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FOR U HOLSET GUYS


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#1 jason c

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 03:03 AM

ok i scored a really nice hx35 that im wanting to install on the quest , my factory manifold is already modified for external wastegate , the turbo is setup for internal at the moment so im going to convert it to external and its water and oil so i need to know the the simpliest way to run this set up , what oil feed and return lines are u guys using can i use the factory return line or do i need to tap into the oil pan , im going to purchase a adapter for my manifold what otther modifcations am i looking at besides down pipe and intercooler piping, and what coupler is best to use on this setup to go with the piping, do i need an restrictor and what are u guys running , ive done some research and information is across the board just looking to make it simple as poss thanks jason
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#2 19cturbo

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 09:03 AM

For the water feed and return line you will need -8AN fittings, or at least thats what mine were. i had a bung welded to the thermostat housing on mine for the supply, id buy three 90 degree -8an fittings, two for each end of the supply and one for the return, i messed up and bought a 45 and a 90 for my supply. On the return you have one 90 coming straight off the turbo pointing down, and run it the the same place the factory turbo did with a clamp an fitting, I didnt weld anythign here just clamped it.

For the oil feed, you will need an adapter at the oil filter housing and want to run a -4AN line, not sure of the adapter size i got it a long time ago when i bought a stainless braided oil feed line. Now at the top of the turbo you going to want to run a restrictor, 1.5mm i believe it was, you can pick it up on ebay. 1.5mm to -4AN, and you will need one straight -4AN hose fitting and one 90 degree for the top.

For the oil drain your goint to want a -10AN line, you will run straight off of the turbo and i ran mine to the pan, just picked up a 90 degree -10AN hose end. and welded a fitting to my pan.

I have also attached a picture of my wastegate just to give you an idea for later if you go that route, i just made a bracket and bolted the stock on closed on the holset.

You can see i had to modify my down pipe, i used 3 inch V-band i also picked up off of ebay, just make sure they are steel. i just welded it to the stock holset V-band.

For the adapter i picked up off of ebay, just type in t3 to dsm flange. i would advise a cast one like the one i got.

I picked up my turbo for 230, and would say i have less than 500 in the whole turbo swap. your going to have a couple hundred in parts for putting it on.

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Edited by 19cturbo, 26 April 2012 - 02:48 PM.

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 Convette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#3 leesfer

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 11:17 AM

Which HX35 did you get exactly? Some of them are only oil cooled and some are both oil and water cooled
Edit: Nevermind, you said yours is both water and oil cooler already

I'm using a .065" restrictor which was referred to me when doing my build

The DSM guys say that -12an is the proper oil drain size

Edited by leesfer, 10 February 2012 - 11:51 AM.

1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, Schneider valve springs, roller rockers and Howlin' Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#4 Gamble88

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 11:20 AM

^^Yep and you want the biggest oil return line possible. Some dsm guys had problems with a 10an return. If you can do a 12an do a 12an.
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#5 19cturbo

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 11:37 AM

i was told to go with -10, so im not sure. not had any problems with mine so far. i believe my restrictor was .059 or 1.5 mm
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 Convette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#6 leesfer

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 01:08 PM

View Post19cturbo, on 10 February 2012 - 11:37 AM, said:

i was told to go with -10, so im not sure. not had any problems with mine so far. i believe my restrictor was .059 or 1.5 mm

1.5MM is probably a better idea than the .065" but it all depends on how large your feed line is... I'm using a 6an with the .065" and that should be good... some DSM guys use -3an feed lines with no restrictor even
1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, Schneider valve springs, roller rockers and Howlin' Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#7 19cturbo

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 01:30 PM

6 is huge for a feed, most recommend 4 if not smaller.
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 Convette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#8 leesfer

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 01:38 PM

View Post19cturbo, on 10 February 2012 - 01:30 PM, said:

6 is huge for a feed, most recommend 4 if not smaller.

6 is huge, yeah but at the time I was just using lines and fittings that I already had around... I will eventually get down to changing them
1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, Schneider valve springs, roller rockers and Howlin' Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#9 89BananaQuest

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 05:22 PM

Ok i can get an hx35 or an hx40 both are same price and shame condition witch one would u guys go with?

#10 psu_Crash

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 06:26 PM

I went with a 1.5mm restrictor and 4-an oil feed lines. The thread on the Holset for oil feed is M12x1.5 IIRC. You can get an adapter on ebay that will do the trick and even have the proper restriction.
As for where to go with the drain? I had mine run to the stock oil return for a while and then wlded a bung in the pan. Either way didn't make a difference in my case (that I know of), but I would recommend going to the pan and using 12-an line.

Edited by psu_Crash, 10 February 2012 - 06:27 PM.

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#11 leesfer

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 07:58 PM

View Post89BananaQuest, on 10 February 2012 - 05:22 PM, said:

Ok i can get an hx35 or an hx40 both are same price and shame condition witch one would u guys go with?

How many blades on the HX35?
1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, Schneider valve springs, roller rockers and Howlin' Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#12 Starwolf

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Posted 10 February 2012 - 10:15 PM

Yeah depending if its an 8 or 7 blade hx35...

Personally if i had to redo it...i would go hx40!  >:]

#13 Indiana

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 02:49 AM

View Post19cturbo, on 10 February 2012 - 09:03 AM, said:


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You see anything wrong with this picture?

#14 leesfer

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 03:22 AM

I see a couple things wrong with that picture, but which one are you referring to?
1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, Schneider valve springs, roller rockers and Howlin' Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#15 89BananaQuest

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 10:25 AM

I can find out. Are u guys talkin blades on the compressor wheel or turbine wheel?  And witch one is better 7 or 8?  Also i know there t3 flanges.  And then one of the 40's are t4

#16 leesfer

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 11:51 AM

We are talking about the blades on the compressor wheel... the 7 blade is best
1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, Schneider valve springs, roller rockers and Howlin' Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#17 psu_Crash

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 12:14 PM

View PostStarwolf, on 10 February 2012 - 10:15 PM, said:


Personally if i had to redo it...i would go hx40!  >:]

Bump the boost up to 25psi and you will sing a different tune. It's incredible how the HX35 turns into a different monster at those levels :D
BTW mine is a 7 blade with the BEP .70 A/R hotside
'86 Starion, MPI with MS2extra, Ebay To4E 57 Trim (in testing), P&P head, OS SS Valves, Wiseco +.030, ARP head/rod, RPW Roller Cam, Crower Rods,AEM H2O/Meth Injection, Mighty Max CAS 4 Direct Fire Wasted Spark, BSE, Tial 38mm, JDL exhaust mani, HKS turbo timer and EVC3, AEM UEGO, 3" DP into 2 1/2" Dual Exhaust, 85# Delphi's, Magna modded by Chad, Accufab FPR, Walbro 255, D2 Coilovers, GNT Poly Bushings and mounts, Funk-Lock, LED Tails and Dome ... etc^4
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#18 Gamble88

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 12:21 PM

I think there is a 6 blade as well. 7 is the best for the full RPM band but they are harder to find.
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#19 89BananaQuest

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 12:47 PM

Ok, just emailed him the 2 hx35's that he has are both seven blades and both. Have t3 flanges.  Any thing else i shold find out?  Or will they work?

#20 Gamble88

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Posted 11 February 2012 - 04:23 PM

What hot side is on it ?
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