speed racer Posted May 11, 2013 Report Share Posted May 11, 2013 took TB apart a few days ago to rebuild.putting it all back.I had the vacume advance connected to the first vacume port(toward front of engine) and the 1st gen eclipse bypass valve connected to the 3rd port(closest to firewall) I searched and didn't mind much helpful and got tired of searching tday.I did see in one post tat some connect the bypass valve to the lower single port down under the TB.is that a better source for vacume? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natallica Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Hope this helps! Click Here -N8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted May 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Yeah.thanks.gonna use the lower port for my BOY and the 1st for dizzy.then cap the other two.well the third I will use for a new boost gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=28042&st=40 this is the minimum needed if you remove the vac lines.check page 3 in the link above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 thnx.Thats what I have going now.still got a wicked vacume leak.replace line to brake booster recently but thinking maybe the booster itself leaking.will remove hose and cap off intake and see if will run.,also gonna block off the bypass valve and eliminate it.it could well have a bad diaphragm now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 if you still have the ABS unit it also has vacuum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 The ABS is gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 (edited) got lucky and got off work on time tday..got to car soon as could.tried to start with brake line off and capped.NADA..again.pulled plugs and as usual wet with what I did think was gasoline.when I pulled throttle body to rebuild I had a lot of gasoline of something down intake.it smelled like gas so thought was just a lot of gas left from the stuck injector prob I had.sponged it out w shop rags.stuffed a rag down in hole and left it till got tb rebuilt.when put tb back on Saturday there was more mystery liquid.didnt think much of it.it had rained heavy during the week and thought maybe it was from that somehow.it didn't smell like gasoline so proceded to bo;t intake back on and hook up.was hard to start but it did but ran horribly as it has for a few minutes then died and wouldn't restart.......so tday after another no-start I pulled the plugs and the number 4 was wet but the others not much if at all.I decided to tear it down till I found the problem.took fuel rail off and removed injectors.opened throttle polate by and and looked down into intake w a light.ahh....flooded again with whatever...removed the TB assembly and again was treated to a gas smelling amber/yellowisg liquid.thoughtbpossibly over last couple days possibly since the master cyl is leaking a bit somehow the engine is pulling brake fuild thru.lol..crazy I know but with these cars....settled on it being coolant w some gas mixed in from the injector spray.now to figure out why.TB gasket new both times.didnt see any cracks when cleaned TB to rebuild. Edited May 15, 2013 by speed racer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 a leaking brake master can fill up the brake booster ,, you can suck the fluid out with a suction gun,, replace master and with luck be fine ,, but you will need to test the booster to see if the diaphragm is holding vacuum , this is easy,,start the engine do not touch the brake petal turn aff the engine after running it for a few minutes ,, now depress the brake petal ,release and do it again,,a good booster will have enough vacuum for 2-3 brake aplications then the petal will be hard , if it's hard on the 1st pump ,,the boost is not holding vacuum and needs to be replaced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted May 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 Its deff coolant getting into the intake.nice and green and have the brake booster line totally off.I haven't put a strait edge to it yet but I am guessing I will find a not so flate Tb mounting area nor the base of the TB itself.I wanna block off and eliminate coolant flowing thru the throttle body.I live 30 min from Alabama border in TN so freezing not a big issue.will still have water running under the intake to the bypass hose...just not up thru the throttle body.I have no EGR either...block off plate in it's place and no jet valaves either so....just one more thing to eliminate before the desired conversion to MPI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 20, 2013 Report Share Posted May 20, 2013 take a sanding block to intake inj housing base area and bottom of inj housing,,then use a fel pro gasket with a thin film of rtv on intake and inj houseing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted May 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 that's exactly what I have done.will finish up and give a shot in day or so.replacing all the vacume lines again as well as part of the rubbery intercooler hose that is very cracked up on each end.this summer will build some hard pipes but for now this fix should be fine.I live in southern middle TN so TB freezing not an issue here and now one less hose to leak.will update w a few pics when get going in a few days. It took about 3 hours of carefully 'plaining' the bottom side of the TB using a piece of emery cloth ducty taped to my kitcen counter but it seems to have worked great.in just a few passes the outter perimeter of the TB was clean but took a while before inner circle to clean up.wish I had thought to do that back about a yr ago when I put it all back together.Had a lot on my mind back then so no surprise I had problems with getting it to start and run/drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 yep it is amazeing just how unflat things can get over time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted May 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Got it all back together and it starts and runs.pig rich and belches black smoke.atleast its not white from leaking coolant anymore but with te one problem resolved another shows its ugly head.,will skip a te how of discovering tis but seems I ave both injectoirs trying to fire while idling.The car is an 88 and shouldn't do this.it would only run if just the primary plugged up and even then its makin black smoke and choking on fuel.Unplugged the 1st gen MAS and didn't affect a thing.I still have the stock mas and will try it tmoro eve.i wouldn't think a bad mas would cause my weird problem but these aren't normal fuel injected cars so anything possible.even when the car reached operating temp it still ran pig rich.wiring harness not perfect but not butchered either..just 20+ yrs old as is the car.Most everything is as it was last time the car ran and drove several yrs ago.last time I drove it back in January it ran pretty good....didn't belch black smoke or even miss.just wouldnt restart immediately after shutting down.now its a gawd owfull mess and im about to yank all the stock fuel injection and spend the $$$$ to go MPI and standalone.That's a headache in itself but considering the aggravation the stock system has been in last few months.,.i'm willing to pull the trigger on the conversion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 a shorted out TPS will cause both injs to fire , for now unplug the sec inj and incert a led inj tester in the clip,,when the light goes out the problem is fixed , and you won't be filling the oil with gas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speed racer Posted May 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2013 (edited) How am I supposed to fix that other than replace the TPS?I voltage checked it a while back and it works.as in the voltage changes as the throttle plate is opened or closed.a digital VOM is my main way of testing most anything on the car electrical. while te car was running i listened to the primary with a stephasope (idk how to spell that for sure) and it wasn't making normal fast clicking sounds but i lower toned slower clicking...if that makes sense. I checked voltage at each injector clip and have 9-10 volts,it varies between 9.28 volts and 10.2 volts but hat may just be because was just holding probs into clips and trying to hold flashlite.....that's w the key in RUN position. Edited May 29, 2013 by speed racer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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