46 replies to this topic

[akauf]

did you get the trans sorted out?

[yzrider]

Nope just using the extended housing. Its about 3 inches further back than stock. Im not worried about it though its not bad at all. The shifter "leans" forward too naturally so that helps make up some of the gap. Had to trim away some of the tunnel for the shifter. Going to have to play with the center console a bit but nothing too serious. Waiting on my radiator to come in and then time to finish up the front of the car.

[vettekiller593]

Just get the supra mk3 shifter

[BOHO]

He needs the entire housing and rod not just the shifter.

[yzrider]

I tried swapping the whole tail shaft that was a fail. I can't find the housing and all separate from a complete trans. Im not worried about it. I already cut the opening a bit more and it it comes out in a reasonable spot. Ill post pics once I finish that up.

[yzrider]

Is it worth having a pusher with the puller fans? Is that pointless? I think I could shove a pretty big pusher in-between the rad and intercooler.

[Komeuppance]

D-VO, on 16 April 2012 - 08:42 AM, said:

Tell me more about this bottle jack mod...

Bottle of Jack mod: drink a bottle of Jack Daniel's and then mod your car.

-Robert

[yzrider]

Is anyone able to educate me on the process of wiring this swap? As far as I can tell only two of the plugs from the harness plug into the ecu. From what I've read the last two come from the body harness? So what the heck do I do for that? Im wiring illiterate. Mechanically I've got it all basically finished up but wiring is going to be where I really need a bottle of jack mod haha

[87quest_stv]

I just test ran My 2jz on the pallet. Was 6 wires on the E10 plug and 4 wires on the body harness.
The E10 plugs into the ecu next to the E9 plug
The E10 plugs wires are: These need a +12V source. If you're just wanting to test fire, you can just connect them to + on the batt.
Pin 1
Pin 6
Pin 24
Pin 31
Pin 32
Pin 33

The E9 plug of course plugs into the ecu as well. This plug has two 40 pin plugs together separated by a bolt.

On the body harness the
F1 is the fat black wire (this is the starter signal switch)
F6 double black/orange wire is for the ignitor +12volt
F7 is brown - ground
F11 is brown - ground

Edited by 87quest_stv, 22 May 2012 - 09:52 AM.

[87quest_stv]

post a pic of the your wiring harness. You probably don't have the E10 plug which you need to plug into the third terminal on the ecu

[87quest_stv]

There's also a pin out here: scroll to the bottom of the page for the 2jzgte ecu pin out. The wire colors don't really match this list but the pin #'s and function do.
http://www.supras.nl...id=34&Itemid=50

You can also go to this link and read post #13 and download the xls file for the pin out of the Body plug.
http://www.supramani...TE-Wiring/page2

There's also this post from our forum with some good information
http://www.starquest...howtopic=124363

I was able to derive the info I needed from all these sites to get my engine fired. The info in the above links will tell you what needs to be switched 12V and what needs to be constant.

The thick black with green stripe wire that's coming off the starter needs to be hooked directly to the + side of the battery. The F1 wire on the body plug (fat 10ga black wire) is the starter signal wire.

This is the E10 plug you probably don't have. The part number is - 90980-11215 - $15.XX and can be ordered through your local toyota dealer. Don't pay attention to the color of the wires on this plug. They were taken off my old harness with the ECU female pins on them SO I wouldn't have to buy the pins as well. What's important is the location. You will probably need to buy the ECU female pins for this plug as well as some wire to connect to them.


this is the body plug if you don't have this plug you don't need it. just need the Fat black wire for starter signal (10ga) and the twin black/orange wires for ignitor to +12v (14ga i think)
and the two brown wires need to be grounded I think they are 18ga


this is the E9 plug. more than likely this is the only plug you have. This one connects to the ecu terminals that are split by the bolt hole.
On my old harness, this plug was busted.  If yours is crumbling you can order it from toyota dealer as well. part # is 90980-11214 and is roughly $22
The yellow caps on these plugs don't come with the plug from the dealer. I wasn't able to find a part number for them. I used one off my old engine harness for my new E10 plug.


Hope this at least helps you get started

Edited by 87quest_stv, 22 May 2012 - 12:24 AM.

[BOHO]

No pics of this thing...it must not really exist...

[yzrider]

tried to fire her up. no power to coils or injectors. Read up on bohos thread and asked him. Needed to wire in another plug. Found that plug. Gave both of them 12v and.....still nothing. Now im frustrated. Any tips. The plug im talking about is one of three gray plugs off the main engine harness. Needed the black/red and black/orange. What am I missing.

Edited by yzrider, 19 October 2012 - 11:22 AM.

[yzrider]

I hate cars.

[Komeuppance]

Haha, vague update.  Get it to run yet??

yzrider, on 25 August 2012 - 01:49 AM, said:

Read up on bohos thread and asked him.

There's your problem.  LOL... jokes!!

-Robert

[yzrider]

the post dated August is actually from just now edited it. been fiddling with wires since yesterday. can't figure she out.

[Komeuppance]

Ah, thought it was three months of wiring fiasco... which would be horrible.  At least it's only been a day, haha the positive point of view.

Bottle of jack mod time.

-Robert

[yzrider]

she runs! Stupid wires.

[importwarrior]

Congrats!!!!!

[BOHO]

I'm glad, Most think I can't do anything productive around here....