Jump to content

Kryten93

Members
  • Posts

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    kryten93
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Second Incarnation

Kryten93's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. found this site that shows you how to mod the 1G BOV WITHOUT crushing it. http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html it looks very easy to do as well.
  2. for some time now i have noticed the site running horribly slow.. there was only 35 users ans 20 guests and it took over 10 min to access a post. and im on a connection equal to a T3. other sites i frequent carry over 300 users at any one time with little slowdown and even carry picture servers. i know that faster servers and more bandwidth cost. but its not THAT expensive
  3. Im the guy who made the post about this mod origanally ;D anyway basically all this mod does is allows the distributor to advance at a lower rpm. and this improves the lowend throttle response of the engine. its a little hard to tell in the 5spd, well for me it was. but the autos really respond well to this mod. since they are kinda a dog off the line. just a bit of advice. if your not putting in a new distriburor you will want to tear the advance system apart and clean the top of the distributor very well. it tends to get gummed up pretty bad. for full details i have it posted on strion i-x forum http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=148 let me know if you have any questions.
  4. this stuff works great for caliper and engine parts. Â You want the high heat engine enamel.. when prepped properly it dries to a near powdercoat finish! I used this stuff on a set of calipers on my last car. countless carwashes with cuastic wheel cleaner. And It never lost its shine like other caliper paints.. and i even aplied it with a brush instead of spraying it on them! I also painted the valve cover and cross brace.. Â http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html I used DE 1632 Chrysler Industrial Red got it at Autozone for 4.99 a can ;D here are the caliper 6 months after i painted them! http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/367141/my-SE-R-03.JPG the V.C. Brace and battery hold down all painted at the same time as the calipers. http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/367141/MY-SE-R-05.JPG
  5. well i robbed the lighter spring off another distributor ;D i was informed that you can try the accel recurve kit P/N 110-31041. Or possibly the springs off a caravan or mighty max P/U. just go junkyarding at pick a part. the electronics are different but its the lighter weight spring you want. ill look into this more and get back to you about it. sorry for the confusion. Bret
  6. I got tired of my car lugging off the line, so I looked into the mechanical advance system. Some parts were rusty others all gummed up. So I removed the advance plate and took it apart. I went after it with emery cloth and never-seize compound. Start by removing the cap and rotor. then take out the small bolt holding the plate assembly it is a 8mm. Now slide the assembly out of the distributor. The springs do pop off easily just don’t lose them. And same with the retainer (Jesus Christ) clips holding the weights on. Clean the components with carb cleaner to remove any gunk build up. Then to on remove the rust on the shafts and the holes on the weights themselves. Just tear a thin strip of emery cloth and roll it up and thread it like a needle, then pull it through the hole. Make all the areas of contact rust free to allow free movement. When you reassemble the parts put a little never-seize on weight posts only. Now this is a good time to invest in a distributor curve kit. it can be found at most auto parts stores or performance parts suppliers. Its even better if you have another distributor like yours. What you want to do is replace the bigger of the two springs with one of the same size that you already have. It’s not hard to tell the one you want to replace. It has less coils and slightly thicker spring material. Once it’s all together put it back on the car. By doing this spring swap, it allows your mechanical swing out quicker. The lighter weight spring allows the advance system to engage at a lower rpm thus improving low-end and mid range power. But don’t go too lightweight, it might cause the timing to become too advanced and be harmful to your motor. I did this on mine today and  talk about a huge difference in power!!!! the butt dyno results were very impressive!! ;D But even if you do not want to mod your mechanical advance system, you should check it periodicaly to ensure it is working properly.. oil and dirt and can gum these things up in a hurry!! hope this helps Bret
  7. its a gimmic as fas as i can tell. just get a fat wire for a short bosy ground and a decent ground to the motor and your good to go.
  8. hey John, in a hatchback car like the starquest 2 subs would be overkill unless your going for some new rattles and loose fillings. . a phantom 8 is perfect for decent thump in a hatchback. the perfect place would be in the jack stand hole with carpet covering it as for the 6x9's i dont think they will fit in the rear mounting points. but stand alone boxes would work but then you lose imaging because the mid and tweat would be muffled out by the back carpet cover. now you could possibly squeeze them in next to the back seats in the wrap around pad panels. but then you lose the comfy sideways seating area for a taller person in the back, and run the risk of them becomming damaged by someone sitting against them. the amp is definately of use. but your speakers you have id say use them for something else and replace the factory pnes with aftermarkets and hook them up to that amp. if thats not enough thump add the sub. hope it helps ;D Bret
  9. well im also not very sure if the bulb thing sorks..but the intercooler fogger would be a benefit in my opinion. i did some lookingins to about the Co2 system i have this to say in its defense. pressureized Co2's changes from liquid to gas at positive 1atm is -78.5 degrees Celsius thats about -104 Fahrenheit. now thats pretty cold to me. granted there isnt much surface area to transfer heat, but we do not know just how large the unit actually is. so i dunno either i say go with the intercooler thing. me now does a deaf man hear voices in his head?
  10. just curious about this upgrade you had done cause i am thinking of going either the 16g (special one or something) or 18C or G turbo when i get mine and start the engine build. now the one you had done what was the cost on it? If you dont mind my asking. About how much, if any lag is there with this unit. Are there any manifold mods required, and lastly what kind of wastegate and boost controller are you running? im trying to get all the info i can before i get one and start the engine build on it. i want to do this one right the first time and be done with it. so gotta get them little duckies all in a row.. ya know? Thanks Me never doubt the abilty of the determined ant...
  11. another thing that i saw on one of the nissan bords i used to frequent was this little bugger. http://designengineering.com/cryo2_related_items.html or just the bulb thingy http://designengineering.com/cryo2_cryogenic_air_intake.html  It's a Co2 charged unit that fits this little slip-stream expansion bulb into the path of the intake charge.  what its suposed to do is as the liquid Co2 is fed into it it expands rapidly thus causing the bulbs temp to drop very rapidly thus causing the intake charge to noticeably drop in temp. so place it in the intake post intercooler (its just a random figure here) and with an air temp of say 175 degrees right? this thingy would drop the intake charge temp another 65ish degrees. now this is according to their website, so im just quoting their max temp difference... and they say it will work with turbo motors, and after looking at it, it could be bolted on just after or before the B.O.V. will this work here, or am i just smokin some hyped up crack about this cryo bulb thingy? more boost = more honda killing go-go juice..  if it works is it worth the 300 or so bucks they want for it... me kiwi fruit isnt just for eating it makes an excelent projectile if not a tad pricey..
×
×
  • Create New...