angle the race and cage at extremes....this is how they go in and come out...do one ball and then do the one directly across from it. you will be temped to get the others out that are expose when you do this but trust me this is the best way.

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_20140903_203433.jpg

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_20140903_203501.jpg

One all the balls are out the cage and race will come too. Two things to be aware of here is the large slots in the cage....

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_20140903_203215.jpg

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_20140903_203114.jpg

And the cage has an inner and outer part two separate I.D. dimensions. Bigger one outside...

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_20140903_202408.jpg

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_20140903_202408.jpg

The larger slots in the cage is your key to getting the race out and then next the cage with come too.

More pics here

http://s1187.photobucket.com/user/starionkiller/library/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild?sort=3&page=1

assistance is always nice tooo

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/starion%20c%20v%20axle%20rebuild/th_2014-09-11_13-58-29_45.jpg

If the OEM dowel is a bit loose, the 10x24mm Fasenol dowel part # is: 40079 to go into a new hole via a 25/64" drill bit.

http://b2600turbo.com/fidanza_aluminum_flywheel.htm

These bushings and spacer...

(Bushings MB058634, Spacer MB151139)

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_2013-02-04160650.jpg

http://starquest.i-x...r=asc&start=100

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_CR-73A.jpg

What about the clutch slave valve, anyone remove that?^^ i see pq did in the link aboove. i never knew we had a damper valve in the clutch slave cylinder.

My master cylinder box made me think the mod was alreay done lol

http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z388/starionkiller/clutch%20pedal/th_2013-02-04235601.jpg

Also i wonder where that thread is on using a bushing in the pedal to master pivot?

update, just odered the spacer and bushing from www.mitsubishiparts.net. Total $18.26 for one Spacer MB151139 and two Bushings MB058634

I would really like to find a bearing to fit the upper pivot. edit in: found one , scoll down

Scroll to post #13 for the full part number list to do it all with off the shelf OEM parts

Courtesy of emagdnim:

If you are shopping for NEW OEM parts, these are ring/pinoin sets that will fit any LSD starquest unit:

3.545 = MB185460

3.909 = MB185461

4.222 = MB185462

---------------------------------------------------------------------

If you are looking for used parts in a junk yard:

Montero with leaf springs: 83-87: Varies from year to year on what trucks got what.

4.625 = MB185463

4.875 = MB527147

4.222 = MB185462

Montero 3.0 with coil suspension: 89-91: all years one option.

4.625 = MB598210

Montero 3.0: 92-96: varies in different options for all years

4.625 = MB598210

4.875 = MB598487

4.636 = MR162750

Montero 3.5 DOHC: 94-00:

4.636 = MR124857

4.272 = MR296349

Montero 3.5 SOHC V6 24V: 01-02

Can't pull information up on this one yet.

Montero 3.5 SOHC V6 24V: 03

Can't pull information up on this one yet.

Montero Sport: 2.4: 2WD: 96-99: only one option for these years.

4.222 = MB185462

Montero Sport: 3.0: 2WD: 97-03:

4.222 = MR162749

4.636 = MR162750

4.900 = MR296348

Montero Sport: 3.5: 2WD: 99-03

4.272 = MR296349

4.636 = MR124857

Montero Sport: 3.0: 4WD: 97-03

Wont let you select the gears.

Montero Sport: 3.5: 4WD: 99-03

4.272 = MR296349

4.636 = MR124857

4.900 = MR124858

Mighty Max: 2.0: SWB/2WD: 87-89: only one option.

3.909 = MB185461

Mighty Max:: 2.6: SWB/2WD: 87-89: only one option.

3.545 = MB185460

Mighty Max: 2.4: SWB/2WD: 90-96 only one option.

3.909 = MB185461

Mighty Max: 2.6: LWB/2WD: 87-89

3.545 = MB185460

4.222 = MB185462

Mighty Max: 2.4 LWB/2WD: 90-95

4.222 = MB185462

3.909 = MB185461

Mighty Max: 2.6 LWB/4WD: 87-89

3.909 = MB185461

4.222 = MB185462

Mighty Max: 3.0 SWB/4WD: 90-95

4.222 = MB527248

Mighty Max: 2.6 LWB/4WD: 87-89

3.909 = MB185461

4.222 = MB185462

Mighty Max: 3.0 LWB/4WD: 90-91

4.222 = MB527248

_________________

Earls adapter: http://www.summitrac.../EAR-989538ERL/ **NOTE - I don't know how well the Earls adapter fits in the Starion clutch hose bracket, but it seems to be the only adapter they carry at Summit.

