Jump to content



Dual spring Cosmos


  • Please log in to reply
12 replies to this topic

#1 bha280

bha280

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,261 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Pensacola, FL
  • Interests:Stuff and junk
  • Model:Starion

Posted 07 April 2012 - 03:26 PM

Anybody ever use these? Benefits over single spring? Anything I should know about installing them?
1988 Starion 5-speed- AMC head, Schnider HD springs and 284 cam, Wiseco's, Pauter Rods, adjustable cam gear, ported S16g (soon to be mega ported Evo III 16G), 2.5" turbo back w/ high-flo cat and HKS catback, lightend/balanced flywheel, polished/balanced crank, SS braided oil and coolant lines for turbo, full hardpipes w/ TurboXS BOV and MBC, Trilogy injectors, MSD blaster 2 coil, 8.5mm wires, stress relieved and ported exhaust manifold, ported intake manifold, LSP 52mm TB, ARP everything, EGR and cruise removed, silicon vacuum lines, STB's front and rear, ABS delete, 3" GM MAF-T, D/S rotors, SS brake lines, Innovate wideband, adjustable FPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, AutoMeter boost gauge, GM alternator, SS clutch line, meshies, factory hatch spoiler, mud flaps, Tokikos front and rear, Cosmo dual-spring Coilovers, Mookeh pillow ball camber plates F/R, rebuilt trans, all new mounts, MSD 6a and tach adapter sitting in my garage





#2 dstar88

dstar88

    ...An Ocean Between Us...

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,289 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Jacksonville, NC
  • Interests:play my bass guitar, work on cars/motorcycles, play baseball, work out and be a US Marine.
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 07 April 2012 - 04:36 PM

i have em on my car.. your better off savin up and gettin that full coilover set up if its still being produced.

View PostLaodicea, on 25 May 2010 - 12:16 PM, said:

  I have a B.S. in Psych and I am a Sociopath as well..I choose to admit it.

88 quest:
2.25" d/p w/ 3" cat back & 3" aero muff. (needs to be redone)
marnal head from dad ready for .5 lift w/1.6 rollers & Timc's Ausie roller cam., adj. cam gear
felpro 8770 smashed down w/arp's
Accel 8mm wires w/MSD SS coil.
o-ringed block(copper o-ring), 8:1 wiseco's .30 over, race prep'd rods, polished crank to standard bore w/more arp's
Bosch fuel pump w/ Aeromotive rrfpr @ 38-40  & new replacement FIC injectors
3" GM Maf w/ maf-t (blow through set up)
Inovate lc-1 wideband
XTD - stage 3 clutch
port matched intake, ported exhaust housing
aftermarket front mount I/C with custom I/C pipping.
ported 17c @/13 psi...for now..
...how much hp is that???
(apparently the same as my old engine @ 17lbs with the 17c,...... 249lbs of tq. 182 h/p all at the wheels)


:WARNING: constant nooblet questions and lack of knowledge on the G54B turbo engine, will result in constant criticism of said nooblet questions, and failure to understand that there is no DOHC head., please read terms of agreement and check the box stating that you are said to be over the age of 18, then proceed at your own risk.
Posted Image
Posted ImagePosted Image

#3 Goddard

Goddard

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 992 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Columbus, OH
  • Interests:art, cars, snowboarding...
  • Model:Other

Posted 07 April 2012 - 05:37 PM

I had the Cosmo dual spring setup over Tokico blues.  Without the helper spring the car will leave the main spring (suspension unloaded) then clunk back hard when the weight of the car returns to it.  This can't be good for the aluminum top hats, etc. or suspension in general.  Now I only tried the rear setup but I'm sure the front would do the same thing.  The back was a bit bouncy with or without the extra spring.  It's a decent/inexpensive kit probably best for someone on a budget who wants to lower the car for the look, a bit of performance and maybe so some autocrossing.  If I were doing it again I'd go with Ground Control dual or progressive springs and use the MR2 inserts/shocks that have adjustable rebounding.  That way you could always change to a different spring rate/length/whatever.  Now there are some complete setups coming along finally from reputable companies but they are not cheap.

Bottom line - def go with the dual springs if you're ordering Cosmo's IMO.

Edited by Goddard, 07 April 2012 - 05:40 PM.

Posted Image

#4 bha280

bha280

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,261 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Pensacola, FL
  • Interests:Stuff and junk
  • Model:Starion

Posted 07 April 2012 - 07:10 PM

Thanks for the input. I already ordered them and they're going over Tokiko blues too.
1988 Starion 5-speed- AMC head, Schnider HD springs and 284 cam, Wiseco's, Pauter Rods, adjustable cam gear, ported S16g (soon to be mega ported Evo III 16G), 2.5" turbo back w/ high-flo cat and HKS catback, lightend/balanced flywheel, polished/balanced crank, SS braided oil and coolant lines for turbo, full hardpipes w/ TurboXS BOV and MBC, Trilogy injectors, MSD blaster 2 coil, 8.5mm wires, stress relieved and ported exhaust manifold, ported intake manifold, LSP 52mm TB, ARP everything, EGR and cruise removed, silicon vacuum lines, STB's front and rear, ABS delete, 3" GM MAF-T, D/S rotors, SS brake lines, Innovate wideband, adjustable FPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, AutoMeter boost gauge, GM alternator, SS clutch line, meshies, factory hatch spoiler, mud flaps, Tokikos front and rear, Cosmo dual-spring Coilovers, Mookeh pillow ball camber plates F/R, rebuilt trans, all new mounts, MSD 6a and tach adapter sitting in my garage

