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My 2jz starquest project


nasteboyii
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My linkI ve been debating whether or not to start my thread without having alot of it done, or in random order of everything ive been doing to it. So forgive me if goes out of order or logical sequence

 

To start with this is my second starquest, which i specifically bought for a project which i believe i have more fun tinkering with them then actually playing with them which i hard to beleive. My first one i had many years ago, it was in not good condition when i got it, and i neglected it til it was not worth the fixing IMO.

 

So the whole idea was to build a fun street car/track car, alot of other projects start out this way and turn into more dedicated race cars then cars that i enjoy to drive. So my thought was the 2jz with a powerglide (i have quite a few manual cars and they can be very inconsistent at track and i feel way more maintenance to deal with, along with cost in this case. So the projected startde with a blown up car, i stripped sold as much as i could, still have stuff left from it. get rid of everything that i feel is unimportant, basically i kept lights, power windows instrument cluster stuff. no ac/heat (at least for now no heat) get rid ofall extra electric stuff. got rid of most of the wiring rewire whole car,

 

No booster, new big mastercyliner, no abs

new lines, with linelock

no emissions stuff

no factory relays/fuse link box stuff gone

no power steering

no ac

no oil cooler

basically most stock stuff is getting replaced

so first got a 2jz aristo auto setup, removed everything external i did not need. replaced all the old brittle hoses etc, first setup made a quick adapter plate o set in and temporary secure to body to locate and fix the position to make the mounts. first i used factory brackets and copied for new plate. lots of measuring and remeasuring then cut plates , tac and then make sure all is still lined up. once the mounts got done.

 

Removed everything from front of vehicle, of course front bumper section was rotted to hell, so i completely removed and made anew aluminum bumper brace, with new brackets and supports. freed up some space and alot of weight.

measured and happen to find a universal radiator that fit just were i wanted it to, so i welded side brackets and 2 threaded feet on bottom, made brace on bottom of vehicle, along with cross brace for intercooler mounting as well. massaged the opening for fan for radiator and for the upper and lower radiator ports for the hose to fit the way i wanted it to. found an intercooler core that will support my end goals that fit the size i was thinking. made threaded feet to mount on the radiator support brace. still finishing up intercooler end caps and piping as of 3/23/10 (still loading more pics)

 

of course ordered an adapter plate (ross machine ) for the 2jz to powerglide setup, very nice peace, installed and made two cross braces (to eliminate the wanting to twist the engine will want to do , basically as close to a mid plate i could do for now), also ordered a aluminum bell housing that s certified for NHRA track stuff so i dont have to run a scattershield or blanket over it (J.W. transmission) and of course i have the stock powerglide one piece case so i had to cut off the bell housing part, and grind some after the saw zaw got done with the dirty work ahaha. i have my brothers spare racing torque converter for fitment figuring out. also have stock powerglide flywheel/flex plate and still have stock flex plate, going to build a adapter peice to bolt the two together so i can still use stock starter, and don t have to have a high dollar custom flywheel made (900 dollars for a forged flywheel is a little outta my price range. for what i need right now)

i had to beat roughly 2 inchs back into the trans tunnel t get things to clear and still had to cut some of the driver side tunnel out to clear the shifter linkage stuff. This will be covered and later on probably cut out completely due to needing to fit a blanket/shield on the transmission as well for the NHRA certification stuff (that will be later down the road after i get her up and running and work out all the numerous bugs im sure to have.

this was an manual car (trans still for sale) so i made a plate to fit in stock location to bolt new shifter assembly in . made sure she fits nice and pretty in the stock location with stock plastic trim , almost like she belongs there

 

Also had the stock driveshaft modified to fit the new powerglide. basically bought a new yoke for the one end, measured sent to machine shop then the removed old yoke, cut to length and balanced for me

 

For the new mastercylinder i had to make an adapter to be able to bolt on and hold the brake pedal assembly, since the booster has studs . also had to make a shaft that attached pedal to mastercylinder.

