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Fuel pressure issues after driving 30 miles.


flatty86
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Hey Guys,

 

I’m not sure what is going on with my flatty... A few months back I bought a walbro 255 fuel pump off of eBay...After a few days i noticed the fuel pump having a loud winding sound, then after driving the car about 30 miles or so the car would start losing power like it was struggling for fuel(very faint whine when struggling for fuel),. Also while this is happening the pump winding like its straining.....So anyway i spend another 120.00 for another pump. after 2 months this one is doing the same thing.... Could I have bought a fakeboro or does this have something to do with my electrical... Also if I pull over, turn the car off and back on, i will regain full power for another 30 miles....

 

 

Where do I start as far as troubleshooting?

Edited by flatty86
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Look up on how to check if you got a fake walbro, plenty of fakes out there now.

 

You need to be doing some testing, like voltage at the pump, and PSI readings, especially when you're having an issue. Just throwing new parts at it is the wrong way to go, you need to find the cause of the issue.

 

If turning the car off, and then back on fixes the problem, it sounds like it the altitude solenoid.

Verify your MAP sensor is connected properly. The MAP sensor includes the boost solenoid/altitude solenoid, if not connected properly it will cause the ECU to read the atmospheric pressure wrong and the engine will want to die after about 2 minutes.

 

is your MAP sensor connected?? It's on the firewall and is connected by a vac line. Hang on for a pic...

http://home.comcast.net/~DriftAbility/images/Komeuppance/BoostSensor.jpg

 

If you are sure there are no boost leaks, those two sensors are integral for your car to run properly. Boost/Altitude Solenoid on the left(arrow) and the MAP sensor on the right.

 

-Robert

Every 2 minutes... it'll just crap out?? If so, it's your altitude solenoid. It's on the firewall, looks barrel shaped.

 

Let me see if I can find a pic...

 

 

Looking at the pic:

The vac line on the LEFT (passenger side) is from the intake manifold(top port above the row of 3)

Vac line on the RIGHT (Driver's side) goes to a vac hose that runs along the firewall to the passenger fender to the air can area - Or you can leave it open.

Vac line pointing DOWN (It should be pointing down, but it's not in that pic) goes to the Boost Sensor, the box thing right next to the altitude solenoid.

 

-Robert

Altitude solenoid.

 

Do you have your MAP sensor (aka Pressure Sensor, black box on the firewall above the brake booster) connected properly?? The vac line should run to the altitude sensor (aka Boost Solenoid, small black cylinder with three vac ports next to the brake booster). The altitude sensor will have a vac line that runs to the intake manifold just below the throttle body. It should be connected to a vac port closest to the firewall.

 

If you still have your stock boost gauge installed you can see if the MAP sensor is working correctly.

 

Got a pic, thanks to Couth:

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/6207/dscf00801272096.jpg

On the left (with blue spade connectors is the solenoid[substituted] and the right is the MAP sensor)

 

That is what I would rectify first. After that, you need to check to see your CTS (coolant temp sensor) is working correctly, and then do a proper TPS/ISC reset.

 

Here's the proper 86 TPS/ISC reset procedure:

http://www.starquest...showtopic=27979

 

-Robert

 

-Robert

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I had a fake walboro in my starion and it pulled that on me, i even felt the vibration in my pedals how severe it was, bosch 044 all the way, havent ever had a problem with it, but there are fakes aswell, becareful with fleabay, spend the extra few bucks and buy from reputable companies for stuff like that.
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You do not need a 044 on a stock size injector car. A wallbo 255 can supply injectors more than twice the size of stock. Did you get a counterfeit pumps? Maybe.

 

Did you replace the intake filter in the tank? Did you eliminate the factory cone filter at the pump inlet? Did you inspect the inside of the tank for carp that is clogging the in tank filter?

 

The whining is a sign the pump is cavitating from a clogged filter, or air leak in the pick up tube or hose. When you shut the car off, some of the crap falls of the filter and than it can pump some fuel again till it re clogs.

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I'll second that, your tank probably needs cleaning. Imagine you have a bunch of stuff in the tank, it gets sucked to that intake screen and clogs it. You turn the car off, the junk falls off. You start the car up again and its fine for another 30mins.
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just some history.... when I bough the car I had to drop the tank because it had been sitting and the tank was all rusty and crap was all in it.... I went through and fully cleaned the gas tank, (there was not cone filter ) and replaced all the fuel filters, I figured thats what it was th first time it started whining so i dropped the tank again to inspect it, tank was still clean. I have oitnow where i can access the pick up and retun line from the trunk withoutt pulling the tank so I will pull it out today to inspect it for trash. Edited by flatty86
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Well checked my fuel pump and it say it has a walbro stamp with made in america on it...still not sure if its the real deal... Im not sure if i should jsut drop the tank anf buy a new tank... Mines was pretty bad before i cleaned it... Edited by flatty86
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An update, ok so I pulled the sending / receiving unit.... on the filter there was small particles of rust from the tank, also when i shined a flashlight in the tank there is still particles of rust, so what i am thinking ( like you guys said) when the car is driving its sending all that crap to the filter and once the filter gets clogged its when I get the fuel issue. Now as much rust was in that tank its going to be impossible to get it out, is there any one on the forum selling a used clean tank? it will make life so much easier for me.
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