#5 D_Venable

D_Venable

    Have you had your boost today?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 6,583 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Rogers, MN
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 07 April 2012 - 07:11 PM

I run single spring setups on both my cars, with no clunking. My Flatty has the single spring Cosmos, my Durban has artinist (Anti-M) sleevovers (same thing but with longer threaded sleeves) Almost any "clunking" that I've heard on anyone's setup isn't the spring/tophat, but actually the strut shaft in the isolators/mounts.

When you switch to these types of springs, you loose the stock tophat, which sits on the keyed ("D"-shaped) segment of the strut shaft. The new aluminum tophats I've found sit lower than the stock hats. this allows that keyed section to go up into the bearing up front, and the hole in the rear. although it may look torqued down, you've actually only bottomed out the nut on the threads. that small gap is then was causes most of all the clunking (aside from some major 3-wheeling action, or setting down from being jacked up in the air)

This gap then needs spaced from the bottom to keep that keyed area of the shaft out of the mounts (my fronts became wedged HARD in the front bearings because of this). a few grade 8 washers (I believe 5/8", but measure it yourself to be sure) cures almost any clunking issues with single springs.

Another thing that can cause clunking is that the threaded sleeve itself is moving, which if it's not installed correctly can and will move on you. Electrical tape and some 2.25" exhaust tubing will cure that when installing. (the stuff they come with to remedy the gap is harder to install)

It really comes down to personal preference on your part, but iirc the single spring setup will allow you to go lower in the end

-Derek

Edited by D_Venable, 07 April 2012 - 07:15 PM.

2011 Silverado
85 Conquest aka DTHSTAR (215whp/251tq on a 12a at 15psi) RIP (for now)
88 TSI parts car
88 TSI SHP Durban Maroon 17C TD05H, MAFT, 9's all around, 13" brakes, MR2's with Anti-M's
Posted Image

#6 dstar88

dstar88

    ...An Ocean Between Us...

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 2,289 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Jacksonville, NC
  • Interests:play my bass guitar, work on cars/motorcycles, play baseball, work out and be a US Marine.
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 07 April 2012 - 08:24 PM

yea thats why im gona get rid of mine eventually.

what els is comin out now? or whos making the complete sets? i havnt been around for some time now, seems like quite a bit has changed. all i know is D2 is making sets for us?

View PostLaodicea, on 25 May 2010 - 12:16 PM, said:

  I have a B.S. in Psych and I am a Sociopath as well..I choose to admit it.

88 quest:
2.25" d/p w/ 3" cat back & 3" aero muff. (needs to be redone)
marnal head from dad ready for .5 lift w/1.6 rollers & Timc's Ausie roller cam., adj. cam gear
felpro 8770 smashed down w/arp's
Accel 8mm wires w/MSD SS coil.
o-ringed block(copper o-ring), 8:1 wiseco's .30 over, race prep'd rods, polished crank to standard bore w/more arp's
Bosch fuel pump w/ Aeromotive rrfpr @ 38-40  & new replacement FIC injectors
3" GM Maf w/ maf-t (blow through set up)
Inovate lc-1 wideband
XTD - stage 3 clutch
port matched intake, ported exhaust housing
aftermarket front mount I/C with custom I/C pipping.
ported 17c @/13 psi...for now..
...how much hp is that???
(apparently the same as my old engine @ 17lbs with the 17c,...... 249lbs of tq. 182 h/p all at the wheels)


:WARNING: constant nooblet questions and lack of knowledge on the G54B turbo engine, will result in constant criticism of said nooblet questions, and failure to understand that there is no DOHC head., please read terms of agreement and check the box stating that you are said to be over the age of 18, then proceed at your own risk.
Posted Image
Posted ImagePosted Image

#7 bha280

bha280

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,261 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Pensacola, FL
  • Interests:Stuff and junk
  • Model:Starion

Posted 08 April 2012 - 09:00 AM

Speaking of the gap on the threaded base; the kit just comes with different sized o-rings and says to use electrical tape if those aren't thick enough. I got an o-ring to make it snug but feel uncomfotable with just that and 6 little screws holding it in place. I'm assuming it would be wise to fill up the whole gap with electrical tape?
1988 Starion 5-speed- AMC head, Schnider HD springs and 284 cam, Wiseco's, Pauter Rods, adjustable cam gear, ported S16g (soon to be mega ported Evo III 16G), 2.5" turbo back w/ high-flo cat and HKS catback, lightend/balanced flywheel, polished/balanced crank, SS braided oil and coolant lines for turbo, full hardpipes w/ TurboXS BOV and MBC, Trilogy injectors, MSD blaster 2 coil, 8.5mm wires, stress relieved and ported exhaust manifold, ported intake manifold, LSP 52mm TB, ARP everything, EGR and cruise removed, silicon vacuum lines, STB's front and rear, ABS delete, 3" GM MAF-T, D/S rotors, SS brake lines, Innovate wideband, adjustable FPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, AutoMeter boost gauge, GM alternator, SS clutch line, meshies, factory hatch spoiler, mud flaps, Tokikos front and rear, Cosmo dual-spring Coilovers, Mookeh pillow ball camber plates F/R, rebuilt trans, all new mounts, MSD 6a and tach adapter sitting in my garage

