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D2 Front Coilover Prep COMPLETE tutorial


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#21 TsTKl

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Posted 21 March 2012 - 02:02 AM

 Fuze, on 04 November 2011 - 01:35 PM, said:


Yes, the welding of the front D2's is "normal", they are for the Starion but you do need to attach the spindles to the lower strut bodies. They are not sold with spindles attached, and unlike other cars it's the only way to bolt them up to replace the stockers.

As far as the Ikea status quip by tsTKI, these are quality parts, each is fully tested and comes with individual test result sheet for each coilover. D2 is heavily involved in motorsports worldwide, good R&D for their products. I personally think they really make the Starion a better car with no negative impact, and are miles ahead of a strut/spring combo, no offense to anybody but I've had all the setups on my cars over the years.
The only thing I was implying is that in this case both Ikea and D2 have a pretty liberal use of the word "some" in "some assembly required". Wasn't commenting at all on quality since I don't own this product.

I would rather we had more than one option though, such as hot bits or kdw etc.
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#22 TexasQuest

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Posted 21 March 2012 - 08:14 AM

We have more than one option for full coilovers.
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

#23 TsTKl

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Posted 21 March 2012 - 07:43 PM

please elaborate then?

Ground controls are not full coilovers.
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#24 TexasQuest

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 08:09 AM

K Sport
88 Fiji Blue-Tsi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KYB's, ST springs, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, MK1 silicone hoses, hard pipes, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, SHP's, AEM wideband, AEM TruBoost
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

#25 MotoCam360

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Posted 22 March 2012 - 09:45 PM

K sport is considered by many to be essentially orange colored D2s....  Wasn't there a thread here recently stating that Tein had full coil overs for Starion?
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#26 TexasQuest

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Posted 23 March 2012 - 02:16 PM

Wrong. K Sport is a completely different company.
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Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KYB's, ST springs, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, MK1 silicone hoses, hard pipes, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, SHP's, AEM wideband, AEM TruBoost
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

#27 TsTKl

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Posted 23 March 2012 - 09:02 PM

they are made in the same factory. It is possible to be a different company, however the designs are the same. Its also possible for them to change the valving and spring rates, which would be good, however to me they are the same product. If Tein had a product out for us that would be amazing. I see nothing on google though. If they do make them I can't find anyone who sells them which is the most important part.
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#28 BOOSTED88tsi

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Posted 24 March 2012 - 03:44 AM

there was a thread awhile back posted by nudelobster i believe with the tein info in it. they were like 3500 tho or some crazy crap.
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#29 Coke

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 08:49 AM

I also see 'XYZ' brand coil overs on eBay as well.  I guess it comes down to what colors you want your coilovers to be. Hah
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#30 Fuze

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 03:32 PM

 TsTKl, on 21 March 2012 - 02:02 AM, said:

The only thing I was implying is that in this case both Ikea and D2 have a pretty liberal use of the word "some" in "some assembly required". Wasn't commenting at all on quality since I don't own this product.

I would rather we had more than one option though, such as hot bits or kdw etc.

Roger. With the 80's cars, even the ones more popular for JDM motorsports like the Corollas and older Z's, the same setup applies. Those guys cut their strut tubes and weld too, we were very late to the game.

KSport makes a setup for the Starion, and just because they come from the same factory doesn't mean it's not a different company than D2, but likely similar quality. In manufacturing, often a plant will make parts for different companies based on the customer's specs. That's just how manufactuing works, most companies don't own the tooling and equipment to manufacture everything themselves, so they have business partners.

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#31 BlackAndBoosted

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 08:35 PM

is there any info out there that explains the difference in the ksports and d2's? if the are valved differently or had different spring rates that would be good info to know.
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#32 Fuze

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Posted 21 February 2013 - 01:30 PM

 BlackAndBoosted, on 31 January 2013 - 08:35 PM, said:

is there any info out there that explains the difference in the ksports and d2's? if the are valved differently or had different spring rates that would be good info to know.

