205 replies to this topic

[Rayman4449]

I don't know how much discussion there has been on the boards recently about this but, my brother and I have been working on getting this setup on our Conquests.  We have had it temporarily hooked up and test started with the car parked.  This Sunday, we will have it hooked up for road tests.  The results so far have been this.... the car has never idled this good ever.  The reason why the Conquest has had an imperfect idle is because of the crappy mitsu MAS!  So far it seems to work fine and seems to be a simple plug and play.  I have some pics of it hooked up on my car and will post them later.  If this works as good on the road as it does in our test, everyone can just forget the 1G MAS!  The setup we are working on will have a 9" long K&N cone filter connected directly to a 3.5" GM MAF(off the LS1), which is connected to a 90 deg 3" hardpipe elbow, which then connects to the turbo inlet.  We are also having a bypass pipe welded on to the 90 deg elbow to accept the BOV blow off.  Tomorrow is the big day and will report what we find.  Cost breakdown is as follows in order from the turbo to the filter:

2 3/8" to 3" transition hose (www.hosetechniques.com) (part#54238/300-10G-300)- $20.25
3" mandrel bent pipe 4" turn radius (www.roadraceengineering.com) (part#AB30090-under 3"-Steel Intercooler Pipe Bends-16 Gauge)
- $20
3" to 3.5" transition hose (www.hosetechniques.com) (part#54300/350-10G-300) - $23.25
3.5" GM MAF (new from www.gmpartsdirect.com) (part#25179711)- $130
9" long, 3.5" end K&N universal cone filter (K&N# RE-0920) (www.usdieselparts.com) - $40
1G DSM Translator (www.ramchargers.com) - $200
Rubber vacuum port for charcol cannister hose (Help! brand PCV Grommet #42311 from Advance Auto/Autozone/etc) -$3.00
3/8" to 3/8" brass vacuum hose connector (Ace hardware-in the brass connector section) - $2.50

Approx Total: $439

It is a bit pricy, but I think this is a great setup and is truely plug and play.


Raymond

[Technology]

good idea, there was something else like this in another post, i beileve

[Rayman4449]

I kinda figured, but I didn't know if anyone here had actually done it yet.  I will add that you can tell the computer gets a MUCH more accurate reading from the GM MAF, the Halmeter Air/fuel meter is so smooth and precise now.   You can tell the computer is really controlling the fuel supply in a very consistent way.  I think the car will run much better now across the board.  We will see....

Raymond

[HotrodTSi]

I'm glad someone here tried the Translator out  ;D I emailed Ramchargers(makers) about this when I saw it on the DSM forum and was told it should work with no probs since the 1G MAS was an upgrade for our cars.

Keep us posted!!!

[Jms]

Raymond,

Can you post the LS1 MAF part number? Many thanks for your interesting post. Please post your findings in detail. If you have success, this is something that I'll do to both my TSi's. Good luck!

Rgds,
Jms

[Rayman4449]

Thanks and will do!    I don't have the part number right now(acutally see the part number above, I just put it there), but I will get it for you tomorrow.  I'm sure there will be comments about the seeming lack of cost- benefit, but from what I have heard from other DSM users that have done this, they say that they are up to full boost (15psi) a full 750 rpms sooner than with their stock 1g/2g mas(not sure which one they had) and that was with the 3" MAF.  I fully expect this to be everything I've heard it to be, and as far as I'm concerned, I'm glad to do what I can to improve upon the original design.  As long as it works ok, I'll definately do it, if anything just for the improved idle quality.  But one thing I really like is the fact that the translator reports a constant temp to the ECU, that means no more running overly rich in the winter.  The seeming ease of adjusting fuel delivery is just awsome too!  Oh and no more fuel cut, there is a switch to turn that off!    Basically it imposes an upper limit on the air flow it reports so the ECU won't activate the fuel cut.(as I understand it)


Raymond

[ezearrl]

Keep us posted, I am still running a stock MAS, so this could be my next upgrade.  Thanks for the research   ;D

[Rayman4449]

I will try and remember to post the link to the www.dsmtuners.com site that had the discussion about this.  I stopped reading at reply #459.  I literaly spent a whole day reading posts about this thing.  This was a BIG deal when it became known in the DSM community.

Raymond

[Rayman4449]

Here are some pics so far....  Sorry, they are a bit dark as it was nighttime when we took them.





Thanks to A.J. for helping me out by posting these!

Ok, and here are the pics of it installed and ready to go in my bro's car...




The final results are in...  WOW!!!  This is definately worth the cost to upgrade in our opinion.  Turbo spoolup is much quicker (at least on his setup) compared to the 1G MAS.  Throttle response is greatly improved and the car is ALOT stronger.  Plus within 3-5 mins we had the fuel system tuned to where we want it.  I think this is definately a mod to do if you have the extra money!!!

