341 replies to this topic

[dem0ntsi]

Speed Star Racing Professor SP1 high disk in Super Black Coat
18x9 +19 front with 20mm spacer
18x10 +19 rear with 1.5 inch spacer
Muteki Lug nuts in red

[Mech]

demon, did you have to use longer lug nut studs in the back?

[JustPaus_88TSi]

With that thick of a spacer, he definately used bolt-on units.

As far as I know, there's only one brand available for longer studs for our cars. And neither of them would work with a spacer that thick.

[Mech]

when you say "bolt on unit", do you mean hes using bolts instead of studs and nuts? just asking because he says he listed "Muteki Lug nuts in red" in his thread.

Edited by Mech, 11 November 2008 - 10:23 AM.

[Technology]

like this:

[Mech]

^^ I get it now.  thanks

[dem0ntsi]

when you say "bolt on unit", do you mean hes using bolts instead of studs and nuts? just asking because he says he listed "Muteki Lug nuts in red" in his thread.

I just wanted red lug nuts to offset the color of my car

[dmyers151]

i've always wanted to see these on a quest ever since i had my first one like 5 years ago

[spltscnd95sol]

I just wanted red lug nuts to offset the color of my car

it's looks really good!!! good choice!!!  

i think he used these ichiba or project kics (these are bolt on), they make it for mitsubishi with hubcentric ring...i believe up to 30mm:



you guys probably know this info but here you go anyway...those thinking of using hubcentric wheel spacers 5x114.3 with 67.1 hub diameter:

Mitsubishi Bolt Pattern

Edited by spltscnd95sol, 11 November 2008 - 03:25 PM.

[Fanta]

i've always wanted to see these on a quest ever since i had my first one like 5 years ago

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yo3sGCnTXEw

[boogie]

I wanted these for my 07 stang so bad before i sold it but they were backordered for a yr, so now i wish i could get them on the quest.


Shelby razor's (American Racing)
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/attachment.p...mp;d=1210190813

Edited by boogie, 19 November 2008 - 09:23 AM.

[starion1991]

I got a set of staggered super advans that ill get on the purple starion soon...sorry...no pics as of now.

[Dave-O]

Not sure if I should post this here, as I don't have this wheelset yet, but I did get some measurements as per http://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp and info from eBay.



OE Wheels Mustang Cobra R replicas, staggered at 17x9" +24mm, and 17x10.5" +27mm. $499 Shipped to lower 48. Probably one of the most affordable options for our cars.

*Note - measurements are based upon OEM non-SHP wheel fitment; fronts are referenced to 16x7+18, and rears are referenced to 16x8-10.*

Front
17x9+24 ----- 245/40-17

*Without spacer, [+24 ET]
-26mm [1"] closer to suspension components than stock.
-Will stick out 14mm [.55"] further.

*With 25mm [1"] spacer, [-1 ET]
-same distance from suspension components as stock.
-Will stick out 36mm [1.4"] further.


Rear
17x10.5+27 -- 275/35-17

*Without spacer, [+27 ET]
-62mm [2.44"] closer to suspension components than stock.
-Leaves more fender room than OEM.

*With 25mm [1"] spacer, [+2 ET]
-37mm [1.45"] closer to suspension components than stock.
-Will stick out 13mm [.52"] further.

Looks like if there's an additional inch of space to be had with both front and rear suspensions [never measured my OEM wheel clearances before I sold them], the fronts could be used without a spacer and sit flush, where the rears would need a one-inch spacer and sit roughly pretty flush. I'll probably be buying the staggered set for city driving and shows, and a standard 17x9" set [same price as the staggered at $499 shipped] for the rears to be used for drifting [with a one-inch spacer, the 17x9"+24s should sit roughly the same to the fender as stock 8"s and come only half-an-inch closer to stock suspension components].

[JustPaus_88TSi]

The math is wrong Dave.


17x9(+24mm) will sit 31mm closer to the strut, and extend 19mm further outwards versus a 7(+18mm).

There is zero possibility that those will fit on the fronts, even with coilovers and cut spring perches.
Compared to my 8.5(+15mm) front fitment, those 17x9's will have 15mm less clearance to the strut(not possible) and the face will be set 3mm inward.   I'd have to check my setup and measure it, but I really don't think I have that much clearance.


17x10.5(+27mm) will sit 69mm closer to the strut and the rims face will set 5mm more inward compared to stock.

I would need to run a 30mm spacer on those rears to make them sit like my 10.5's do.

In reality, the 9" fronts will need a spacer and i'd have to figure a way to bring the rears out futher to match the track widths.

[dem0ntsi]

if you run a 25mm spacer up front it will be flush.. my hot wheels have the same specs for the fronts and I run a 25mm spacer, no clearance issues with the strut.  If they come in 17x9 +0 that would be the way to go for the fronts

[Dave-O]

Thanks for the input fellas. I've got a few 240sx buddies that called dibs on these wheels if they don't fit, so worst-case I'm not out anything if they don't fit.

Edited by Dave-O, 21 December 2008 - 12:04 PM.

[on3 racing]

ok once again im lost since im new to imports. the whole mm thing is killing me. im used to inches of back spacing. the + and - stuff is confusing

i really have not seen anyone post a certain back spacing that is write or not.

im looking into some custom wheels so i wont have to use any spacer i dont want the wheel to be flush with the side of the car but pretty close say 1/4 inch in.

i want 17 or 18 inch wheels with 9 up front (if possible) and 10's in the back.

can you guys give me an idea. i like the look of the blue cars wheels. i just dont want to have to use a spacer.

i trying to figure out what is what when you add a spacer. kind of confusing

so far i have fgured that the higher the number of -**mm the more the wheel will set in, correct? like 5.5" goin to 6.5" bs would be a numerically higher -** like -25mm to -40mm

let me know if im clueless on this

[Sully]

basically yes...  The offset is the distance of the hub face from the center of the wheel.  so a 10" wheel with a 5" back space should theoretically be 0 OffSet.  

This should explain it


so if the the wheel has a +24 offset...  the hub face surface is 24mm "offset" from center to the wheel face.

If a wheel has -10 offset, the hub face is 10mm "offset" from the centerline of the wheel towards the brake components.

Offsets do suck big time.  Its so much easier to measure backspacing to components.  I usually measure backspace then input backspace and wheel dimensions to an online calculator to find offset.


Also.. if you want custom wheels that don't need a spacer, 99% of the time, You'll have to get them custom made to your specifications.  I have only seen one set that fit correctly and they were custom Boyd's on Busdrivers old car.

Edited by Sully, 12 January 2009 - 11:06 AM.

[on3 racing]

thanks that makes alot more since

yeah, im thinking about either getting ccw, fiske, or budnik they all do custom rims

there are a few other

esajianwheels
introwheels
iforged

but all are gonna be about 2k for the wheels alone. i think esajianwheels and budnik are prob the most resonable priced. you should be able to get a set of new wheels for about 1600.00

[dem0ntsi]

Well you have to ask yourself how flush do you want it?  Some people dont like that look.  My Gullflames were sunk in but they fit fine with no clearance issues without the spacers.