derekfc Posted January 4, 2010 Report Share Posted January 4, 2010 (edited) brand new to the site. ive read a tiny bit but i dont know enough to know what to search for. please everyone give me the best bang for the buck reliability mods you know of for the engine and drive train. we dont care about horsepower since its worthless if it blows before the end of the race.. here is the car we are working with. its a non intercooled model and we know basically nothing about the car but are determined to kick a**. has a tan interior and just about everything interior wise is for sale. i may post an ad later on. thanks for all the help guys. ill keep this thread updated with our progress as we incorporate your ideas into the build. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/doriftokin/2-17.jpghttp://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/doriftokin/4-4.jpghttp://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/doriftokin/5-3.jpg edit** also we were told to look into a balance shaft eliminator kit. sounds simple enough but what is it, what does it consist of and what does it do? Edited January 4, 2010 by derekfc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Heeeeeeeeey... wanna sell those ugly a** wheels?? -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 (edited) Kinda pisses me off that you guys are just going to f*** that car up but what ever Edited January 5, 2010 by Scotty Dont Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOSTED88tsi Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 theres been two staions in past lemons. Both of them were very fast! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyW Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Kinda pisses me off that you guys are just going to f*** that car up but what ever I see it differently. Yes it will get a ding or two I'm sure but this is where these cars roots are... Racing. A LEMONS race is not a demo derby, its real racing for budget minded racers. This car would have probably been scrapped if not for this race. These cars were built for the track and that is exactly where this is going. Awesome I say! As for your question, keep the car non intercooled, less stuff to knock you out of the race. Because anyone that knows LEMONS knows finishing is key, its a looong 12 hours. A group from my SCCA club ran one this past October in a golf in OHio and had one hell of a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 Guess I didn't see it that way Andy thanks for your point of view. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekfc Posted January 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 (edited) thanks for the comments and replies. where would i go to learn about the balance shaft and removal? i am pretty sure we need a shorter chain to run just the oil pump and at least one block off plate. is there a write up or how to that im missing somewhere? thanks again for the help. also we dont plan on destroying chis car. going to do as many races as possible and try as hard as we can to turn around the thought that dsm's are bad cars to road race. Edited January 5, 2010 by derekfc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 As a Lemons competitor myself, let me welcome you to the site. Although, we run a Ford Escort. I think I pretty well have Lemons down to a educated science. Tell me about your car. Does it run well now? The thing about a having a really reliable Starion is keeping it cool. Unfortunately, the cooling system on these cars suck a big one. I would have the radiator rodded out real good, and install a 160 degree thermostat. You really can't seem to run these cars too cool, as Mitsubishi's engine control strategy dictates that 161F is warmed up, and the engine will easily attain that if you are steadily boosting the piss out of it. Speaking of boosting the piss out of it, you will want to be certain the exhaust flow is as free as possible......that will also help keep the engine temperature down, and help produce horsepower. Your balance shaft eliminator kit is just a ring that blocks an oil galley hole, a plug that screws onto the rear of the oil pump, a small sprocket, and a small chain. To use it, you have to remove the oil pan, and the oil pump, which means you will need to replace the oil pickup tube o ring. "Dad" on here sells every last part you need, you can find him at www.enginemachineservice.com/conquest Removing the oil pan is fairly straightforward, removing the frame mounts for the front sway bar allows you to pull the sway bar down enough to slide the oil pan out and do what has to be done. You know what? You will need manuals, too. Get those here: www.starquestgarage.com To have a good running car, I would also highly recommend changing the fuel injector connector pigtails. These cars tend to fry them, so spend the ten dollars and SOLDER the new ones in. Clean the terminals of the fuel injectors themselves with a nail file at the same time, make them shine. If you have any questions, please, feel free to PM me, or whatever, I will try to help you with what I can. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave-O Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 For those of you wondering, this is the same flatty I bought from HurleyTSi a few months ago. I wasn't going to do anything with the car anytime soon so I figured this would be a fitting usage of the car. She's far from pretty, even further from straight and rust-free, but she'll do the job, I guarantee that. She's in the same mechanical shape I picked her up in, very little compression on cylinders 2 and 3, and alright compression on 1 and 4. He told me the compression readings the other night were 20-0-0-30, but I don't believe them, this car runs pretty strong for being down 1-2 cylinders. BTW Derek, I've got a pair of brand new injector pigtails you can have. I might have another pair as well, off my junkyard engine's wiring harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlattopMike Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 OKSo the 1st thing you are going to need to do is replace the cracked head, if not rebuild the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoosierquest Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 I agree with tim on a good bang for you buck mod would be to open up the exhaust. even better remove the turbo and hog out where the turbo and the mani meet, and match them. That should make it a little more responsive and let it breathe better up top. The Balance shaft removal would be a good idea in a endurance race as that is one less set of bearings to worry about and less chains rolling around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mazarin Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 