 

I also got rid of the adapter that relocated the oil filter farther away from block. i cut the stock bolt in half and rewelded for proper length to hold the cooler directly against the block, im not using the cooler. so lines get bent so they would not hit the block

 

Of course a few other normal cancer spots i fixed a bit, lower frame rail on pass side was rotted pretty good, i put a brace over the hole, and welded in. twice the size of the hole for more support, also both side rails underneath were frame meets door jams and seem sealer area were rusted to hell both sides, so i stripped all the seam sealer, grinded and welded all new plates and then re seam sealed the area so no more rust and no water leaks, not to mention now i feel safe sitting in the seat instead of floor possible falling out of car ahahha

 

air chiseled and welded up holes on the fire wall and wheel fenders that i didnt need. also replaced rear brake cables that were seized, also repacked front wheel bearings, cleaned up all the brakes/pads/rotors. went thru and loosed, removed rethreaded/cleaned out all bolts/bolt holes that i ever planned to remove, better to brake something now when its easier to deal with, then when car is up and running . this thing is a total rust bucket, but price was right. so it is what it is

 

 

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1267387932/gallery_13048_626_32625.jpg

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1269441706/gallery_13048_626_132986.jpg

 

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1269441706/gallery_13048_626_71229.jpg

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1269441706/gallery_13048_626_45024.jpg

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1269441706/gallery_13048_626_249861.jpg

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1269441706/gallery_13048_626_12514.jpg

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1267387932/gallery_13048_626_4623.jpg

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1269441706/gallery_13048_626_47021.jpg

 

 

like i said sorry if i ramble or out of order on thought, or logic of how the car is going together, typing as i think of it, and my mind is in a thousand places as once.

 

having trouble getting picture attachments to load (well i guess i need to figure out how to resize on here. )

Help???

making an album so you look at it that way too (tons more pics there)

 

any questions or thoughts, email me or pm me

located in delaware

 

Hope you like

Dan

Edited by nasteboyii
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Ohh nice another 2j. I just love this motor. Ok so now officially I will be starting either a 2j swap 6sp or a 4g swap next year. I've been seeing to many swaps lately I'm getting jealous haha.
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the intercooler core, i found a core that fit the dimensions i had to deal with. and the power goals i may have in the future. i built the end caps, the feet to mount and brace etc. basically everything you see on this thing will be built by me unless stated elsewhere (adapterplate was bought and bell housing of course)

 

feel free any questions. and obviously i could build another one if needed ;)

 

dan

 

 

 

looks good the intercooler is that special made??? looks nice. im still saving for my 2j and 6sp so I wont post till I get something substantial

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my thoughts exactly, i really really contemplated the 4g63 setup, especially since im very familiar with them, i have an awd talon ive had for along time, and a bunch of spare parts for the 4g. i just figured initial cost would be cheaper/bang for buck on the 2jz vs the 4g i dont know why i thought that, its probably not true, figure i can 6-700 hp on the 2jz without changing internals, 4g i dont think that was possible so that s why i went this route. the 4g would be hella easier to fit thats for sure

 

dan

 

Ohh nice another 2j. I just love this motor. Ok so now officially I will be starting either a 2j swap 6sp or a 4g swap next year. I've been seeing to many swaps lately I'm getting jealous haha.

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are you talking about the bell housing made to fit the powerglide (one peice powerglide has to be cut)

or are you talking about the adapter to make the powerglide fit the 2jz block?

hell i still have to make the adapter for torque converter to fit the stock flywheel

 

???

dan

 

 

that trans adapter is a lot of work! could it be done a little easier?

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are you talking about the bell housing made to fit the powerglide (one peice powerglide has to be cut)

or are you talking about the adapter to make the powerglide fit the 2jz block?

hell i still have to make the adapter for torque converter to fit the stock flywheel

 

???

dan

 

It looks like a tremendous amount of work to adapt the trans, and with that much work , more opportunity to get it misaligned

I wonder why you wouldnt get a complete kit with the needed coupler, will you be using the stock GM converter?

