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Viper Red Paint


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#1 toofast

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 08:09 PM

Im looking to paint my car with viper red paint and was just wondering if anyones used it and if they liked it and what brand you went with.thanks,Gary





#2 Dad

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 08:14 PM

QUOTE (toofast @ Jun 19 2009, 09:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Im looking to paint my car with viper red paint and was just wondering if anyones used it and if they liked it and what brand you went with.thanks,Gary



I bet thats more than a penny.   Can't say about the read but the Figi Blue is 200 bux a gallon for basecoat.    87 Black is 100 bucks a gallon.  Thats the Omni brand... part of PPG  just cheaper-  works good for a complete paint over.  Add  another 100 bux for the urethane clear.




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#3 Convette

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 08:53 PM

Red is one of the most $$$ colors also.

#4 BrazilBoy

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Posted 19 June 2009 - 11:10 PM

Corvette Victory Red is a real nice shade and is very close to mitsu red but deeper...
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#5 strang3majik

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 12:37 AM

QUOTE (BrazilBoy @ Jun 20 2009, 12:10 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Corvette Victory Red is a real nice shade and is very close to mitsu red but deeper...


but its a GM color....

ouch...did I just say that smile.gif

but yeah....red is not only the most exspensive, its the hardest to match...so, get it all mixed at the same time.

#6 toofast

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Posted 20 June 2009 - 04:22 PM

The omni paint by ppg seems like its real is to work with from what others have told me.I was thinking of maybe having Napa mix me a gallon of it up but before i do that i have to get some prices unsure.gif

#7 Starionblk

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 09:40 PM

unless you go with there better line the martin senior line you wont have a good color or paint job if you go with crossfire the cheaper martin senior paint   do your self a favor and get the omni paint by ppg  i do body work and went to school for it and napa's paint sucks to spray and doesnt look the greatest when done

#8 Drwojo

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Posted 21 June 2009 - 11:50 PM

Just gonna trow out some thought as a painter.

1. More expensive paints normaly have more pigments.  PPG will have 14 pigments to make a red where omni will have 6-8.  The more expensive the better it will match.  I just bought a gallon of BMW alpine white for 114 from napa.  They are a Sherwin Williams derivative.  Just make sure that everything you buy is compatible.

2. Primer/sealer and clear is where your money should be spent.  I buy Matrix Systems clear or DuPonts normal base, not the expensive kind. Especially for base.

3. For a good complete you will spend around 500 for just materials.

I.E.  I bought base 1 gallon 114, clear 1 gallon 120 and clear activator 50, 2 component high build primer 68 plus activator 38, and a gallon of reducer 46.

So I am at 436 for good primer good base and phenomenal clear.  

A gallon of viper red is anywhere from 220 for cheap to 350 for good.  Good luck and hopes this helps.
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#9 MikeMeyerhoff

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Posted 22 June 2009 - 01:18 AM

Tmietz has a viper red quest.


Kevlar Bands for Starquest Automatics - $50  (I Pay $15 for cores)

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#10 Burton

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 10:52 AM

QUOTE (Starionblk @ Jun 21 2009, 10:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
unless you go with there better line the martin senior line you wont have a good color or paint job if you go with crossfire the cheaper martin senior paint   do your self a favor and get the omni paint by ppg  i do body work and went to school for it and napa's paint sucks to spray and doesnt look the greatest when done




And everybody's entitled to their opinions, so here's mine. The NAPA Crossfire brand is an EXCELLENT line to use. Very user freindly and you can usually get a gallon of filler primer, gallon of about any base color and a gallon of clear for under $400 usually. I also would like to know what NAPA store will mix PPG's OMNI line? Martin Senor is carried by NAPA, and I don't think they'd allow a NAPA to sell another line.


I went to school for it too- 2 years tech school during high school, and 2 year college degree in body repair. I have also been painting since the early 90's and recently spent 2 years in the body shop of a custom hot rod/custom/restoration shop. I am also a certified PPG spray tech, which allows me to spray PPG products and have it be covered under their lifetime warranty. I am now currently getting my own custom car building business going. So if anyone needs some work done hit me up [/shameless plug]




Anyway, I sprayed a SQ with Viper red....




The customer wanted to use a cheap paint and I found a kit from Kirker online- gallon of primer, gallon of Viper Red base, and gallon of clear for under $200. It was cheap, but I didn't like the finish the clear gave and there were failure issues a few years down the road on the spoiler (even tho adhesion promoters and flex agents were used). I will never Kirker brand paint again- it's worth the extra $200 to get the NAPA stuff.



These three cars were all sprayed with the Crossfire paint at NAPA.....









It's my favorite line to use when I can. It's about the best bang for your buck you can find in paint IMO.



PPG, is a good paint, but I'd rather use any number of paint lines than PPG or it's cheaper line, OMNI. I just can't trust a paint that uses the same reducers for all it's products. If you don't spray things right you can have wrinkling and lifting with their products. In the past two years that I've been a PPG tech, I saw 3 $25,000+ paint jobs have to be warrantied by PPG due to reactions in the paint that were the fault of the paint. I have also sprayed about nothing but PPG Deltron, PPG Vibrance and PPG OMNI lines for the past 2 years, and now that I'm no longer working at an authorized PPG body shop, it won't break my heart if I never have to spray it again. I'd rather spray DuPont, Matrix, Martin Senor, BASF, RM, etc...  than PPG. PPG is just not user friendly enough and too expensive- especially for a novice IMO!

