yoshi Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 (edited) well I totally forgot to mention that when we pulled the head off we found that there is pitting/rust in the cylinder walls...I am assuming that since this area is suppose to be nice ,smooth and shiny that this is not a good thing!!! Fanta has a whole engine here but something is wrong with it as he took it out of his palermo cause of a knock, I am at a loss as to what to do if I should try to see what is wrong with Fantas old engine and see if it is usable or should I pull my engine and have it honed and magnufluxed and see if there are any other rust anywhere else like the very important parts in there...sorry don't know the right terminology! I hate rust and now have it pitting in the cylinder walls. Does this mean that this engine block is no good? I will take the head off of Fantas old engine tomorrow and see what it looks like, but still need to know if the block and cylinders are ok on it,,, but have no idea on where and how to start. At this point in time I am frustrated and dissappointed all I want to do is buy another car..in running condition or something very minor to get it going..like starter, alternator, or needing to put gas in it...lol so that I can make it to Pigeon forge this year, and slowly resurrect a new engine for my flatty Anyone have any suggestions? what should I do, what is my next step????? Anyone think that my engine block is any good? Edited April 28, 2008 by yoshi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macrophage Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 It depends, Did you hone your block already? if you didint you are probably ok but if the pits are passed .40 you might have problems. i think the max hone is .40? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 just hone it out and use it, get the hone and do it yourself, you'll get most of it out and some pits may remain and end up as small pockets that will hold some oil -and burn it. The amount you hone out won't effect too much your ring end gap -try it you'll see. If you don't like how it looks afterwards its not going to effect it being able to be bored out and rehoned. If its an old motor you should hone it anyway not put new rings in old cylinders and expect anything but an oil burner cause the new rings aren't going to seat the same on old honing marks its really very easy to do, when you're done take some fine sandpaper, like 1000grit and smooth the top bevel/chamfer off where you have to slide the new rings into the cylinders, don't sand the cylinder just the bevel but remember rings don't go all the way to the top anyway so if you get down little too far it won't make any difference you can get them with stones or you can get one of those that looks like a big hair brush go get some navel jelly at walmart and put it in those cylinders first, it will eat that rust off don't try and hone the rust it needs to be gone first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshi Posted April 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 just hone it out and use it, get the hone and do it yourself, you'll get most of it out and some pits may remain and end up as small pockets that will hold some oil -and burn it. The amount you hone out won't effect too much your ring end gap -try it you'll see. If you don't like how it looks afterwards its not going to effect it being able to be bored out and rehoned. If its an old motor you should hone it anyway not put new rings in old cylinders and expect anything but an oil burner cause the new rings aren't going to seat the same on old honing marks its really very easy to do, when you're done take some fine sandpaper, like 1000grit and smooth the top bevel/chamfer off where you have to slide the new rings into the cylinders, don't sand the cylinder just the bevel but remember rings don't go all the way to the top anyway so if you get down little too far it won't make any difference you can get them with stones or you can get one of those that looks like a big hair brush go get some navel jelly at walmart and put it in those cylinders first, it will eat that rust off don't try and hone the rust it needs to be gone first Thanks will give it a shot ans see what happens! Would anything else be rusted under the cyclinder head? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 I thought you had the motor torn down alreaedy? the rings would have some rust but you are using new rings right? same goes for the valve seats but they should be ok, you could take them out and just hand lap them if you want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 I thought you had the motor torn down alreaedy? the rings would have some rust but you are using new rings right? same goes for the valve seats but they should be ok, you could take them out and just hand lap them if you want The motor has the head off, but it is currently sitting in the flatty with a cover over the cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Had my flatty up for sale earlier and not much interest. PM me if you're serious....but anyhow, good luck with your engine build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshi Posted April 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 It depends, Did you hone your block already? if you didint you are probably ok but if the pits are passed .40 you might have problems. i think the max hone is .40? No Have not honed the block yet?...wow so there is still hope Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshi Posted April 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 Had my flatty up for sale earlier and not much interest. PM me if you're serious....but anyhow, good luck with your engine build. thanks...she is going to look phat like some of those Ausie starions...Flatties can look pretty cool if done right! I just hope I do it right...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift1313 Posted May 1, 2008 Report Share Posted May 1, 2008 worse case you could use fantas block, your crank, rods, pistons with new rings and check the oil pump to make sure its okay and in spec. If you use fantas block i would have it dipped and then hone it. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted May 1, 2008 Report Share Posted May 1, 2008 Drop it off at my shop and I will hone it for Free! Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowquest Posted May 1, 2008 Report Share Posted May 1, 2008 Careful Dad, i've got 3 blocks sitting here that may end up on your doorstep if you keep talking like that.... lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshi Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 (edited) Drop it off at my shop and I will hone it for Free! Dad Thanks Dad,, I appreciate it! We got it honed, and it feels pretty darn smooth... I know it is dirty around the cylinders cause when I moved them dirty oil came up! Any way other than having to remove the block to clean all that out? Is there some way of pressure flushing them? Just trying to make it easy on myself. Suzanne Edited May 2, 2008 by yoshi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshi Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 (edited) worse case you could use fantas block, your crank, rods, pistons with new rings and check the oil pump to make sure its okay and in spec. If you use fantas block i would have it dipped and then hone it. good luck Hi Shift1313 Well got it honed, and it feels smooth but have not removed the pistons, and I know it is pretty dirty around the pistons! Is there and easy way of getting it cleaned around there without pulling the block? Suzanne Edited May 2, 2008 by yoshi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 You are not that far from pulling the engine, heads off, pans off, Just pull it and start out clean. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowquest Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 Hi Shift1313 Well got it honed, and it feels smooth but have not removed the pistons, and I know it is pretty dirty around the pistons! Is there and easy way of getting it cleaned around there without pulling the block? Suzanne got it honed but didn't remove the pistons? I don't think that's a good idea, all the stuff that you honed off, is now sitting on the piston and top ring. That's gonna cause problems. Plus, you haven't honed where the piston is currently sitting. I'd def recommend removing the engine to get this stuff done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshi Posted May 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 You are not that far from pulling the engine, heads off, pans off, Just pull it and start out clean. Dad I was afraid someone would say that...LOL,,,but if it is going to save possible future problems later, then I shall do it! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshi Posted May 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 I was afraid someone would say that...LOL,,,but if it is going to save possible future problems later, then I shall do it! Thanks Thanks for all your advice, project is well underway My flatty is going to be a beauty..when it is all finished thanks to everyones advice and help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift1313 Posted May 3, 2008 Report Share Posted May 3, 2008 i agree you cant hone the thing without pulling the pistons because you will never get the entire cylinder wall. I have pulled pistons/rods out before with the block in the car. Its not fun but it is possible. When you pull every thing apart make sure you not only mark which piston/rod came from which cylinder but also the orientation of the rod cap. you dont want to put them on wrong as they are bored in one orientation. good luck yoshi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshi Posted May 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 i agree you cant hone the thing without pulling the pistons because you will never get the entire cylinder wall. I have pulled pistons/rods out before with the block in the car. Its not fun but it is possible. When you pull every thing apart make sure you not only mark which piston/rod came from which cylinder but also the orientation of the rod cap. you dont want to put them on wrong as they are bored in one orientation. good luck yoshi Ok shift, what do you mean by the orientation of the rod cap? Sorry lost again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift1313 Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 http://em-ntserver.unl.edu/Mechanics-Pages/Luke-schreier/unzip/Image12.gif just make sure you note how everything bolts together. the rod has little notches in it to located the rod bearings and they are directional. before you unbolt them take a paint pen(clean the oil first) and mark 1 across the seam that splits the rod around the crank, 2 on the #2 and so on. I would mark all of them in the same way and orientation, say mark all of the passenger sides of the rods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiplee Posted May 5, 2008 Report Share Posted May 5, 2008 It depends, Did you hone your block already? if you didint you are probably ok but if the pits are passed .40 you might have problems. i think the max hone is .40? I'm sure you mean .040 vice nearly half an inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brattesani Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 I'm sure you mean .040 vice nearly half an inch. .40 is for those of us making REEEEAL power. =P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoshi Posted May 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 (edited) http://em-ntserver.unl.edu/Mechanics-Pages/Luke-schreier/unzip/Image12.gif just make sure you note how everything bolts together. the rod has little notches in it to located the rod bearings and they are directional. before you unbolt them take a paint pen(clean the oil first) and mark 1 across the seam that splits the rod around the crank, 2 on the #2 and so on. I would mark all of them in the same way and orientation, say mark all of the passenger sides of the rods. Thanks Shift for the pictorial description...Always helps bunches when you have no idea what one is talking about! Thanks again everyone for all your advice! Now I just need to find someone to help me pull the engine out...as it seems a little toooooooooooo heavy for my girly arms, will be able to remove the cylindersrs and hone the walls! OMG...just found out someone wants to buy my flatty....NO I say...NO deal!!!! AND ITS NOT EVEN FOR SALE Edited May 14, 2008 by yoshi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jahjah Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 Thanks Shift for the pictorial description...Always helps bunches when you have no idea what one is talking about! Thanks again everyone for all your advice! Now I just need to find someone to help me pull the engine out...as it seems a little toooooooooooo heavy for my girly arms, will be able to remove the cylindersrs and hone the walls! OMG...just found out someone wants to buy my flatty....NO I say...NO deal!!!! AND ITS NOT EVEN FOR SALE hell yes i want that sucker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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