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as far as the converter, i am actually using my brother spare outta his 8s tube chassis racecar. figure this will be a good start, then we can figure if its to tight or to loose for my application

then ill get ati or someone to make me a converter to my needs

 

as far as work, really the adapter plate was super easy obviously, the bell housing i got so i did not have to get a shield for nhra standards. and it fits in tighter spaces (does not take up that much room)

as far as why i didn t buy a kit. most KITS i seen (that are complete) are like 1500-3000 for a adapter plate and custom flywheel. were as all i needed was the adapter plate 300 bucks

and may cost me five at most for machinist to make the adapter for flywheel. if it turns out to be alot more then that i can always buy the 900ish dollar flywheel. which is what im trying to avoid. a penny saved can go elsewhere. i ve been down the road many times do it right the first time. may cost more money etc. im doin research now, which i have time to do. if i was in a hurry i would buy it and be done. i am building as much as i can to save some dollars were i can. the stuff that has to be perfect ill leave to the professionals

 

i figure if i can save 4-500 bucks by having a machinist make one. or even 2 for me. i can put that into the trans rebuild. so it will be able to take whatever i can throw at it later down the road. along with line lock. trans brake, etc

 

 

 

 

and of course delaware trying to represent ahahh. i knew you couldnt be to far away only takes 1hr to go from the top to bottom of the whole state ahahhaha

 

 

 

It looks like a tremendous amount of work to adapt the trans, and with that much work , more opportunity to get it misaligned

I wonder why you wouldnt get a complete kit with the needed coupler, will you be using the stock GM converter?

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here is the first pic to the fuel cell that im making. 10 gallon aluminum still going in stock location and will still have factory fill point. 2 drains out of bottom back. Will have at least 1 10an feed line. has a second one but may use that just for a drain plug. also need to make a return fitting location. have not decided that yet. and figure out a vent system too

 

also started building a catch can. ran out of gas for the tig. so got some of it tacked up. as you can see in the pic. will have 2 10s coming from valve cover. will have baffles inside. will have one 10an drain back. and 2 filters on top. going directly underneath the wiper motor between fire wall and shock tower. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1271100349/gallery_13048_626_67760.jpg

post-13048-127152510165_thumb.jpg

post-13048-127152538067_thumb.jpg

Edited by nasteboyii
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here is some thumbnails now that i figured out how to load from my computer

 

first pic is of the intercooler core,

second pic of the feet we welded on after i threaded them so i could bolt them down,

third is me taking a pic of my welder (corey) taking a pic of the intercooler down (ahahah)

fourth is one of the end caps

post-13048-127152679548_thumb.jpg

post-13048-127152680308_thumb.jpg

post-13048-127152681159_thumb.jpg

post-13048-127152682158_thumb.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

I went out and bought a core engine, a flywheel and a starter to build the crank adaptor you need, I will be using these parts plus my adaptor and then a 'star' flex plate like chryler uses to complete the kit

 

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/JZ2GMadaptor.JPG

I used aluminum just to mock up what I was looking for, working out depth for my bolt patterns and flex plate hieght

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/JZ2GMadaptor1.JPG

The real coupler will be a billet design 4320 probably heat treated to a 45 brunnel number

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/JZ2GMadaptor2.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/JZ2GMadaptor3.JPG

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/JZ2GMadaptor5.JPG

It will be stacked like a unit that uses the ring gear on the torque convertor, I originaly wanted to use a OEM Chevy flx plate so anybody could buy it anywhere, but the bolt circle wont work out between the 8 bolt crank and the 6 bolt flex plate, so it wasnt worth the effort

http://www.billsautofab.com/images/JZ2GMadaptor6.JPG

Edited by Bill Hincher
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I think I bought an exhaust off you a while back...drove down in the wrx. Youre just south of dover right?

 

If I got the right person I'd like to come check this build out sometime.

