Jump to content

tpoof100

Members
  • Posts

    47
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About tpoof100

  • Birthday February 20

Profile Information

  • Location
    Prior Lake, MN
  • Gender
    Male

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0
  • AIM
    none

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    55379
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1989
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Majorca Black
  • Interior Color
    Black-Tan
  • Status
    Being Modded

tpoof100's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. technology, I like the idea about hooking one up that we know it works... Let me know if when this could happen. I will make sure I'm available.
  2. LazarusTsi, its easy to set up, just match the plugs up stock red wire to the translator pink wire. You will have to trim off part of the plastic on the translator side to make it fit and you are done. there is more detailed instructions if you search in the engine mod area. the white and purple wires on the translator are not used. Otherwise follow the instructions on the translator. its explained very well. Dad, the richest I had it set to was the base knob set at about 6 clicks and the idle at 8 clicks (max rich) it brought the a/f down to around 14.5-15 and the idle kinda smoothed out. I drove once around the block and the car wouldnt accelerate with any boost. the boost gauge would level out to 0 and the car would just loose all power to accelerate only got to about 10-15 mph. And to give you a base to work off of the stock mas doesnt cause this problem and it runs normal. (a/f is good and I could run normal into a little boost)
  3. could the stock mas be telling the ISC info that the translator isn't? The intercooler and intake piping couplers were all double checked as well. Vacuum lines are tight too. The turbo is on a turbonetics log type exhaust manifold with a tial 38mm wastgate and a pyrometer between #3and #4 cylinders.
  4. Well I have completed a build this summer and am wrapping things up. I am adding the GM 3" maf w/ tranlator now and my car is running off the chart on my aem wide band (higher than 17). I tuned the translator as instructed by the manual and ended up with this... The car idles very rough (pulses up and down about 600 rpm variation) until the rpm get up to 2,000. Set the translater to fully rich witch is about 8 clicks clockwise and the a/f came down to 14.5 only. I tried driving it like this to see if that is why it wasnt working right and it would go until boost was 0 and would stumble down to idle rpm. The car runs at 13.5 a/f with the stock mas and runs great. No, stumbling occured up to 5 psi (rebuild got to keep it easy for the break in) and idled a little rough at 800 rpm. The last time I had started it the car shut off right away and the ISC just spun as the car was off???? I turned the car on and off again and the ISC still spun. I un plugged the battery and it stopped. The TB was making a spinning noise and the ISC was hot so that is giving me the impression that is shot. It wont start anymore now. I plan to replace that now, but would that cause my lean problem? I have triple checked the wiring of the new maf and translator. lights in the translator blink correctly to show its working. fuel pressure is set at 38psi. plug wires, plugs, and coil are all under 1,000 miles on them, done spring 08. I put on a aem dry flow filter on the new t3/t4 turbo. could the motor be sucking in more air than it should have? Could it be too big or flow too well? What could be causing me to run so lean? Hope you have some ideas. This is whats been done in the last 2 years and what I have to consider in this problem. 89 Blk Conquest, .040 8:1 JE pistons, non jet head, 3'' Alumi. Griffin radiator, 274 cam, 2.5'' straight exhaust, T3/T4 Garret turbo, T.T. Injectors 650cc prim. & 950cc sec., Walbro Fuel Pump, Mookeeh adj. FPR, Larger intercooler w/ 2.5'' hard pipes and a HKS type H BOV, 3†GM Maf w/ translator, AEM wideband O2, 3 wire O2 for the ECU, Rear battery relocation, GM 110 alternator and removed: coal canister, EGR, balance shaft. I added autometer boost, exhaust temp, oil pressure, and water temp gauges.
  5. After reading the instructions that came with it and the engine mods forum; I fount that the white wire is not used and the purple wire is not used. Hopefully others will agree with me. Anyone??
  6. Ok, I will be putting a new fitting in the oil pan for the drain back. Guess my only other question is: Does the return fitting in the block oil anything? Can I safely cap that and forget about it? Thanks for the help.
  7. I am finishing up a T3/T4 setup and I have a log type exhaust manifold that makes the turbo sit lower than stock. The turbo drain fitting is about 1.5" lower than the drain return thats on the passanger side of the motor just above the water pump. Is that difference something I should worry about? Is there any pressure to push the oil back into the block? Does that drain fitting serve a purpose, like oiling the timeing chain or oil pump? If it doesn't have a purpose than I could cap the fitting in the block and add a new drain line into the oil pan making it all gravity? Which will be a better route?
  8. tpoof100

    3.90's

    I have one that I am not ending up using. I would like $150 plus shipping. I am in the twin cities MN. IM me if you are interested. Its in great shape. (not installed)
  9. If he goes to a GM 110A you wont be able to plug in the stock harness. Not sure what it does but maybe somelse does. I heard you were to just run the power and ground to it, thats it. homeless2bny has the brackets you will need pre made and he can give you a number to get a rebuilt alt. GM 110A with a lifetime warenty on it. PM him the bracket will run you $50 I think. Does anyone know what the harness in the back of the stock harness does?
  10. You can get a dual row 2.5'' or 3'' griffen from Summit. about $330, You will need a welder to get mounts on it but other than that its just radiator hoses. 2.5'' will fit better for your fan.
  11. CV joints, steering box, and handles found. Any help on manifold?
  12. This is a great seller that will work with you and answer your questions. Shipped fast and had a good price on the parts I ordered.
  13. Just so no one else is confused, I do not believe a turbo and manifold by them selves will give me this kind of power... but a person has to start somewhere. I think... I have a good start on the motor and now I can start giving it some serious power. Baybe 300-350 is aiming a little high, so lets say 250-300. For my goal can I use the stock manifold? if not, who is currently making them? TEP makes one that is high priced. Its kinda a combo, I need a turbo in mind to use so I know what flange to get on the manifold. So now you know what I got and were I want to get. Now help me find a manifold. BTW: I do have a Walbro pump and a 3" MAF sensor w/ translator monitored with an AEM wideband meter
  14. I want to buy a manifold and turbo that will help me get to my 300 to 350 whp goal. I have done the upgrades as you can see on my signature. What manifold should I get? LOG... or piped... Is any members still making them? I am trying Chad. What is going to be the best turbo to get with the manifold? T3/T4, 19c, 16g external or internal waste gate? What will be the most for my money? I am now ready to buy and want everyones ideas.
×
×
  • Create New...