Well, both companies make many different models of coilovers, and for many cars. Street to full race. I doubt there has been a comparson written for the Starion versions, since it would require somebody to have access to both D2 and Ksport products. Other than that, you an dig on the websites and find a ton of specific info, but you'd have to do the homework. My setup came with shock dyno sheets and all that,  but to put that to the side these are "street" coilovers that are 32 way adjustable, from almost like stock to solid as a rock and everything in between.

I've seen the Ksport stuff on Forumla Drift cars, and I was BSing with a Ksport driver at Wall Speedway about the Ksport hydro ebrake and suspension in his Mustang pro drift car. He also had a set of huge Ksport calipers on the front and two sets on the back, one set for the ebrake. The parts looked like quality, for what that's worth, fit and finish. Just saying they sponsor several pro and am drift teams and that goes a long way with me. D2 is so deep into motorsports they co-sponsored a Euro touring car series and had a Mercedes race team, among many other sponsored teams.

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#33 NikoFab

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 12:39 AM

The how-to is very good information...thanks for taking the time to bring it to us!

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#34 Convette

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 01:31 AM

Yes great write up.  On a side more, don't leave more than 3 inches when you make the cut. I left 2.5" and I can still slam the car, but any more might not let you go low low.

#35 Fuze

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Posted 22 February 2013 - 02:23 PM

 Convette, on 22 February 2013 - 01:31 AM, said:

Yes great write up.  On a side more, don't leave more than 3 inches when you make the cut. I left 2.5" and I can still slam the car, but any more might not let you go low low.

I think I left about 3", you can tell from the shot. When I put it all back together, I had to raise the front a little bit, the wheels were inside the wells. Then again, you are a madman sir so you may be going lower. Really as long as there's enough for it to fit solidly I'm sure that's fine. I've seen some people almost completely cut the tube away (other cars, same setup) and that freaked me out.

You thinking of dropping in a set before the shootout?

 NikoFab, on 22 February 2013 - 12:39 AM, said:

The how-to is very good information...thanks for taking the time to bring it to us!

Nick

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Edited by Fuze, 22 February 2013 - 02:27 PM.

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#36 Skullzaflare

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 05:58 PM

 Fuze, on 22 February 2013 - 02:23 PM, said:

I think I left about 3", you can tell from the shot. When I put it all back together, I had to raise the front a little bit, the wheels were inside the wells. Then again, you are a madman sir so you may be going lower. Really as long as there's enough for it to fit solidly I'm sure that's fine. I've seen some people almost completely cut the tube away (other cars, same setup) and that freaked me out.

You thinking of dropping in a set before the shootout?



My pleasure dude.
i left 1" when i did mine, and almost maxed it when i lowered, however the greater issue was the front tires hitting the front framing lol
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#37 turbo2by911

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 01:27 PM

just like 25gconquest said, how do you know which one is "left" and which is the "right''. or does it not matter

#38 Fuze

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 01:40 PM

 turbo2by911, on 26 February 2013 - 01:27 PM, said:

just like 25gconquest said, how do you know which one is "left" and which is the "right''. or does it not matter

I'd do a quick test fit just bolting up the upper mount to make sure the strut is in the correct position. Not sure if there's a difference, either that or I just got it right without thinking. LOL

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#39 dmyers151

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 02:00 PM

I'm pretty sure the front camber plates have an "L" and "R" etched or stamped in them. The rears shouldn't make a difference as the tops are fixed position.

I should be installing mine this weekend. We left about 2-1/4" of tube, and had to press the D2 sleeve on, leaving about 3/16" of tube showing at the bottom. Tig welded half the circumference and called it good.

#40 tg118

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Posted 15 April 2013 - 02:27 PM

Big thanks to Fuze for this write-up, made it so much easier to know what to expect!!!  Fuze u must have got it Right, i went by the stickers on the fronts and apparently, where ever they are made,  US Left front is not their left \front, my  camber plates were on the wrong side :) but i didnt slam it, and got it aligned perfectly like that.... thanks again!
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