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How to replace oil cooler and fuel lines. Dad's tip!


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#1 Dad

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 08:26 PM

You don't have to Buy braided lines or custom lines to fix leaking fuel and/or oil cooler lines.
Here is a simple and inexpensive fix.
As long as your Banjo fittings and steel parts of the lines are in good shape  you can replace the rubber lines and reuse the metal parts.

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For the oil cooler I used 3/8 hose....
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And then you will need the matching CRIMP clamps.  
These are great clamps. I don't suggest anything but these.

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You should be able to get these at any industrial hose place.
Be sure to tell them if it's fuel or oil going in the line so you get the correct type of hose.

Then you need a dremel with cut off wheel  and pliers - a strong pair of dull wire cutters will work to crimp the clamp- as long as they don't cut the clamp.

Lets get started-  I'm sure you have already removed the lines, Put the lines in a vice.
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Now, take the cut off wheel and score a cut in the old crimp of the hose...
Be careful to just go deep enough to cut the crimp and not the steel line.
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....
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Now flip it over and do the opposite side of the crimp...
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This is what it should look like.
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Take a small screw driver and pry the crimp apart...
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You should now be able to pull the hose off exposing your line..
Now is a good time to flush out the steel lines before assembly.
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Save the protective outer covering and cut  your new hose to the same length as the old.
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Slide the clamps and hoses on the lines...  do not crimp them yet.
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Now before you crimp the lines..  You have to clock them just right so
put them close to or on the cooler and the oil filter housing and lightly crimp them or use a marker to
get the position correct.

Time to Crimp the lines.
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This works on all 3 fuel lines also. ;)

Dad

Edited by Dad, 03 December 2011 - 08:30 PM.






#2 Ironside

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 08:42 PM

Thanks Randy, Great tip.
This should be added to FAQ.
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#3 89PalermoSHP

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 10:23 PM

Great info Randy.
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#4 vbrad511

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 01:58 AM

I did this several years ago when mine were leaking badly. I didn't have a hydraulic shop anywhere nearby to get the oil rated hose or the crimps though. I used fuel injection hose and and doubled up injection clamps on each fitting. Been running like this since about 2002.

#5 Richie_Rich

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 09:51 AM

I use these at work to repair air lines and Oxy/Fuel gas hoses.

A trade name for those rings is Oetiker.
Any welding/gas supply place will carry them.
I suggest bringing in your hose and getting the correct ring.
They make a bunch of different sizes.
http://www.oetiker.c...?l=4&idNavig=28

Tile nipper pliers work pretty well for crimping.
I usually do an even 2 step crimp on both sides.
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#6 Dad

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 09:58 AM

Thank you Rich, Those are the exact clamps,  We just took our lines to  Youngstown rubber products ( http://www.midstatehose.com/ ) to match up the hose and clamps.  Picked up enough to do a few sets since we have 5 quests between the 3 of us !

Dad

#7 markhansenconquest

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 01:20 PM

MORE GOOD INFO ON HOW TO DO A GOOD JOB AND SAVE A FEW BUCK'S DOING IT YOURSELF!!!!!!!!! (NOT EVERY ONE CAN AFFORD TO HAVE SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT TO KEEP THERE BABY ALIVE) ..........I LOVE THIS SITE!!!!!!!!!!

#8 88shp

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 09:50 PM

Edit: wrong post

Edited by 88shp, 15 December 2011 - 12:07 PM.


#9 leesfer

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 11:57 AM

Does anyone know what size the banjo fittings are?
1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, roller rockers and Screaming Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

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#10 natallica

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Posted 13 February 2012 - 12:15 PM

Just installed a used "Texan88" lines so I could do this refirb to my originals...as always...Thanks Dad for the great tips!!!!

-N8

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#11 mstieg

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Posted 21 February 2012 - 01:00 PM

Great call to do this BEFORE they start to leak.

Could I humbly request a posting of the exact hose sizes & lengths (name/type) so we can all know exactly what to order? :)  (escpecially if an online source is found to be best)

- power steering hoses
- oil cooler hoses
- fuel line (metal to feed filter)
Before: 352hp @15psi MPI: SDS, Chad's intake & equal length header, S256 Bullseye turbo, 48" 2.5 IC piping, MSD  MY PICS
Now Done:  engine rebuild w/ Magna roller cam, reworked & ported AMC head, wastegate reworked, alternator/fusable links rewired, 3" alum radiator, gas tank renewal, new steering pump/box/braided lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558
In Progress: LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap, 4.22 rear, D2s/sway&strut bars, full Autometer gauges, retune
Future: ________

FOR SALE:  NIB pair of beefy U-joints, etc.  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 also Autometer gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#12 leesfer

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Posted 21 February 2012 - 01:26 PM

View Postmstieg, on 21 February 2012 - 01:00 PM, said:

Great call to do this BEFORE they start to leak.

Could I humbly request a posting of the exact hose sizes & lengths (name/type) so we can all know exactly what to order? :)  (escpecially if an online source is found to be best)

- power steering hoses
- oil cooler hoses
- fuel line (metal to feed filter)


The oil cooler lines are M16 x 1.5... I used M16 x 1.5 to 6an fittings with 6an lines
1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, roller rockers and Screaming Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

Leesfer's Build Thread

#13 mstieg

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Posted 21 February 2012 - 02:56 PM

^ I'm referring to the rubber hoses themselves as Randy (DAD) has posted in the re-making of them not totally replacing them fittings & all.
Before: 352hp @15psi MPI: SDS, Chad's intake & equal length header, S256 Bullseye turbo, 48" 2.5 IC piping, MSD  MY PICS
Now Done:  engine rebuild w/ Magna roller cam, reworked & ported AMC head, wastegate reworked, alternator/fusable links rewired, 3" alum radiator, gas tank renewal, new steering pump/box/braided lines & coupler fix: http://www.starquest...howtopic=139558
In Progress: LT1 T56 clutch & trans swap, 4.22 rear, D2s/sway&strut bars, full Autometer gauges, retune
Future: ________

FOR SALE:  NIB pair of beefy U-joints, etc.  http://www.starquest...howtopic=133262 also Autometer gauge overlay panel: http://www.starquest...pic=136703&st=0

#14 leesfer

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Posted 21 February 2012 - 04:38 PM

View Postleesfer, on 21 February 2012 - 01:26 PM, said:


6an lines


They are 6an lines, aka 3/8 lines
1986 Mitsubishi Starion: Holset HX35, BEP .63A/R hot side, Turbonetics T3 manifold, Magna MPI with 65mm TB, roller rockers and Screaming Banshee cam, MegaSquirt ECU, Turbosmart 38MM wastegate, TurboXS RFL blow off valve, 2.5" hard pipes, 4" *DM intercooler, SR20 aluminum radiator and fan shroud, MSD 6al and tach adapter, MSD Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires

Leesfer's Build Thread




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