12 replies to this topic

[bha280]

Anybody ever use these? Benefits over single spring? Anything I should know about installing them?

[dstar88]

i have em on my car.. your better off savin up and gettin that full coilover set up if its still being produced.

[Goddard]

I had the Cosmo dual spring setup over Tokico blues.  Without the helper spring the car will leave the main spring (suspension unloaded) then clunk back hard when the weight of the car returns to it.  This can't be good for the aluminum top hats, etc. or suspension in general.  Now I only tried the rear setup but I'm sure the front would do the same thing.  The back was a bit bouncy with or without the extra spring.  It's a decent/inexpensive kit probably best for someone on a budget who wants to lower the car for the look, a bit of performance and maybe so some autocrossing.  If I were doing it again I'd go with Ground Control dual or progressive springs and use the MR2 inserts/shocks that have adjustable rebounding.  That way you could always change to a different spring rate/length/whatever.  Now there are some complete setups coming along finally from reputable companies but they are not cheap.

Bottom line - def go with the dual springs if you're ordering Cosmo's IMO.

Edited by Goddard, 07 April 2012 - 05:40 PM.

[bha280]

Thanks for the input. I already ordered them and they're going over Tokiko blues too.

[D_Venable]

I run single spring setups on both my cars, with no clunking. My Flatty has the single spring Cosmos, my Durban has artinist (Anti-M) sleevovers (same thing but with longer threaded sleeves) Almost any "clunking" that I've heard on anyone's setup isn't the spring/tophat, but actually the strut shaft in the isolators/mounts.

When you switch to these types of springs, you loose the stock tophat, which sits on the keyed ("D"-shaped) segment of the strut shaft. The new aluminum tophats I've found sit lower than the stock hats. this allows that keyed section to go up into the bearing up front, and the hole in the rear. although it may look torqued down, you've actually only bottomed out the nut on the threads. that small gap is then was causes most of all the clunking (aside from some major 3-wheeling action, or setting down from being jacked up in the air)

This gap then needs spaced from the bottom to keep that keyed area of the shaft out of the mounts (my fronts became wedged HARD in the front bearings because of this). a few grade 8 washers (I believe 5/8", but measure it yourself to be sure) cures almost any clunking issues with single springs.

Another thing that can cause clunking is that the threaded sleeve itself is moving, which if it's not installed correctly can and will move on you. Electrical tape and some 2.25" exhaust tubing will cure that when installing. (the stuff they come with to remedy the gap is harder to install)

It really comes down to personal preference on your part, but iirc the single spring setup will allow you to go lower in the end

-Derek

Edited by D_Venable, 07 April 2012 - 07:15 PM.

[dstar88]

yea thats why im gona get rid of mine eventually.

what els is comin out now? or whos making the complete sets? i havnt been around for some time now, seems like quite a bit has changed. all i know is D2 is making sets for us?

[bha280]

Speaking of the gap on the threaded base; the kit just comes with different sized o-rings and says to use electrical tape if those aren't thick enough. I got an o-ring to make it snug but feel uncomfotable with just that and 6 little screws holding it in place. I'm assuming it would be wise to fill up the whole gap with electrical tape?

[D_Venable]

- Get a piece of 2.25" exhaust tubing (18" piece will do all 4 corners).

- Wrap 2 bands of electrical tape around the strut, at the top and bottom of where the tubing will sit. should only take a couple times around until the tubing goes on snug.

- Repeat above with electrical tape around the tubing so the threaded sleeve then goes on snug as well.


***Please note that these pics are on a shortened housing for an MR-2 insert conversion with new lower spring perch.

With tubing after a couple wraps of electrical tape under (I guess I forgot to grab a pic of just the tape on the strut)




Tape around the tubing




Threaded sleeve installed

[Goddard]

When I jacked my car in the rear and let the suspension hang, it opened up at least a 2" gap from the top of the aluminum plate that sits on the spring to the the bottom of the stock metal plate (w/ D-hole) attached to my slotted aluminum strut mount.  When I installed the helper spring, it took up that slack.  Agreed I couldn't drop the car as low with the secondary spring.  I'm not saying my car left the spring often but it obviously was possible.

Edited by Goddard, 08 April 2012 - 06:14 PM.

[Goddard]

Before -



After (I also shortened and flattened the stock plate with the D-hole when installing the secondary spring) -

[D_Venable]

HAHA, you call that a gap     (being a little sarcastic, don't take it to seriously)


I just took the MR2 setup off my flatty

[Goddard]

LOL

[bha280]

My Tokiko don't look like that. Are those pics of your rears? You cut the spring searches off? Also, o noticed your helper springs on top, the way mine came packaged they were on the bottom and I was going to put them in that way.

Edited by bha280, 09 April 2012 - 07:48 AM.