87 replies to this topic

[Bill Hincher]

darthconquest, on 02 November 2009 - 10:36 AM, said:

couldnt you also use a w58 trans

  yeah I could but I want explore all the options, I would preffer to build the prototype pattern in a fashion that it could accept a variety of transmission options so the buyer had a better selection
   the bolt pattern is the same between the R 150,151 and 154 , its just a matter of input shaft length, so the back of the casting has to be built to accept any input length by just cutting the rear facing to size

[VICE]

On that note my input shaft was a long one on the R-154, I had to grind off a good quarter inch maybe more because when bolted in, the shaft would hit the engine (or press in with the pilot bearing) and not allow it to move.  Then again this set up had a permanent bellhousing on the tranny it was not a plate..

[Bill Hincher]

VICE, on 02 November 2009 - 11:43 AM, said:

On that note my input shaft was a long one on the R-154, I had to grind off a good quarter inch maybe more because when bolted in, the shaft would hit the engine (or press in with the pilot bearing) and not allow it to move.  Then again this set up had a permanent bellhousing on the tranny it was not a plate..

  according to what I understand, the  96 and above r 150 and r 151 uses a 7.5 inch input shaft, the R 154 uses a 7.25 inch input shaft, but on the narrow block 4G63 set ups, the R 154 ( 7.25in input shaft) had to have the pilot bearing shaft shortened by .25 to allow the spline to the clutch disc to get a full engagement with the input shaft spline ( it moved the transmission forward by .25inch)
  the pre '96 R 150 and 151 should not require that with the 6.5inch input shaft and there is one more advantage, there was a 22Re Toyota turbo engine built for 2 years that used a 2 wd R 151 with a very low first gear ratio, I have checked and they seem to be readily available

   I should have some pic's this week

[Bill Hincher]

This is the continued work on the R 154 for the g54b wide block option, I am furthur along then this but I been too busy to write it up


  the only clutch part needed is the Toyota Supra turbo disc for about $45.00 bucks and a pilot bearing

the Toyota disc is exactly the same as the mits disc

  with this system iwill be using the mits starter/flywheel/ and pressure plate so there is no need for custom parts


  the R 154 centered up nicly on the bellhousing, I am working with the depth here, the bellhousing has to be built with a 1% shrinkage factored in after casting so it has to be built abut 1/4 inch longer in this pattern

  i built my own throw out bearing holder to fit the r 154 collar but I re used all the Satrion clutch control parts as in the clutch fork, pivot ball and slave cylinder


  you can just make out the 1/8 in plate that was added in between the engine and bellhousing , thats for shrinkage in the casting

I always  place a heat vent at the top of the bellhousing,the wall thickness has been added but not shown here and the pattern is being molded to final shape, i wanted to be in casting this week but I need 2 or 3 more days

[Bill Hincher]

this takes hours to fine tune and adjust, sanding and adding material in a way the will draft in the casting proscess while allowing for the 1% shrink and keeping the wall thickness thick where I want it and thin where its not needed





I test for accuracy in where everything locates every time I get to a stopping point

[Bill Hincher]

I have the pattern in casting now, I know its hard to see any improvement in this pattern but the holes are filled in and it is  correct

  I didnt primer the pattern this time, I wanted keep the features a little sharper



  I will have 5 of them in hand the begining of next week and then tet them out to see if they are good

[Bill Hincher]

I have 5 raw castings built and I am testing fit/finish and machinabilty now

i

[Bill Hincher]

because of how the pattern shrinks, I keep testing for fit, I only have 2mm all around the flywheel to work with, plus I need to have enough depth for the clutch, so I keep cutting,testing, assembling and re testing, everything is located correctly at this point, I will be cutting the trans facing next

[Bill Hincher]

i like to check my centers as I move along in the machining process

the transmission facing matched the bellhousing perfectly




a lot of effort was made to clear all the internals with only minor machine time

the bellhousing bolt holes line up to the block perfectly, the input shaft is properly centered and indexed, everything has worked out as planned

  the starter is the OEM Mits starter put right back in its original place

[Bill Hincher]

[Bill Hincher]

[batdude8]

nice work Sir!

[Bill Hincher]

batdude8, on 18 December 2009 - 12:51 PM, said:

nice work Sir!

just trying to stir up some sales for my freinds @ Compitition Cluch ask for dan

[BOHO]

What about the driveshaft Bill?

[Bill Hincher]

patience BOHO, patience

[Bill Hincher]

I had to make sure of the clutch control placement so I started by putting in the side wall slot and drilling the pivot ball in place, remember, I re used all the parts from the original Starquest


  I built this jig to give me my centers and hiegth adjustments for each application

  I have to square the landing for the slave cylinder

  and I re-used the Starion slave cylinder  right back where it should be

  I had a suggestion from a buyer for a window to check out the internals, so I am building this inspecton opening in all my bellhousings

[Bill Hincher]

I wanted to build a complete swap to the Starion so I installed the R 154 and checked my fit, this is using the stock motor mounts and the G54b engine wide block

  there is an inner/outer sheetmetal arringement in the tunnel, I just removed a bit of the outter skin

  The original rear crossmember still fits but I will be making something else here to include a drive shaft safety loop

  Its a tight fit , but doable .;o)


  the shifter location is perefect, dead center



  the transmission is completely up in the chassis, I will be doing the driveshaft next and that will dictate the rear crossmember mount hieght

[BOHO]

Bill,

I don't want to clutter your thread. I didn't mean to offend you on the driveshaft question...LOL...I'm curious if you think the Tranny mount you are going to make would work for a 2jz swap in a conquest using the r154. I'm sure it would be a little further back so the only different would be the mounting position but I would like to get one from you when you are done with this project. Thanks Bill

Braden

[Bill Hincher]

BOHO, on 28 December 2009 - 08:37 PM, said:

Bill,

I don't want to clutter your thread. I didn't mean to offend you on the driveshaft question...LOL...I'm curious if you think the Tranny mount you are going to make would work for a 2jz swap in a conquest using the r154. I'm sure it would be a little further back so the only different would be the mounting position but I would like to get one from you when you are done with this project. Thanks Bill

Braden

  You aint buggin me Bradon, I was just bein funny. did you get a manual flywheel worked out for the 2jz swap?

  I kinda know what I am going to do and I ordered a couple parts today for the rear mount, but I dont know exactly what rear mount I will use, I cant stand having stuff hang under a car, the trans sets in there ok but If I used the Toyota rear mount, I think it would be too low. all track rule books are going to ask you to have a driveshaft safety loop, so I migth as well get that out of the way and build it right into my rear mount set up
   I think that is my next course of action is to build the driveshaft because that will tell me where my driveshaft angle should be, then I can work in the rear mount hiegth
    

                 thanks for askin

[Bill Hincher]

It seems like a lot guys are just as concerned with how to build the driveshaft as they are with the bellhousing
  I found a yoke that accepts the 1310 u-joint which is a common, servicable u-joint


1310 is a dana spicer number for a u joint commonly found on light duty domestic cars

then I just cut the neck off the Starion driveshaft

then I just matched itto a common source weld flange and cut it down to fit into the existing Starion drive shaft tube


  i know there are many ways to build the shaft , but this is a quick easy way for a guy on a budget to get himself rolling


  now i can get the proper angle for the rear trans mount, nothin eats horsepower like a misaligned driveshaft

  there is no need to stuff the yoke up in the trans, the splined section of the trans output shaft is off set about an inch away from the tailshaft