Russel braided hose: http://www.summitrac...rd=657302&dds=1

My 24 year old rubber clutch line went out last week, and almost left me stranded. Luckily, I was able to make it home safe. While trying to get a replacement, I found that I could not get one locally, even through the dealer(which was 20 miles away). If I order from Mitubishiparts.net, it would take at least a week or more to get to me for around $30-$40 shipped. I then found a braided alternative to the OEM that was easily available. It only took 2 days to get to me from Summit....

Parts needed:

Russell -3 an to metric adapter - 641411 - The package I got actually included 2 pieces. You don't have to get the Russell brand, but this one fit perfectly with the original bracket and clip on the car. If you get something different, it has to be a -3 an to 10mmx1 inverted flare adapter.

http://i.imgur.com/nwVhU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SkIfn.jpg

Russell 13" straight braided hose(clear laminated), -3 an to 10mm banjo - 657302 - When attached to the adapter, it is roughly the same length as the OEM rubber clutch line. It also includes 2 sealing washers for the banjo fitting and is DOT approved.

http://i.imgur.com/XA6eH.jpg

After all was said and done, I spent as much as I would have on the OEM line. Perfect fit!!

http://i.imgur.com/hz5rp.jpg

You will need to start by pulling the axle housing from the car. First jack up the car, pull the tire, caliper, rotor, small retainer bolt under the rotor on the bottom of the axle housing and 2 top bolts that hold the strut to the axle housing. Drive a small wedge into the strut housing seam to open it up enough to allow the axle housing to drop once the main retainer bolt is expelled.

The following are some tips on extracting the main axle housing bolt. They can be a little tough to remove.

1) Get some PB blaster and hose all of the sections of the bolt that you have access to.

2) Make sure you have the small bolt out of the bottom, it's a 12mm on both ends.

3) Get an impact gun if you can borrow one, it will make it way easier to get the large bolt out.

4) Drive the nut off, use a breaker bar to break it loose.

5) Compress the spring. If you don't all of the pressure that is pushing down on the axle housing shaft will make it more difficult to remove.

6) If you don't have a spring compressor put a jack under the rear A-arm and lift it until the tire is coming off the ground, then get a snap strap, wrap it around the top and bottom of the spring itself and crank on the handle to get the strap as tight as possible. Then put the jack under the rear diff and lift it off the ground, that will take the weight off the lower A-arm.

7) Get a friend to help you.

8) Get a nylon hammer, and gently smack the end of the bolt WHILE spinning the bolt in reverse with the impact gun.

9) Once you get it started, take a pry bar and pry against the big washer again WHILE spinning the bolt in reverse with the impact gun.

10) Continue until it's out, keep dousing with PB as you go. When you can get any leverage anymore because the bolt is starting to work it's way out, put a 2x4 in between the pry bar and the lower caliper mounting bracket and keep going. Continue till it's out.

11) If you have to smack the bolt itself, put the nut on and drive it down to the top of the bolt. That way you won't damage the threads.

There is no majic, lots of blood, sweat and tears. I did it myself today, would have been much faster with a helper.

Thanks for understanding, and if there are questions, please feel free to PM me.

Tim

most of us probably have an inch or two of freeplay in the clutch pedal before it actually engages. if the master cylinder is not leaking, and there is no air in the system, then the problem is generally from two other sources.

either the pin connecting the master to the pedal is worn and grooved

OR

the U at the end of the arm of the mastercylinder has wornout elongated holes.

in realitly it is going to be a little of both. this is usually due to the junction not being lubricated and its just metal on metal contact. this junction is also make a funky squeek sometimes if its not lubed.

to prevent and fix this, remove the pin and inspect it for worn grooves.

if its not wornout, just grease it a bit and replace it.

if its slightly worn, replacing it with a new pin will eliminate most of the play.

if the condition is bad, then the U on the mastercylinder is also worn out and almost always, the master itself is on its last leg by now so get a new mastercylinder which comes with the complete arm.

The U at the end of the rod is MB012124 but i don't know how much it costs.

here is something else thats interesting. the dealer is the cheapest source for the clutch master cylinder

well maybe not the local dealer but any of those online ones will have it for around $60 MB012099

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/clutchmaster1.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~antimpower/images/clutchmaster2.jpg

OK, as I recently went to work at a bearing distributor, I'm pleased to say that I can offer the StarQuest Community most of the bearings and seals for the car, with the exception of the engine bearings. If it is a ball or roller bearing, or some sort of seal, I likely have it, brand new. Without any ado, here's the list, with prices.

