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Over heating??


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#1 Rapom

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 04:16 PM

This is an 89 with 116k if you were following my other threads i just put a brand new not refurbished cylinder head on with a felpro gasket set. I ALSO replaced the thermostat. I used a 180 Murray. It had a 180 in it already. Its getting hot. In town or highway makes no difference. All 3 fans work and come on as designed. The temp gauge never got to red but it was close to the line under red. I used an IR thermometer and temps i got.. 210*F on thermostat housing. 215 under thermostat. 235 on top center of radiator and 180 on lower hose. And 220 on upper hose. So far ive put the coolant system under vacuum for an extended time and replaced the radiator cap.. not sure what it could be... could i have gotten a bad thermostat? The head looked great. All coolant holes matched perfectly. Il have to check again but i set ign timing to 10deg btdc... jesus.. one thing after the next.. really love that ive overheated my brand new head and gasket.. not to the point of coolant leak or smoking but still





#2 croquest87

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 05:07 PM

Radiator is plugged?  Also did you burp your coolant system when you filled it? Shouldn't be overheating.

Edited by croquest87, 25 June 2019 - 05:09 PM.


#3 Rapom

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 05:23 PM

I did burp it.. with a funnel and later by vacuum

#4 TexasQuest

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 06:31 PM

Could still be an air pocket in there. Did you clock the thermostat the right way?
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View PostJohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

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#5 Jay40245

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 06:49 PM

The temp difference between the upper and lower hose has me wondering if you have a flow issue in the radiator. The pump pushes coolant from the bottom to the top of the radiator, so the coolant in the top hose 'should' be cooler than the coolant in the bottom hose. Yours is the opposite. Pump, rad, or t-stat. That's where I'd start if it were me. The first and cheapest thing I would to is eliminate the thermostat as the offending article. Remove it from the car and drive it. Then set it in boiling water to see if it opens at the temperature it's supposed to. If nothing changes and the thermostat passes the test, I would start to suspect the radiator

Edited by Jay40245, 25 June 2019 - 06:54 PM.


#6 Preludedude

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 07:35 PM

Id check radiator first.....I took my stock one to a shop and they fluished it and said it was good....It didnt flow well from corrosion/age and would overheat when I did my first rebuild...

I scrapped it and bought a CX Racing Radiator for $289 and never looked back...

#7 croquest87

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 08:10 PM

Cx radiator=very nice upgrade

#8 Rapom

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 08:43 PM

Thanks for the replys! So today i replaced the termostat again with another 180. Different brand. Im not sure ig i have it clocked right... i looked everywhere for instructions and nothing.. i put it in spring side down with the air valve facing the radiator. No differences.. still 3/4 on the gauge.. temps at rad top and bottom are over 210*.. thermostat hovers around 200.. the block coolant passages were squeeky clean no gunk at all anywhere when i had the old head off..

The radiator i believe is original. Its a weird copper/brass old school thing.

I dont recall having these issues before replacing head and HG... i really hope its not the head....

I guess i need to order a radiator... i just am 99% sure this wasnt an issue 5 dsys ago before the HG blew and i did the repairs.

On another note... with the AC on.. temps at the rad reach 235*!!! All 3 fans work ad designed.. still a clogged rad?


That cx radiator is now $320!!! I honestly have no problem AT ALL spending that if i knew it would fix it.. but we dont know. Could be any of the coolant hoses or passages.. i do know the heater works great and very fast! Everything i had apart including the intake were sparkling clean..

Edited by Rapom, 25 June 2019 - 08:58 PM.


#9 tsi_tom

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 09:02 PM

When you dumped the coolant what did it look like?  What does it look like when you open the radiator cap and look inside?  Can you see the tube openings?   The stock radiator should be fine.  I am  running the same factory original radiator with a stock motor.

Take a look at my radiator.  http://www.starquest...pic=135264&st=0

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#10 delayed replay

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 09:03 PM

I got a CX radiator and also replaced my primary cooling fan with one for a 99 Subaru Imprezza. There's a writeup on this website about the fan upgrade. Cured my temp issues.

Edited by delayed replay, 25 June 2019 - 09:03 PM.