I remember you on 4chan. Nice to see you made it here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekfc Posted January 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 (edited) yeah we have the motor out and are in the process of tearing it down. dave i would love those injector clips, bring them by when you come to get the hatch. the readings on the comp test were low most likely because i didnt have a valve in my comp tester so we just threw one in from one of the 842 wheels i had laying around, probably couldnt hold much pressure. plans are to balance everything i can by myself with the help of a gram scale and then see what a machine shop can do about the crank since i was told we cant run the motor without balancing it and eliminating the balance shaft. hopefully its not a cracked head, that would suck badly. Edited January 14, 2010 by derekfc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 842 wheels eh... sell me the ones off that flatty... And you can easily run an engine with a BS elim and not have it re-balanced. Don't mix those rods, caps and pistons up. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyW Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 i was told we cant run the motor without balancing it and eliminating the balance shaft. Those that tell you this are full of crap. Man MANY people here including myself have ran thousands of miles on engines with removed balance shafts and no rebalancng of the engine. Espeialy when your on a strict budget for the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift1313 Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 heads arent much money. It will give you the chance to get a non-jet valve head from another 2.6l. Either a reman head or one off ebay that might need some machine work. Or you can have a cracked head fixed but the machine work will probably end up more than a reman head. New casting no jet heads are in the $250 range if i remember right and bare remans are in the $175 range. I think they key to your success will be a better radiator, mechanical fan, keeping it non IC. removing all nonessential parts like abs, ac, emissions and checking all the electricals. Wiring, grounds, fuel pump will ruin you. best of luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekfc Posted January 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 thanks for the advice.. btw. i love the fzr600's i had a 93' for a few years, its the only bike ive owned that ive missed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekfc Posted January 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 (edited) got the motor finally torn down, the head is fine and it is in fact just the head gasket so im happy with that. also. this 12a turbo is super small and the manifold has about a 4" crack in it. i hear its easy to use a 14g or 16g turbo and eclipse manifold. true? Edited January 18, 2010 by derekfc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mix_67 Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 Your going to need a conquest/starion manifold, but a good option for you would be a 14b turbo off a talon/eclipse. They are relativity cheap and spool like mad. I run one on my quest that I auto-x and it works very nicely. If you search around the forum you should find information on making the 14b work in the 12a exhaust housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drvr2 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 heads arent much money. It will give you the chance to get a non-jet valve head from another 2.6l. Either a reman head or one off ebay that might need some machine work. Or you can have a cracked head fixed but the machine work will probably end up more than a reman head. New casting no jet heads are in the $250 range if i remember right and bare remans are in the $175 range. I think they key to your success will be a better radiator, mechanical fan, keeping it non IC. removing all nonessential parts like abs, ac, emissions and checking all the electricals. Wiring, grounds, fuel pump will ruin you. best of luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drvr2 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Where did you find a head at that price. I am looking for one for a 84 starion. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drvr2 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 brand new to the site. ive read a tiny bit but i dont know enough to know what to search for. please everyone give me the best bang for the buck reliability mods you know of for the engine and drive train. we dont care about horsepower since its worthless if it blows before the end of the race.. here is the car we are working with. its a non intercooled model and we know basically nothing about the car but are determined to kick a**. has a tan interior and just about everything interior wise is for sale. i may post an ad later on. thanks for all the help guys. ill keep this thread updated with our progress as we incorporate your ideas into the build. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/doriftokin/2-17.jpghttp://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/doriftokin/4-4.jpghttp://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/doriftokin/5-3.jpg edit** also we were told to look into a balance shaft eliminator kit. sounds simple enough but what is it, what does it consist of and what does it do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drvr2 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Welcome to Lemons. I think we are the last Starion running on the west coast. It has been a great lemons car to this point. Cooling is definatly an issue with these cars. Just strip the car, put a cage in it, get some good tires and run it. If you are from the west coast maybe we will see you in Sonoma... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekfc Posted January 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 we are out of salt lake city utah. we are shooting for the may race at t-hill. hope to see you there. i may pick your brain for a few tips on making this thing last the full race. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drvr2 Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 we are out of salt lake city utah. we are shooting for the may race at t-hill. hope to see you there. i may pick your brain for a few tips on making this thing last the full race. We will be there as long as we don't stack at Sonoma. Thunderhill is a blast. Very fast track. Reno closed down so we get 2 races at Thunderhill this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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