That being said, here's a couple cars we painted with PPG's Vibrance line at my old job. They both came out good, but both had to be painted twice due to PPG failures the first time...


60 El Camino- one of 12 finalists of 3500 entries in PPG's Paint Your Ride Contest. It is in PPG's 2009 calendar...


64 Chevy Pickup- another one that needed multiple paint jobs to overcome problems with PPG- some parts of this truck actually had to be repainted 3 times...





They look great, it just took a lot of BS to get there. Someone who may be a novice might have problems and end up spending a TON of money in materials if they are trying to learn to spray with PPG. That's another reason I like to recommend a cheap line to newbies with paint because chances are the first time won't turn out perfect and may need to be redone (my first paint job looked AWFUL). I know I'd rather be sanding down and painting over a messed up paint job that cost me $400, than be sanding down and painting over a messed up paint job that cost me $1500.


Speaking of learning.....


I created an online body manual as a way to help teach people that body work can be done with successfull results with a little bit of instruction and some basic tools. There's 19 chapters of about anything you may need to know. Everything from assessing problems with your paint, to metal fabrication, sanding and prepping, body mods, painting both with regular paint and custom paints. There's also writeups for how to polish paint and wheels. If you are someone new to body repair, it is an excellent source to learn everything you need to know to get started doing body work for yourself....


http://www.26liter.us/forum/index.php/topic,1604.0.html



You will need to join to see it, but it's free and worth 2 minutes of time signing up for another forum. Who wouldn't want to sign up to another SQ site anyway?

Edited by Burton, 24 June 2009 - 11:25 AM.

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#11 Burton

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 12:03 PM

Oh, and compatability was brought up. While that is a concern, it's not nearly as big of a concern as it was 10 or 20 years ago. Most of the newer technology is pretty compatible. As long as you're using 2K primers (two component- can't be re-flowed with a reducer). The biggest thing to worry about compatibility-wise is to make sure you use the right hardeners/activators with their matching components. For instance. I wouldn't use a PPG 2K primer with a NAPA 2k hardener/activator. I would use a PPG 2k primer and hardner/activator for my primer, then maybe use a NAPA base coat and reducer, and maybe top that with a Matrix clear coat using the Matrix clear hardener/activator.




Here is an experiment in compatibility on the highest level that I just completed...

My car needed paint so I could have a good showcase of what I can do since I'm starting my own thing. Since I'm just starting out I have trouble getting work and don't always have money to blow on paint for myself. I had left over paint from past work. Most of it was from that blue GTO, but I had small amounts of about 8 other Crossfire base colors. I dumped them all together and ended up with a little over half a gallon. I knew I'd need at least 3 qts, and probably closer to a gallon. I also had a qt of House of Kolors Cobalt Blue Kandy but was concerned about the compatibility. I talked to our PPG rep about it and he didn't think it would be a big problem, it would just act as a translucent binder. I dumped that in and liked it, but still wished I had a gallon. We ended up having a bunch of small amounts of wet pearls left over from various jobs at work, like a pint here and there, so into the mix it went- 5 different pearls in all.


Now, when I got my car it had many areas of past body repair and many layers of paint. It got sanded and bodyworked, and everything locked down with PPG DP90 epoxy sealer. Of course, that was a year ago, so it needed some more work before paint. I used Crossfire and Mar Hyde 2K primers, and even some spray can primer in a few places. My basecoat concoction got sprayed over that. It got sprayed in stages so the roof was cleared with Crossfire clear, but the rest of the car got a CHEAP Ebay clear- the cheapest I could find. Everything blended together fine with no issues yet. The color came out SWEET. Lots of subtle pearl and not only does the clear give it depth, but the color has depth too from mixing in that candy. It's only been painted for a few weeks, but so far so good....









Don't be too scared to mix and match.
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#12 toofast

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Posted 24 June 2009 - 08:47 PM

Thanks Burton , for all the useful advice  thumbsup.gif Im already a member over there too.Ive been looking at your forums over there and found out alot of helpful info,thats why im asking questions now so i can hopefully do a good job with my car.Thanks everyone for all of your replies,thanks Gary

#13 Starionblk

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 10:14 PM

i wasnt implying that napa would mix omni paint  i was just referring to the man who spoke before me and said omni paint is good   read more carefully

#14 toofast

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Posted 25 June 2009 - 10:34 PM

Im sorry I should have been more specific,i know napa doesnt mix omni paint.I was just unsure whether to get the omni or just go with the napa paint ,that my buddy had recommended.

#15 Burton

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 05:04 PM

sorry, guys, I didn't read carefully enough and misquoted a post, my bad.


The part I quoted was more directed to me trying to go to bat for the Crossfire line, as I didn't agree with the "napa's paint sucks to spray and doesnt look the greatest when done". I don't feel that's true as I have had great success with the stuff.


No matter what brand you go with, I hope it turns out great!

Edited by Burton, 26 June 2009 - 05:05 PM.

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#16 88TSI_Rob

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Posted 26 June 2009 - 05:33 PM

I can't add much to the conversation, but I did get my car painted with a Viper color. It was done in 2008 Viper Venom Red.



Edit: Added a comparison shot


Edited by 88TSI_Rob, 26 June 2009 - 05:37 PM.

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