 

yup steve that is me

yea will get together when im closer to having this thing done. i still have that clutch u said u really wanted to buy was to poor :( i know that feeling hahahaha

still have some misc stuff from the car too

 

302 270 5141, is still the cell, i think i still may have your number?? what was it again

 

dan

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  • 3 weeks later...

nasteboyii I put a 17 gallon fuel cell in mine and made a sump in the front using the stock fill neck and the stock vent location with -10 feed to a areomotive a1000. Let me know if you want to check out some pics.

 

sure u can send pics here, or my email nasteboyii19943@yahoo.com

 

my cell is mostly done, just have to make mounting hardware (havent decided how to mount yet)

we modified stock filler neck, to raise up were in goes into the cell. took stock fuel level sender and made a plate to bolt into. i have a rear mounted sump setup, to 10-an. which happens to be going to a aeromotive a1000, as soon as i take the pump off my other car. i have the fuel lines ran. just have to mount pump/fuel filters. slowly but surely getting it all done

 

thanks

dan

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Here are the pics of my cell.

http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp339/vettekiller593/cell.jpghttp://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp339/vettekiller593/cell1.jpghttp://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp339/vettekiller593/cell2.jpghttp://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp339/vettekiller593/cell6.jpghttp://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp339/vettekiller593/cell4.jpghttp://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp339/vettekiller593/cell3.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

i like the pics, we pretty much built the same kinda tank, differences are yours is front facing mine is back facing, we both using same fuel pump. i cut out orignal feed fill nozzle (modified it cut ,shorted and raised, and made come thru frame rail, also cut out rear floor of trunk, that way i can raise fuel tank more, i did not like how low it was getting. i want to have as much clearance as possible for the sump setup. I like your brackets, im going to make somethign like that but i dont have those legs anymore either i also incorporated stock fuel gauge sending unit, but had to bend the arm a bit to fit into my tank. Mine i think is bout 10 gallons i cant remember what number i chose to go by. All the stuff in the pics is pretty much finished up , just need to make brackets. but been to busy with my other 2 car projects so this one gets put on hold

 

hit me up if you want to chat

dan

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  • 2 weeks later...

finally got back to working on this some more. mounted fuel cell, with 2 mounts so far, still have two more to go. hooked up return fuel line, hooked up fuel pump with filters, all lines and fittings done. and even filler neck hose, its coming along slowly.

 

started to make the mounts for catch can, no pics yet. and intake manifold is coming along more pics soon

 

 

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2114&id=100001036878703&l=ccaad976fe

since my band width is filled here, here is link to my facebook pics

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  • 1 month later...
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  • 6 months later...

New update.... Broke down and bought all the timing belt/water pump/cam/crank seals decided to do all that while ive got front end stuff outta the way..

some pics

 

All my charge pipe. throttle body. vband.. intake plenum modification done

rewire is almost done

 

Decided to take off valve covers cut/plug all the stock locations. port the 2 back ends and run to the catch can i made... and get the valve cover powder coated.. (still waiting to do that)

 

Got a new converter, need to modify alittle bit to get it the way i want it..

 

going to get a new fuel rail, and new injectors, turbo manifold and turbo... was trying to avoid doing this in the first step, i want to get it running on stock stuff...

but soon after its getting all these other mods as well

 

more pics to come

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=4581

 

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=4582

Edited by nasteboyii
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  • 2 months later...

well finally getting more posts for here, the conquest project been a slow one with me changing my mind all the time, and deciding to spend money else where, then the fuel pump i took off my other car died sitting on the conquest. so i send the aeromotive back and had it rebuild (220 bucks more i didnt plan to spend) got it back, hooked all the lines up, put water in the system (much easier to weld up leaking holes, in tank if water is in it.. ) wired up pump, turned on, found a few leaks fixed them all now fuel system side of this thing is done :)

 

Next is the turbo /manifold setup i just got... building a 4inch downpipe 2 v bands to help with easy of installation since its huge and will be a tight fit when done. more pics by end of week i hope

feed/drain lines and catch can return modified stock adapter for oil return.

 

so a little more welding , some powder coating , and assembly and she finally be ready to start this thing :/

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