aferraro21

Easiest way to check your cam timing with limited tools is to pull all of your spark plugs, put the trans in neutral, and keep your ignition off. Turn the motor by the crank pulley, you should hear and feel smooth compression out of the spark plug holes as the motor is being turned, it should be relatively easy to turn the motor too. If you have a compression tester use that and make sure your car falls within spec (pull the fuse for your fuel pump, with all the spark plugs pulled, test each cylinder by turning the motor with the ignition/starter). Make sure you have your mechnical/cam timing set properly before trying to diagnose anything else first, compression will immediately tell you if you need to go back and fix anything.

Intercooler has been sold.

Bump for a great intercooler.

GT28R Turbo is sold, Evolution Intercooler is still FS.

Turbo and intercooler both still for sale.

If you're pushing any more than the stock limits of boost on your car, and occasionally run the cheaper gas, keeping a cooler charge of air on any forced induction car is very important. With some basic skills, you can easily fabricate some pipes and mount to the front bumper support to make this work on your quest. This is an OE mitsubishi factory part, and can comfortably support setups well into the 350hp range. Although some people claim they push the limits of these intercoolers much further. I'm back to NA and I'm trying to get rid of a few things. I also have a GT28R Garrett ball bearing turbo for sale too. Only about 2500 miles on it. Asking $575 shipped. Great for low/mid range power, chokes out past 6500 RPM where it reaches max efficiency. It is t2 flanged on the turbine housing, so would require some modification to a starquest exhaust manifold to work properly. It has an internal wastegate, and comes with a stock t28 actuator. Watch the video of the turbo here http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k309/toekneefurareoh/363C9870-A655-445C-A153-60C456E62B99-6738-000012B083409E21_zps16bb9dc4.jpg http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k309/toekneefurareoh/0C281C66-A66B-49E4-A0A3-E60DB44209A4-6738-000012B07A5F24E6_zpsf45aec0f.jpg http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k309/toekneefurareoh/A77FCF38-E389-4CF6-89A6-2D288D061322-6738-000012B071526A87_zpsd4b9042e.jpg http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k309/toekneefurareoh/6A65351E-E80A-44F0-817A-9B449C2B20CE-6738-000012B06A46A19F_zpsb3cbdc55.jpg

Thanks for the response. This is a great solution for any only out there who is pushing the limits of their current turbos. Shoot me a PM as I'm not on to check this too much, my work schedule has been really busy.

Trying to sell some turbo bits I had from a turbo setup on my SR20. I want to sell this evolution intercooler, is in great shape, no weird bends, dents, or leaks. Solid intercooler here. A great upgrade for the Starion/Conquest, and still on OE Mitsubishi part. Looking for $125 shipped. Please send me a PM with interest. http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k309/toekneefurareoh/TonysG20/D5BAD635-BB0F-41CB-9949-F0273925E7C1-1052-000002CA25C819D0_zpsaaa0cf2d.jpg http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k309/toekneefurareoh/TonysG20/30AE7F20-2C95-4B84-A56D-C6BB11F36511-1052-000002CA2C785C73_zps2f4f4f65.jpg

I purchased an intercooler from Zack, good guy, fair price, item was as described. Good guy to work with. I think his username is zacktek, and not zacktec. Didn't want to have to start a new thread if I didn't have too. -AF

Looking to get $13,000. I have some personal reasons why I'm looking to sell it. I really like this car a lot, as I have put a lot of blood sweat and tears into builing it how I wanted. Feel free to pass this along to anyone you might know who is looking for a great sports car. This car is so solid, I'd like to see it get a good home. All the details are here... http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?listingId=33717060&searchSource=SEARCH_BY_URL&stkTyp=U Additional pictures are here... http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k309/toekneefurareoh/Tonys350z/ If you have questions my email and contact info are on there. Thanks for lookin. -Tony

Makes sense and good advice. Diagnosing where your oil burning from can be a number of things, this is definately a better explaination of how to check to see if your turbo seals are the cause. Nice post. Good luck, tell us how it goes, keep that quest alive!

I've never really messed around with the NEO, only helped people setting up SAFCII and an HKS piggy back. I have heard issues of people having problems with the NEO working on older cars, I've come across reading about people with problems on DSM forms, but like I said, never dealt with it myself. I don't think a 3"MAF converstion with translator is going to fix the problem with your piggy-back. How are you going into the ECU? Is all of your wiring correct? Also look into the NEO a little bit more, I know there are differnt modes you can put it in so that it will even function with VTEC systems on Hondas. The wrong settings for sure would cause it to act crazy. I was thinking of getting the NEO for my turbo swap, but like I said, I've heard to many problems using NEOs on OBD1 or later. Hope this helps, good luck.

Most signs of a turbo being the cause of burning oil is SHAFT PLAY. Do this quick test it will only take 20 minutes out of your day and you'll thank me. First pull the inlet boot off the front of the turbo (make sure the car is turned off). Spin the inside turbine with your finger, and on that shaft (the middle part, try to wiggle it back and forth or side to side). If you notice any play in the shaft or if the turbine isn't spinning smoothly you're probably going to need a turbo rebuild asap. Running your turbo when its running like complete junk will only lead to 1 major thing... more money out of your pocket to fix it. Second I would recommend checking the tension of the bolts on your vavle cover and oil pan. Over time your engine vibrates and those bolts work themselves loose, so get your socket bits and tighten things down, but DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN your valve cover or oil pan, I am not liable for any bolts you break from turning green and growing muscles like the hulk. Those 2 things should take you about 10 minutes, if your still burning oil you can narrow it down to 2 other things. Typically its bad vavle seals in your head, very typical of old ohv motors, or possibly rings are going bad on your pistons and oil is slipping by on your intake or exhaust strokes. Where in these 2 cases you are looking at an overhaul to fix. Not typically necessary, but will lead to premature wear of your engine if not taken care of. But not critical like the turbo recommendation I made earlier. If you're burning oil for any other reason, then you have a motor that doesn't opperate under the laws of logic. The only other reason you could be LOSING oil is because maybe you have a leak in an oil line, or somewhere around the oil pressue switch (which is usually only noticable when the car is running). Good luck.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong... It shouldn't matter which wastegate you use, as long as the both mount to your turbo correctly. Obviously each wastegate is going to have different tolerances which in return is going to affect how much boost you are going to spool before the wastegate releases the excess pressure. It shouldn't matter which one you use, but I would recommend using the wastegate that you previously were using within OEM specs of your car. Going outside those boost ranges can cause your car to potentally lean and start knocking (unless you have upgraded injectors and a piggy back system to tune... keep it OEM). Let us know how the rest of that goes, I'm betting you will notice much better response.

What a nicely built car and a great price for someone looking to buy.