#11 Rapom

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 09:10 PM

Nice build! So you had your rad rodded and all is well now?? Come to think of it.. i can see gold microscope metallic flakes floating around under the rad cap. When i drained the coolant it came out crystal clean/green. No chunks or gunks of any kind.

#12 Rapom

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 09:13 PM

Delayed reply... what was your gauge reading before and after rad replaced?

#13 ucw458

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 09:13 PM

Take your radiator to a radiator shop and ask to have it "rodded out".  They take one of the end tanks off and run a thin rod through all the tubes to clean them out and restore flow.  You can do it yourself if you are familiar with soldering pipes.  If the core is too blocked they can replace the core with one that has more capacity.  Commonly called a re-core.


These cars don't like plugged up radiators.  I've heard claims stating as little as 10% clogged will cause them to overheat.  With your fans working and getting similar temps top and bottom of the radiator I would say the radiator is clogged.  Also a lower temp thermostat can cause issues with the fuel system.  If the engine temp sensor doesn't get hot enough the car will stay in warm up mode and run rich.
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#14 Preludedude

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 09:16 PM

I removed my radiator cap while cold, and let the car idle up to operating temp....The coolant was kind of gushing/splashing out, instead of flowing smoothly through the radiator....The radiator was taking in water quicker than it could push it out....

After seeing this, I figured it was clooged badly inside, so I bought a new alum one...

#15 Preludedude

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 09:18 PM

I just re-read your bad day thread....You said temp gauge didnt go over half-way....I bet the car overheated due to the radiator in the first place...

I wouldnt trust the 30yo temp sensor anyway....

#16 ucw458

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 09:20 PM

View PostRapom, on 25 June 2019 - 09:13 PM, said:

Delayed reply... what was your gauge reading before and after rad replaced?


The dash gauge doesn't mean much.  Positions on the gauge don't equate to a specific number.  It's more of a general indicator of cold, normal, hot.


These are the temps on mine reading the temps through the standalone ECU.  With a 195 thermostat the temps spike to 195 during warmup (open loop).  Then the thermostat opens and the temp settles down to 176 and stays there.  A 195 stat creates a normal operating temp of 176.  A 180 or colder stat may create a operating temp of 160 or less which may be too cold for the ECU to go into closed loop.
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#17 tsi_tom

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Posted 25 June 2019 - 09:51 PM

View PostRapom, on 25 June 2019 - 09:10 PM, said:

Nice build! So you had your rad rodded and all is well now?? Come to think of it.. i can see gold microscope metallic flakes floating around under the rad cap. When i drained the coolant it came out crystal clean/green. No chunks or gunks of any kind.

I had dead fans and dead thermistors too.  Also I wonder if you are running lean.  I had my injectors cleaned by RC Engineering.
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#18 Dad

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Posted 26 June 2019 - 04:47 AM

Ignition timing not set correctly can cause it to overheat, you set it with a light? 10 degrees BTDC?

#19 scott87star

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Posted 26 June 2019 - 08:44 AM

Quote

The pump pushes coolant from the bottom to the top of the radiator

That would be backwards, the pump gets coolant from the bottom hose and pushes it into the block and head, FSM section 7 page 2 shows a nice diagram.

The lack of appreciable difference between the upper and lower hose means you lack flow, the lower hose should be much cooler than 180.  The radiator flows coolant and air, you say the fans are all running but if the fins are packed with dirt or other debris then you lack air flow.  Lack of coolant flow could be poor pumping or plugging of the passages either in the rad or in the block/head.  It could be a combination of both poor air and coolant flow.
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#20 jinx

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Posted 26 June 2019 - 01:17 PM

air coming off fans, thru a good radiator, will be quite warm
top radiator hose/outlet can be hot(*sometimes boiling), as well as the edge of the radiator top tank..... yet....
all over the radiator core will be cool to the touch. Impossible for motor to cool
I've had a few radiators that actually built a thin film on the metal inside, which acted as a perfect insulator,
stopping the transfer of heat. Radiator still flowed well, but worthless cooling
New radiator was the fix every time
You could find other radiators near ideal size & thickness & in/outlet for low cost on ebay




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