BEARINGS:

Front Wheel, 83-89 (Timken)

Inner, 8.79

Outer, 7.40

Rear Wheel, 83-89 (SKF)

Inner, 13.23

Outer, 22.10

Rear Axle:

Differential..CALL (Timken)

Pinion Bearing (Timken)

84-89

Cone, 13.85

Cup, 6.90

Clutch:

Pilot Bearing, 12.80 (SKF)

Throwout bearing, CALL (BCA)

Transmission:

Manual (SKF)

Input Shaft, 84-89, 27.35

Output Shaft, 84-89, 26.39

Countershaft, 85-89, Center and Front, CALL

Alternator: (SKF)

Drive end, 8.48

Rear End, 6.18

SEALS

Front Wheel, 10.18

Rear Wheel, 4.88

Rear Axle,

Differential, 5.10

Pinion, 84-89 LSD, 5.68

Pinion, 84-87 Non-LSD, 4.80

Automatic Transmission:

Front pump, 7.60

Extension housing, 4.12

Manual Transmission:

Input, 3.88

Output, 12.85

Shift Shaft, 84-87, 3.43

Power Steering:

Worm Shaft, 4.16

Pitman Shaft, 4.93

Pump Shaft, 2.94

Engine:

Cam Seal, 4.44

Rear Main, 25.12

Timing Cover, 5.40

Now, since this deal is through my company, my boss is willing to give these prices on the condition that a $25 minimum order is placed. That's the bad news. The good news is that these are jobber prices on these bearings.

The better news is that all of the bearings offered are major brand bearings, either Timken, SKF, or BCA. All of the seals are Chicago Rawhide, which is a division of SKF USA. All the parts are top flight parts, no Chinese garbage being peddled here. I could sell you Turkish bearings for just slightly less, but believe me, you want the quality bearings.

Most, if not all of the SKF bearings offered here are made to electric motor specs, which means that it is a lower tolerance bearing, a more precision part, and rated for high speed.

I can be reached at:

BRC BEARING

1-800-929-2313

Hours are Mon-Fri, 8-5. Just ask for Tim, tell me who you are, and we will get you going. Paypal is not accepted, this is a brick and mortar business.

Tim

the problem was no better.  Finally, after consulting with a friend of mine (who just happens to own a tranny shop), the actual problem was indetified.  The clutch pedal

hole, used for the mast. cyl. mounting pin, had been elongated after years of racing.

The solution of my friend was to weld the hole up and re-drill.  Although this would have solved the problem, I really did not want to wait until I had access to a welder

(even though we are only talking about the weekend here).  

My clutch pedal did not always return to the origional heighth. For some reason, as the pedal wore, the pincreated a catch.  Recently I had noticed a popping noise when I first pushed in on the pedal. The noise ended up being the pin hitting the other side of the elongated hole.

I will see if I can clarify my actions( unfortunately by brain works much faster than my fingers).

After the clutch pedal assy. was disassembled from the car and the pedal removed,

I drilled out the hole for the push rod pin to 31/6", trying to center the new hole in relation to the damage as much as possible.  (Now if your pin hole is worn out larger than 1/2", you will need a different bushing than the one that I used.)  

Next, I prepared the new bushing for the pin (HELP part # 38377).  The O.D. of the push rod pin is 13/32", and the I.D. of the bushing is .376"(slightly over 3/8"), so a little sanding of the bushing will be necessary.  The Dremmel comes in very handy for this, but it can be done by hand with sandpaper or a fine file.  Remove the material evenly around the I.D. and check for fit often.  The pin should clear easily, but not have any 'slop' inside the bushing (don't be tempted to do this step after you insert the bushing into the pedal as the friction from your sanding can 'spin' the bushing in the new mounting hole).

After I was satisified with the fit of the pin, I turned my attention to the mounting hole.  The O.D. of the new bushing is .495(just under 1/2"), so once again a little sanding is needed.  I chose to sand the bushing to ensure a tighter fit and make a mistake (like taking off too much material) much easier to correct.

Now that the  O.D. and I.D. are correct, I trimmed off the flange on the bushing and tapped it into place on the clutch pedal.  The bushing should need a little coaxing to go in, but not so much as to distort the shape.  

Once in place, a little more sanding to match the bushing to the pedal thickness was necessary.  The pedal was then ready for re-installation.  A quick check of the pin clearance and reassemble the clutch pedal assy. to the car, using a tiny ammount of grease on the pin at install.  

Now I know it sounded like a lot of sanding was involved, but I assure you that it goes very quickly.  I am only talking abuot 1/64" here or there.  I only spent 2 hours total and that included figuring it out as I went along.  This should be very simple and with the brass insert, no further damage should result to the pedal.

P.S. If you don't own a Dremmel or equivilent,.....GET ONE!  I love these things.

Thanks in advance!