#8 D_Venable

D_Venable

    Have you had your boost today?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 6,583 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Rogers, MN
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 08 April 2012 - 10:08 AM

- Get a piece of 2.25" exhaust tubing (18" piece will do all 4 corners).

- Wrap 2 bands of electrical tape around the strut, at the top and bottom of where the tubing will sit. should only take a couple times around until the tubing goes on snug.

- Repeat above with electrical tape around the tubing so the threaded sleeve then goes on snug as well.


***Please note that these pics are on a shortened housing for an MR-2 insert conversion with new lower spring perch.

With tubing after a couple wraps of electrical tape under (I guess I forgot to grab a pic of just the tape on the strut)

Posted Image


Tape around the tubing

Posted Image


Threaded sleeve installed

Posted Image
2011 Silverado
85 Conquest aka DTHSTAR (215whp/251tq on a 12a at 15psi) RIP (for now)
88 TSI parts car
88 TSI SHP Durban Maroon 17C TD05H, MAFT, 9's all around, 13" brakes, MR2's with Anti-M's
Posted Image

#9 Goddard

Goddard

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 992 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Columbus, OH
  • Interests:art, cars, snowboarding...
  • Model:Other

Posted 08 April 2012 - 06:07 PM

When I jacked my car in the rear and let the suspension hang, it opened up at least a 2" gap from the top of the aluminum plate that sits on the spring to the the bottom of the stock metal plate (w/ D-hole) attached to my slotted aluminum strut mount.  When I installed the helper spring, it took up that slack.  Agreed I couldn't drop the car as low with the secondary spring.  I'm not saying my car left the spring often but it obviously was possible.

Edited by Goddard, 08 April 2012 - 06:14 PM.

Posted Image

#10 Goddard

Goddard

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 992 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Columbus, OH
  • Interests:art, cars, snowboarding...
  • Model:Other

Posted 08 April 2012 - 06:31 PM

Before -
Posted Image


After (I also shortened and flattened the stock plate with the D-hole when installing the secondary spring) -

Posted Image

Posted Image
Posted Image

#11 D_Venable

D_Venable

    Have you had your boost today?

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 6,583 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Rogers, MN
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 08 April 2012 - 06:35 PM

HAHA, you call that a gap     (being a little sarcastic, don't take it to seriously)


I just took the MR2 setup off my flatty

Posted Image
2011 Silverado
85 Conquest aka DTHSTAR (215whp/251tq on a 12a at 15psi) RIP (for now)
88 TSI parts car
88 TSI SHP Durban Maroon 17C TD05H, MAFT, 9's all around, 13" brakes, MR2's with Anti-M's
Posted Image

#12 Goddard

Goddard

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 992 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Columbus, OH
  • Interests:art, cars, snowboarding...
  • Model:Other

Posted 08 April 2012 - 07:09 PM

LOL
Posted Image

#13 bha280

bha280

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 1,261 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Pensacola, FL
  • Interests:Stuff and junk
  • Model:Starion

Posted 08 April 2012 - 08:44 PM

My Tokiko don't look like that. Are those pics of your rears? You cut the spring searches off? Also, o noticed your helper springs on top, the way mine came packaged they were on the bottom and I was going to put them in that way.

Edited by bha280, 09 April 2012 - 07:48 AM.

1988 Starion 5-speed- AMC head, Schnider HD springs and 284 cam, Wiseco's, Pauter Rods, adjustable cam gear, ported S16g (soon to be mega ported Evo III 16G), 2.5" turbo back w/ high-flo cat and HKS catback, lightend/balanced flywheel, polished/balanced crank, SS braided oil and coolant lines for turbo, full hardpipes w/ TurboXS BOV and MBC, Trilogy injectors, MSD blaster 2 coil, 8.5mm wires, stress relieved and ported exhaust manifold, ported intake manifold, LSP 52mm TB, ARP everything, EGR and cruise removed, silicon vacuum lines, STB's front and rear, ABS delete, 3" GM MAF-T, D/S rotors, SS brake lines, Innovate wideband, adjustable FPR, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, AutoMeter boost gauge, GM alternator, SS clutch line, meshies, factory hatch spoiler, mud flaps, Tokikos front and rear, Cosmo dual-spring Coilovers, Mookeh pillow ball camber plates F/R, rebuilt trans, all new mounts, MSD 6a and tach adapter sitting in my garage




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users