Here are some additional pics of the parts:



Pictured below is the radiator hose and parts we used to run a bypass hose from the HKS BOV (that came with his TEP OVCP) to the pipe welded to the 90 deg elbow.  It all went together fine.




Raymond

[Rayman4449]

I will try and post some additional info on how we did this with pics of some of the parts.  Everything was very straight forward except for the 90 deg elbow which needs to be cut to length and of course if you want to do a BOV/bypass setup then you need to get a custom return pipe welded on to the elbow.  The other thing that needs to be done is to have a hole drilled for the vacuum port.  The rubber vacuum port was obtained from Advance Auto, I'll try and post the part number.  Just look at the parts list I have above, that's what you need to order (except for the vacuum port) to get it working.    

Raymond

[Rayman4449]

The part number I had for the LS1 MAF and the one we ordered was AC Delco #213-353 or GM Dealer #25179711.

[Welderwiz]

Ramond
excluding the visual fact, can this mod be adjusted to pass smog requirements? Is the fuel system that adjustable? Im in the process of doing the 1G MAS swap but I'll stop right now ;D You have me very interested

Mark

[HotrodTSi]

Raymond, can you tell me the setting on the adjustment knobs that you and your brother are using.

I've been wanting/waiting for someone to try this on a StarQuest since I read about it. Keep all of us updated!

[importwarrior]

could you do a post of the part numbers and contacts to get them at

so the mods can pin this to the top!

can you PM me the list of part numbers for this also!

thanks!

[Rayman4449]

Sorry, I've been busy and haven't been able to spend the time to provide more detail info, although we only just got this running.  What we have seen is this:

Aside from what I said before that it is much stronger and spools up quicker:

under boost, the fuel is what you set it to be.  We've been from 4 bar green on our halmeter at default settings to upper 1:1 on more reduced WOT settings.  We are now at 2 bar green (which required for his car a 15% reduction in fuel at WOT) and it runs best there for his car.

Under cruise on the highway, we have it set so the meter reads (bounces within) 1:1 all the time, never rich, never lean.  The meter is that good and accurate!  Also, get this... on flat land on the freeway, he runs a constant 2-3 psi boost! (on the autometer gauge)  I've never seen this before.

Idle is awsome and the engine just purrs.  

The translator comes with a manual to explain how everthing works, there are 4 dip switchs and like 4-5 turn knobs with a number of settings.  We set the dip switch for the 3.5 maf, I think default on everything except for WOT which is 15% reduced.  Everyone will need to play with the settings on your own car based on your mods and system condition.

It should be noted that my brother's setup is as follows:
Stage 3 engine, 18g turbo, tep 500hp fuel pump, 2.5" exhaust straight back with hardpipe kit.

To Welderwiz, oh yes, I think most definately.  I think this setup is perfect to get you past a smog inspection.  Lean that puppy out for the inspection, and turn right back around and set it back to where it should be.  You can reduce the idle fuel to the point the car stalls!  You can do +/- like 35% or so on fuel delivery for idle, mid throttle, and full throttle(WOT).  Plus you have a setting to set the baseline for the size injectors you are using.  This is one awesome product!

Please see the top of the post, I have update the first post with all the part numbers I have.

Oh, and in order to get the plug from the translator to plug into stock quest MAS plug, we simply took dremel and cut one side of the connector walls off of the translator plug.  Now it plugs right in, no cut wires or anything!


Raymond

[importwarrior]

great info


the connector wires comment is exactly what i was looking for:

QUOTE:
Oh, and in order to get the plug from the translator to plug into stock quest MAS plug, we simply took dremel and cut one side of the connector walls off of the translator plug.  Now it plugs right in, no cut wires or anything!

[importwarrior]

there is 2 different types, one for the 1st gen and 2nd gen

WE NEED THE FIRST GEN !

here is the link.

http://www.ramchargers.com/cgi-bin/ncommer...&cat2=29886

[kawika]

Which one do you use?




                                        David

[importwarrior]

ALL THE CORRECT PART NUMBERS ARE AT THE TOP !!!


USE THE FIRST GEN !!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Rayman4449]

And I should add about the connector wires...  When deciding which side one to cut, you want to cut the side that has the missing pins.  The 1G DSM MAS and MAS plug orginally had 7 pins.   The translator has the same size&style plug, but has the seventh pin deleted, which is great cause the Conquest plug doesn't have that pin either.  So, you cut the walls off the side missing the pins on the translator plug and carefully slide the Conquest stock MAS plug on to the Translator plug and you are good to go.  I will post pictures when I can of how the connector looks.  I hope this helps everyone!

Raymond